Sorry for the Xpost, I accidentally posted this in the Tutorial Forum, I meant to post it in Tech - mods please merge/delete the other thread
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=38646.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=38646.0)
I searched and couldn't find any
Thanks, it's an '02 620 Dark.
Clutch reservior was low a few weeks ago and I tried to fill it up, but ended up effing it up completely it seems. Now the clutch doesn't work at all. So I need to bleed
how did you make the beast with two backs up filling the cup?
do a search theres plenty of threads on how to bleed your clutch. youll find a lot of pictorials via google.
I replaced my clutch line recently, as the old one was weeping. I found the procedure to be time consuming but not particularly difficult. I started by draining as much of the old fluid out as possible, by putting a piece of 6mm clear tube on the bleed nipple, with the other end in a cup. I just opened the nipple a quarter turn (8mm spanner) and pumped on the lever until no more fluid came out. Then I replaced the line (13mm spanner), cleaned the remaining fluid out of the reservoir with a cloth, and gave the bike a bit of a wash where fluid had inevitably spilled when removing the line.
To recharge it, I just filled the reservoir with fresh fluid, opened the nipple, and pumped carefully on the lever (it sprays out of the reservoir if you pump too hard) until fluid started coming out the bleed nipple again. Then I left it for an hour and made myself a cuppa while I waited for bubbles to work their way out.
The process of bleeding is simple - with the tube on the nipple, pump the lever three or four times and then hold it in against the bar. This pressurises the system. Then just crack open the nipple a tiny bit. fluid and bubbles will come out. Close the nipple before pressure is lost, and repeat the process until there's no more bubbles. Check the reservoir level often, and be careful not to spray fluid from the reservoir. I just put the cap in place loosely while I was bleeding.
With mine, I found that one session of bleeding didn't completely work the air out, so I left the bike overnight with the clutch lever held against the bars using an old pushbike toe strap, and bled it again in the morning. Now it's as good as new :)
thanks suzj, I spent a good amount of hours trying this and a few other methods this weekend.....no success. I suck
little trick i've learned, if you have any large GLASS bottles, run your hose from your bleeder nipple into one of those. i use a san pellegrino bottle, i like to keep it italian ;D
it just makes it easier.. the bottle doesn't get pulled over by the hose and stuff.
You also want the master reasonably level.
It can take hours. It took me 1.5 bottles of fluid before finding resistance. Keep at it.
mitt
So out of sheer desperation and frustration I went back at it for a third time two nights again and
WOOOOHHOOOOO!!!!
IT FREAKING WORKED!!!!!!
I started noticing some pressure on the clutch and I was able to ride it around the block, I noticed it was still not all the way right (not enough resistance)
So I tied the clutch to the handle bar for a day and PRESTO!!
It works!!!
I cannot tell you how incredibly rewarding it feels to get this done....THANKS A LOT to all!!
I let mine sit over night as well, then came back to it with a new attitude. I swear letting it just sit helped the air find its way up to the reservoir, but it was probably just mental.
mitt
errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
let it sit 2 days clamped.. clutch still won't work.
any advice on getting the damn thing to bleed completely?
if you have any way to get to an air compressor,
http://www.wayfair.com/PBT-USA-Speedyvac-Brake-Bleeder-70850-ZYT1006.html?refid=GPA49-ZYT1006&gclid=CMbkhoyh_q8CFagbQgod9C8fTw (http://www.wayfair.com/PBT-USA-Speedyvac-Brake-Bleeder-70850-ZYT1006.html?refid=GPA49-ZYT1006&gclid=CMbkhoyh_q8CFagbQgod9C8fTw)
turns it into a 5 minute job.
if not, just keep at it. try putting your fluid in the freezer, the extra viscosity pulls the bubbles out a bit better
You can also try removing the slave and carefully pushing the piston back in it's bore. Make sure there is enough room in the reservoir for the returning fluid.
You can pick up a bleeder at Harbor freight for usually $15 I have it and it works fine.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html)
muth*RF$*%er cannot get this clutch working.
FINALLY...
A MityVac is a priceless investment. I have remote rez pumps so I can take the hose off and suck it up through the whole clutch line straight from the bottle through a short hose when it comes time for fluid changes. The way I do it is since the short hose will have a little bit of air in it from the bottle, while I'm pumping I get to the air bubbles and I know that I'm to the fresh fluid. Same thing with the front brake. Then after hooking the rez back up and filling it with fluid, I use a pair of needlenose and gently pinch the hose to drive the air out which in turn sucks the fluid back it.
I glazed over most of your posts, but I used said Harbor Freight pump and a lot of spare fluid. What the hell. It's like $5 a bottle, right?
This is when I replaced my master, so keep in mind it was a totally dry system at the time. At first I tried the normal squeeze lever, loosen valve, tighten valve, release lever. The problem is that your clutch master moves so much less fluid than your brakes that it just took too long. After I got the pump, I put a touch of fluid in the pump tank and attached it to the slave cylinder bleeder valve. Then I yanked the remove reservoir from the master cylinder and put a 6 or so inch tube directly from the top of the master into a fresh bottle of fluid and just started pumping.
This way, you're basically pulling clean fluid into a clean system with little to no risk of air contamination. I think I did let some in when I put the remote reservoir back on, but once the system is 99% bled the bubbles come out much more easily. Food for thought.
Agreed. That's a good way to do it. I've had better luck sucking fluid the other way though, from the bleeder to the pump. Air goes up so I suppose that makes more sense to me.
When bleeding brakes and clutch, I "gravity bleed" mine:
1) Open the master cylinder and take out the old fluid using a turkey baster. Be careful not to take out too much so that air would not get in. (I usually take out fluid close to but not the bottom of the container.)
2) Fill the master with new fluid.
3) Insert the appropriate clear tube to the slave cylinder's bleed nipple and attach it to a plastic container for draining.
4) Open up the bleed nipple until fluid starts to come out.
5) Monitor the master cylinder and add more fluid while the fluid level goes down.
Since you are not pumping the levers, this could take some time, but be patient. Anyway, this worked for me on my car (a trick I learned from a mechanic on a car enthusiast site) and did the same on the bike. Seems to be working fine. Your mileage may vary. Good luck.
honestly, I think what took me so long was having ridden the ST with the dry clutch the day before.
Such a different feel, I couldn't remember what the Monster clutch should feel like when working right.
So I probably removed the air the first time or so and then kept pulling fluid.