No not my penis. I finally gained the courage to do the tail chop along with making my own brackets instead of paying $120+ shipping. I'll post pic's later. Before I stared this, I drove into a ditch(long story-no damage except for funny noise). I also shortened the wires to the tail light and signals. I'm pretty good at soldering so I was not concerned. Bottom line is now my front brake does not activate the brake light. My tail light is burnt, probably due to smaking it around. I am not able to start it due to no oil cuz I pulled the left cover and did not have a new filter nor oil. Question is, when you turn the switch to the on position, all lights/ signals should work yes? And the fuses control both brake levers yes? The tail light is really a piece of work. I cant believe they designed it that way, with those two little copper tabs that if not perfectly positioned, wont make contact. How would I go about checking the front switch?
Key on, all lights and signals should work.
Have you replaced the bulb?
Does your rear brake activate the brake light?
One fuse covers the brake light, and more.
Any chance you touched wires and fryed your fuse , did this on my sons bike when doing a tail tidy .
The brake light works when you apply the rear? If so, it is either the front switch, connectors, switch adjustment or associated wiring. Follow the wires from the switch to the connectors. Make sure the connection is good. Lights? Bingo! Disconnect them. Jump the wires going to the rear of the bike Turn the key on. Lights? The problem is in front of the connection. Try adjusting the switch first.
I pulled the fairing, head light and instruments, traced the switch to the "bullet" connectors, and tried to pull them apart. They did not want to, so i pushed them back together. Hit the switch and light works. Seems as thought something was pinched maybe. All is good for now, just have to get oil and filter. Then I will be able to see if something is still up with the shifter. My guess is that the case will have to be split. Maybe a good opportunity to lighten the fly wheel.
Those bullet connectors by the head tube are a common failure point, either from coming apart or corroding. It's worth it to pull them apart, crimp the female end a little tighter for security, and then grease them and re-assemble.
Scott
Bike is still making squeal noise on decel, and sputters some on accel. When I went down it was really light, nothing broken and only moderate scratches. I pulled the left case and nothing visable. Its it possible that I bent a valve? The crash did kill the engine. When idling, I think its ok, but when I roll the throttle and let go, it make almost like a "somethings tooooo tight sound. (could the belts have tightened?) This happens with the clutch engaged and disengaged. The major contact was alternator side low on the case. I'm afriad to ride it, mostly cuz when I took it around the block, it wanted to die. I cant believe that a simple little laydown is going to cost me big $.