Ducati Monster Forum

Hey guys,

After a phonecall to my local Ducati confirmed that they'd have a nice new replacement for my old, beat-up tank pad. I followed the internets advice and went at it with a hairdryer and some WD40. And just as the internets said it would, the tank pad came off, the problem is, the little bits of superglue holding it on there did not. :(

'That's okay' I'll just fork out the extra for Ducati's replacement, it'll cover all that unsightly glue. A short ride later and I'm told 'whoops! we don't have that style of tank pad'.

So now I'm in a spot of bother, my tank looks far worse than it did with the worn-down/torn-up tank pad, and I can't find a replacement that will cover the glue marks left by the previous one.

Here's what the tank pad I had on the bike looked like:

(http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/9352/tankpad.jpg)

It was quite a wide, solid foam pad - this renders every slinky looking contemporary tank pad I've seen unusable, as they don't cover the glue marks properly.

So I'm wondering if anyone knows where I might be able to find a replacement tank pad of the same style?

Alternatively (and I suspect the most likely option) I'll have to pick up some high-density foam, cut it to the shape I need, and fix it myself.

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? It'd be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Mark

Try this one from Monster Parts:
http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/TANKSLAPPER3M/Protection/TANKSLAPPER3M.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/TANKSLAPPER3M/Protection/TANKSLAPPER3M.html)

Go to a panel beater and get some 'prepsol' Ive never seen a glue it would not remove. It wont hurt your paint. May take a while...

looks like your tank is clearcoated. 

I would use some zippo lighter fluid to take off the adhesive.

Goo Gone which can be found at WalMart and you're all set

Really!?!  :o

Yep :( looks like the owner before me must have used superglue to stick the pad down when the edges lost their original adhesion.

I went to a panel beater down the road and we had a go at it with Prepsol, but no luck, the superglue isn't going anywhere.

Rockaduc, the clear pads will show the remaining bits of glue/pad I'm afraid, so that won't work. I just noticed the "Gripster" pads though, that might do the job. I'll have to find out the dimensions.

This might be BS, but if it doesn't work, you could just use them in the kitchen after...

http://ezinearticles.com/comment.php?How-to-Get-Super-Glue-Off-a-Car&id=136833 (http://ezinearticles.com/comment.php?How-to-Get-Super-Glue-Off-a-Car&id=136833)
(http://scrapetv.com/News/News%20Pages/usa/images-2/mr-clean-magic-eraser.jpg)

I'd test it somewhere out of site first...

I have an idea, but it's not for the faint of heart and may damage the finish more if the user isn't skilled.

Ask your body guy if he has a nib file. Cyanoacrylates, super glues, don't penetrate too much. If he can nib it off and then give it a scuff and buff you should be OK.

We had some of those in the kitchen already! I tried it out... and got nada. :( it didn't do a thing. That superglue could easily have been there almost a decade now, it's rock solid. Looks like I'm going to have to gently sand it down and I'm get something like the Techspec Gripster 'kit' from which I'll cut out an appropriate shape. I'm going to a Clark Rubber store to see if they have anything that'll do the trick, otherwise it's $65 for the damn Gripster kit.

God this has turned out to be a nightmare.

Listen to DP's suggestion:

http://www.eastwood.com/painters-nib-file-fine.html (http://www.eastwood.com/painters-nib-file-fine.html)

No one listens to me. ;D

:p How would the nib file differ from just carefully sanding it down?

Maybe this will cover up the mess:

http://www.shift-tech-carbon.com/onlineshop/product_info.php?info=p157_TANK-PAD-MONSTER.html (http://www.shift-tech-carbon.com/onlineshop/product_info.php?info=p157_TANK-PAD-MONSTER.html)
(http://www.shift-tech-carbon.com/onlineshop/images/product_images/info_images/157_0.jpg)

I think it might be a bit short to cover everything. :(

I've picked up a sheet of high-density 3mm foam with adhesive backing, going to attempt cutting out the tank pad shape myself and see how that works, the end result should be pretty similar to the original pad that was on there (and the foam only cost $7.95!)

The cyanoacrylate is very hard. The grit paper used on a clear coat won't level sufficiently. It rides up and over the defect.

I was just reading an article of all the magical powers of vinegar and one was removing adhesives by soaking a towel in vinegar and placing on whatever overnight and should come off. What that will do to paint...beats me.

Listen to Ducpainter - don't just rub it back with anything flexible, as the superglue spots are likely harder than the clearcoat, so you'll only go through the clear.

Use a nib file - I've also been known to use a nail file occasionally for this sort of thing - they also work well as backings for wet & dry.

Once you've removed the superglue, any damage to the clearcoat can be buffed out.

If you do use a nib file you will need to sand lightly with 2000 before buffing.