So Ive got almost 20k on my 696 thats only 15 months old.. and my clutch is starting to slip. I ride the bike pretty moderately, not too hard, but not mellow at all. I never ride the clutch either. First thing I did was check the plunger screw in the lever, to make sure there was a tiny bit of play as a very hot day can expand the fluid enough that it hinders full release of the clutch lever. It was all fine. Does the clutch pack really go out at 20k?? I did a search on clutch life and Im very glad I found someone's write up on correcting a mis-torqued clutch nut. I'll check this in the near future, but if the life of a wet clutch really is 20k then I may as well just replace the clutch pack and make sure the nut is torqued correctly.
It is an APTC clutch too, so how does that factor in clutch life? Ive never activated it at all, at least I dont think. Ive heard that theres a specific feel and sound to a slipper going off, and Ive never experienced it.
thanks.. Im a bit worried because I read the post about a destroyed motor as a result of a clutch nut backing out.. :o
***Update***
Well, not really much to say, but I went ahead and changed out the clutch discs myself. To sum it up.. It's pretty easy. As long as you don't F*** up with torque specs. More below..
Clutch life varies with every bike/rider and the type of riding (city/country/track) they do.
If you haven't changed oil recently and noticed the slipping I'd say it's possible yours is done.
A wet clutch done at 20K? Really? Wow.
The funny thing is I noticed it after I changed my oil. And I dont use anything with friction modifiers, either.
So, should I stick with factory, or whats the consensus with Barnett clutch kits? Are there any other good aftermarket kits that wont break the bank like (Im assuming) a factory kit?
Mine is doing the same thing. Also an APTC wet. Shell 20/50 oil.
20k miles, but I use mine to smooth things out in slow traffic.
I'm having it replaced, just to be on the safe side before this summer's long rides.
I will have my dealer check the torque issue and will not pay if it's undertorqued.
I think my clutch pack incl springs costs about $300 - 350 plus two hours labor, but don't quote me on that.
I just got off the phone with Beverly Hills Ducati.. yep ^^^ I got quoted 290 + tax to 318. I thought about getting Barnett, but noone seems to have had good experience after I searched..
CairnsDuc's post on retorquing the nut is awesome.. I'll use this and the factory manual to do my own when I get the pack next week..
Isnt it as easy as dropping the oil, removing side cover, replace plates and put gasket on, clsoe it, and let the gasket cure unless ur using paper, then fill her back up? 2hours????
Quote from: He Man on May 12, 2010, 10:56:14 AM
Isnt it as easy as dropping the oil, removing side cover, replace plates and put gasket on, clsoe it, and let the gasket cure unless ur using paper, then fill her back up? 2hours????
It's not like they're on the clock while working ;)
(a friendly work environment includes coffee, toilet, texting, talking amongst themselves/me, looking for tools, cleaning off old gasket, checking the torque values because it's been a while since they did an APTC and won't trust that I've got it right, wondering if the springs they ordered are really the correct ones, what was the torque values for APTC springs again, helping their coworker who just stripped a rotor bolt when taking mine off, figuring out if I should pay full price for new oil or not, answering wife who insists he's picking up the kids today..... it all adds up.... in this case to two hours)
8)
Seriously, it doesn't sound unfair to me.
Quote from: animatronik on May 12, 2010, 10:26:04 AM
CairnsDuc's post on retorquing the nut is awesome..
For my own boredom and failure at using the search tool... could you provide a link to the post you're talking about? Thanks!
Quote from: He Man on May 12, 2010, 10:56:14 AM
Isnt it as easy as dropping the oil, removing side cover, replace plates and put gasket on, clsoe it, and let the gasket cure unless ur using paper, then fill her back up? 2hours????
Next time you do plates on an APTC bike, time yourself.
And remember, if it leaks or doesn't work right, you get to re-do it for *free*.
Quote from: Amlethae on May 12, 2010, 12:21:08 PM
For my own boredom and failure at using the search tool... could you provide a link to the post you're talking about? Thanks!
Sure.
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=31110.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=31110.0)
Quote from: animatronik on May 12, 2010, 08:44:57 AM
The funny thing is I noticed it after I changed my oil. And I dont use anything with friction modifiers, either.
So, should I stick with factory, or whats the consensus with Barnett clutch kits? Are there any other good aftermarket kits that wont break the bank like (Im assuming) a factory kit?
The APTC's have been known to be very sensitive to what oil is run. I went through this quite often with my 620 before I finaly just got rid of the APTC
So I went ahead and changed out the clutch discs in my 696. Its like a night and day difference. I hadn't realized that the slippage was that bad. The install was very very easy, especially if you buy a clutch cover gasket from CA-cycleworks. That way you dont have to mess with any RTV goop. I hadn't really documented how I did it, since Im just a regular guy following instructions from the shop manual/just having a go at it. But I did snap a few pics of a few things I did along the way that helped make things a bit easier. I also wanted to make note of one thing NOT to do when performing a clutch change..
Heres the drum with the plates, hub and pressure plate off..
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad161/asairin/IMG00017-20100614-1344.jpg)
Can't take credit for this idea.. Someone else had this idea on this board (forgot the name)..
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad161/asairin/IMG00018-20100614-1345.jpg)
Really, the only PITA of this process is cleaning the old gasket material off.. I used a piece of scotchbrite dipped in a bit of Kerosene.. Worked nicely.
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad161/asairin/IMG00020-20100614-1346.jpg)
After youve lined up all the alternating friction and drive plates, you slide the hub on over it. You have to jiggle the hub to get it through all the teeth before you bolt the pressure plate back on. This could be a pain. So I just took the pressure plate and fit it on the hub backwards to use as a tool. This made it easier to jiggle the hub through all the plates, firmly sandwiching them together.
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad161/asairin/IMG00022-20100614-1420.jpg)
Now.. Here's where I F'ed up royally.. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. picture says all. It didnt take much pressure to snap the head off.
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad161/asairin/IMG00023-20100614-1436.jpg)
I used a crappy old cheap torque wrench. My brain was on autopilot when I did this, so I didnt realize that the lower values on it werent accurate at all.. I just kept torquing, waiting for the "click" of the 5lbs/sqft. The sad thing is, I knew that 5lb is barely hand tight. This entire job would have taken me all of 1.5 hours if I didnt make this boneheaded mistake. Bike ride to Home depot to buy 6x 6x16mm hex bolts, an easyout, and a centerpunch cost me 20 bux and an extra 2 hours.
Anyways, after I got it all back together, I filled it back up with oil and started it up. Test rode it. It was very grabby at first, and gearchanges were difficult. After about a mile, the plates settled in and it shifted fine.
So searching brought me to this thread. I have an '06 S2R and just hit 31k. I noticed my clutch slipping a couple times at highway speed when accelerating to pass traffic. It doesn't happen all the time but I'm assuming it's the clutch because of the mileage. I bought the OEM clutch pack (190.2.016.1A) and I'm searching threads on how to replace it.
Is there a specific order of how the friction plates and steel plates are installed if all the plates are new?
I also found the "How to: Check Wet Clutch Securing Nut" thread for reference.
I stacked mine as shown in the pic (outside on the right).
BK
(http://i45.tinypic.com/29dhk7s.jpg)
Thanks for the pic BK_856er. Changing the clutch was easier than I thought. I think the hardest part was keeping the ca-cycleworks gasket lined up while reinstalling the clutch cover. Oh and the fact that I had 11 drive plates and 11 friction plates in the kit, wondering why I had one drive plate left over. (So yes, just like the pic there's only 10 drive plates used).
Looking at the old friction plates with 31k miles on it, they didn't look that worn out ???. Although one of the drive plates was scorched and a bit blued. So yeah I figured it was all apart, might as well put the new parts in. I was super careful with the pressure plate bolts too. It was a little intimidating for my first clutch change, but thanks to DMF and everyone here things went smoothly.
Took it out for a test ride and everything shifted/felt fine.
Thanks [thumbsup]
do you soak the plates before instaling them? [bacon]
Quote from: atomic410 on July 12, 2012, 09:08:39 AM
do you soak the plates before instaling them? [bacon]
You should...
Soak them in what?
oil, but for how long? i've done this for some bikes (R6) but not others (yz450f) and it always seemed to end up the same. but if they say soak i'll soak.[bacon]
Oh, so since the slipper runs in oil soaking them lets them get ready to be used when they get put in.
Or something like that!
Thanks