2000 m900ie rebuild.
It took me a full day and throwing the vaccum bleeder across the garage to get the brakes and clutch filled up and bled.
the problem now is that the clutch isn't engaging properly. When I roll the bike around, it rolls in any gear without catching when I let the clutch lever out. I'm stumped and just don't have the mechanical knowledge to be able to figure it out.
The bike has crg levers btw and there isn't any play and the pull is very tight.............much harder than the stock lever on my 2001 900.
the clutch slave cylinder is stock, no leaks and when I took it apart and the rubber thingy out.......everything looked to be in good shape. The push rod also looks to be in good shape and the bearing on the right side on the clutch plate moves freely.
any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Did you remove and re-install the clutch pack?
Quote from: 1KDS on May 16, 2010, 10:27:33 AM
Did you remove and re-install the clutch pack?
no.......I was kinda hoping I wouldn't have to.
There are different length push rods.
Sounds like yours is too long for the combination you're using.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 16, 2010, 03:12:25 PM
There are different length push rods.
Sounds like yours is too long for the combination you're using.
too long for the crg levers? ..........because everything else is stock. If that's the issue, I would actually be relieved.
Did you remove the pressure plate to check the bearing? There is a small socket sort of thing that seats into the bearing and the push rod fits into that. You may have that hung up
Quote from: Dan on May 16, 2010, 04:14:00 PM
Did you remove the pressure plate to check the bearing? There is a small socket sort of thing that seats into the bearing and the push rod fits into that. You may have that hung up
I did, and the bearing moved freely, but perhaps I did something when I put it back together. Tomorrow I will pull the pressure plate off again and see if I did something.
Isn't there an indexing punch mark on the inside edge of the pressure plate that gets aligned to a hash-mark on the basket?
It sounds like your pressure plate isn't fully seated on the hub splines and you have bled the clutch slave to take up the additional slack left by the un-seated clutch plate
Quote from: pitbull on May 16, 2010, 03:36:05 PM
too long for the crg levers? ..........because everything else is stock. If that's the issue, I would actually be relieved.
I wasn't aware everything was stock. You mentioned a rebuild.
RAT may be on to something as well as Dan.
thanks everyone......... at least I now have some ideas on things to chase down here. I will get to it today
Quote from: ducpainter on May 17, 2010, 02:35:03 AM
I wasn't aware everything was stock. You mentioned a rebuild.
RAT may be on to something as well as Dan.
sorry...... it's a rebuild from a crashed bike.........so much of it is stock or been replaced with stock parts. The clutch from the master cylinder all the way down to through the slave cylinder was one of the few things that wasn't damaged.
I want to get this thing done so I can post a thread to explain to everyone why a mechanical retard should probably avoid attempting to rebuild a crashed bike for their significant other.
Resolved!
It was the adjustment screw on the crg lever. I tightened it in a little which gave more play in the lever and voila.......engagement.
my tiny little brain can't understand why, so if someone feels like explaning it to me, I'd be happy to hear it.
If there is no free play when the clutch lever is released the master cylinder will not allow fluid back into the reservoir properly since the compensating (bleed) port is blocked. You need about 1.5 mm free play. The screw you turned is for adjusting the free play.
thanks..........that makes sense
i have just acquired a monster s2r 800 and also have a TL1000s. to say there is a difference in clutch actuating is a massive understetement lol
anyway like pitbull i have absolutely no clutch play and the clutch bites at the full extension of the lever, i want to adjust this and cant see anywhere to achieve this. the bike is original with only 3400 km on it, is there anyway, screw adjustment etc on it if so where?
thanks guys in advance
Don't use the adjustment screw to achieve another engagement point; you'll end up with the same problem as the OP. Get adjustable levers if you want to change the engagement point. Although it will always stay at the end of the travel (inherent to the APTC clutch I think, although the M1100 also has this without the APTC clutch) but at least you can adjust the endpoint of the lever travel.