Ducati Monster Forum

Edit*

Special thanks to ungeheuer for providing a bunch of useful tips and pointers for this install. I probably pm'd him a hundred times.   [beer]

OK, below are the photos after the install taken at night with a shitty camera I'll get better ones up during the day time.

For anyone looking to do this mod on their 696/1100 with the kit I pieced together I'll give a brief overview of the details.
Parts purchased
speedymoto top triple, Woodcraft 3" rise clipons, coffin reservoir spacers (not needed on 1100)

With these three items there is absolutely NO fabrication or modification necessary to complete the install (*necessary to use spacers to point the headlight at the correct height). It is essentially a bolt on install that can be completed with basic hand tools. I can only assume that with a stock top triple the install would be even easier not requiring any modification at all. However the stock triple had the headlight mounted about 1/2" higher and IMHO the speedymoto piece is pure sex.

My steering stops were lengthened by 1 full turn from stock which is a negligible adjustment, I couldn't tell the difference.  
The sweepback pictured is the maximum I can obtain without sacrificing any more than 1 turn of the steering stops and with the clipons mounted at the highest point.
The headlight bolted right back on and had no issuses with contacting the bars as pictured.
Hand position is about 2.5" lower than the stock bar height at the highest position. On the 45 minute ride I took yesterday I found the riding position to be extremely comfortable (I am 5' 8"). The sweep and height is perfect for me and takes pressure off my wrists.

Let me know if you have any questions about the install.
The pictures seem to greatly exaggerate the height of the gauge pod. In person the angle of the bars match that of the pod and create a nice uniform look to the front of the bike. I prefer it to lowering the unit.

(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0087.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0091.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0092.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0089.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0094.jpg)
bad photo...(iz took this)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/DSC_0093.jpg)

In order to point the headlight properly you will need to extend the spacer on the lower portion of the headlight.
Needed:
2x threaded coupler 8x1.0
2x threaded rod 8x1.0
Thread the end with the extension into the headlight.
end result is this:
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/photo.jpg)

The side mount Speedymoto clip-ons are difficult to fit on bikes with wide tanks--as it does limit the steering lock to lock.
We use front mounts in most cases to eliminate that problem. It is only on bikes that have protrudung ears on the triple clamp where a front mount would otherwise mount up- that require the use of a side mount clip-on.

-M

So on the 696 which has a very wide tank I would benefit more from the front mount style woodcraft clipons. They would allow the most problem free install and greatest turning radius compared to the side mount tallboys.

I know it's a fairly large undertaking involving lowering the headlight unit and bumping it out in order to allow for breathing room for the clipons. I'm just trying to figure out which will work best.

Keeping the stock triple will probably complicate the install. Being thicker than the speedymoto top triple it pushes the clipons down a bit. Decisions Decisions...

I have a set of Ducati Performance Clips with a rise that will fit as well. they are made for the Sport 1000.

http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39206.msg696686#msg696686 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39206.msg696686#msg696686)

Alrighty.... I have zero experience with Woodcraft.  But you've done your homework and already know that I've tried both Speedymoto Tallboys (on M696) and Swatts (both 2.5" and 3.5" rise) on M1100.   For the purpose of clipons M696 and M1100 are the same thing.  Here's my thoughts on your thoughts:

I think on M696 this would be a true statement.  Front(ish)  mount better than side mount for sure.

Also true.  I believe its a much less hasslesome venture if you replace the stock top triple with Speedymoto's offering.

Not such a large job really, once you commit to the Speedymoto top triple the slight but necessary repositioning of the headlight assembly is pretty straightforward.

IMHO I'd avoid Speedymoto's Tallboys for your M696 application, although they are indeed cool to behold and beautifully made.

Now that Swatt is no more, if I was in your position I'd go for the Woodcraft 3".....  but you might wanna give some thought to Raux's DP sport 1000 clipons.......  (Disclaimer: I have no experience with those clipons either, I just think they look nice and being front mount should, maybe, kinda work out alright too).  How much rise do they offer Raux?

2.5 inches from the top of the ring to the bottom of the bar.

also, i bet these would fit the stock triple if you dont want to jump into a new triple right away.

Off to work, will do some more digging after I get home. I am definitely considering Raux's DP clipons.

If I were to get the new Woodcraft's drilling a hole for controls is fairly simple correct? Just make sure the controls are squared up the way you want.

Yup. Same whatever clipons you go for mate.  Measure many times, drill just once  [thumbsup]

If you decide to replace your top triple take extreme care not to damage the steering lock mechanism (ask me how I know).  PM me if you're going this route.

Decided to go with the woodcrafts just because they have a black anodized bracket.  ;D

Waiting on the Top triple, speedymoto expects them to be in stock around mid next week through motowheels.

It's all falling together!!! Now I need to buy the spacers through monsterparts and hope that the install goes well.

The most difficult part appears to be fabricating the little brackets to lower the headlight. Other than that it's a fairly straightforward install.

You dont need to make a bracket to lower the headlight.  When you get your Speedy top triple you'll see that  the headlight mounting points force the headlight to be slightly lower and slightly further forward than stock (we're talking.... 5mm?... cant remember but its not much).... 

How tall are the fork clamps on the woodcraft clipons?  I am thinking about using them above the tripple on my SBK fork conversion, want to try to get an idea if they will fit

guess who's bike is in the top picture? ;D
BGB

hopefully my set will be here early this week and I'll measure them for you, if no one has answered before.

Haha, you're a real celeb!!!


Which height did you do with? The way I see it get the tallest set 3" you can always lower them but you can't raise a 2" as high.

Assuming you ordered directly from woodcraft how long from order to your estimated delivery? Hopefully not weeks.

I just ordered the woodcraft's with a 2.5" rise for my bike now that I have to go up to 53mm(1098 fork upgrade!!)..... If all goes well, my bike should be back together next weekend with some pics with them on

I got the zero rise. I expect to be able to go above the triple clamp but if not, I'll be in a true superbike position ;)

this all sounds awesome, pics when finished! [popcorn]

Even though the bike is not finished please install and snap some photos. I really want to see how these would look. I am dead set on Woodcrafts but I cant decide which height to go with. zero rise 1" 2" 3"....

I may not be a bike guru but couldn't you just slide your triple assembly down a bit to fit the clip-ons above the triple if necessary?

if i dont have enough fork above the top triple with the correct geometry i have to go below the fork. you can't move the triple and the geometry is more important than the clip on position.

Prior to doing fork swap, I had 2" rise with my clipons...

This still felt pretty aggressive, but comfortable(me being 6"). I only noticed discomfort while riding down steep mountains from constantly being pushed onto bars. I went with the slightly highr 2.5" rise just for a tad bit more comfortable position....

Here is a top pic with the 2" rise

(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/bsurjan/007-1.jpg)

and a side pic

(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/bsurjan/008-1.jpg)

Great thanks. 

Two questions,
Do the bars still fit into the intakes on the tank maximizing your turning radius (with which height bar)? If not how much radius did you lose?

Compared to stock mounting position above the stock headlight about how much lower is your gauge pod. I am worried that if I only bump the headlight out as required and not lower it how goofy will the gauge pod look?

1. Yes, they allowed complete left and right turning radius with those on....

2. The gauge is mounted about where it was mounted stock... Maybe a tad bit lower... I am not really sure though, It's been awhile but not much lower....

Thanks Broseph,

I'm going to be using sort of a double L bracket to move the headlight assembly both down and out.

___
      \
        \____

Something like this. The two rubber grommets for the top of the headlight mount will attach to the lower part and the top will mount underneath the triple assembly. The bottom will use the same bracket but on it's side.

Hopefully if I use 4 identical brackets the assembly will be lowered and spaced out identically. This is probably going to be the most frustrating part of the clipon/triple install.

Oh another thing...

Dont forget that you need the spacers for your controls and will probably need new adjustable levers...

With the new bars, the controls/resevoirs will not align with the bars and are too close.... With the brembo levers, they are too far away once you have the spacers.

huh? The reservoirs are integrated with the controls, I'm not sure what you mean?

*I'm aware of the need for spacers. but why the need for levers?

Correct, the controls are integrated, however, the levers will be pushed out further away from the bars due to placing the spacers on there...

Since the stock levers are not adjustable, they were pushed way way to far out for my hands to reach them comfortably or even be able to barely work them so I had to buy some adjustable ones that replace the stock ones....

The reservoirs stay put, but the levers remove and new ones go in it's place. With the adjustables I was then able to adjust them closer to the grips so I could use them.

I didnt think I would need them either, until I got everything on there and realized I couldn't reach my controls.... Just a heads up that you "might" need them.

The levers will be further from the bar the distance of the spacer.  Will you need adjustable levers?  Depends on the size of your hands.

Me? I'd go the 3"   (you can always clamp em further down the fork legs if you want lower....).

Some sound advice there IMHO.  You cant move the top triple... that is true but you could move the forks higher through the triple(s) so that you had some fork leg to clamp onto above the top triple.  However, as Raux correctly says that would change the geometry and I agree, I wouldnt do that just for a convenient place to mount clipons.

Need is so subjective  [evil]   If you've got gorilla paws then maybe you wont need..... but regardless they're are nice to have..... sooooo many to choose from.....  8)

Spacers can be hard to find but I see Jeff has has em in stock once again >> http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ADAP/Clutch-Brakes/ADAP.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/ADAP/Clutch-Brakes/ADAP.html)

with SBK forks you can't slide the clipons down too far because they taper from 53 to 52 or 51 (haven't measured it yet) then back to 53.

1 5/8"

Cool they should fit above the tripple on my 998 forks than, thanks

errr... i miswrote it.
1 7/16" hope it still works.

Got my spacers from monsterparts today. Clip-ons arrive tomorrow direct from woodcraft. Waiting on speedymoto (again) to dropship the top triple.

need to get the headlight lowering brackets fabricated asap!!

I could use the help of Anyone with clipon experience. I am attempting to mock up the install on my bike just to get a feel for where I am heading with these new cipons. However I am finding it IMPOSSIBLE to tighten the risers enough to hold the bars. Using a 1/2" wrench for leverage I can not get the riser to pinch of handlebar. I am afraid to give it to much torque for fear of ripping the head off the bolt. I probably put 150lbs of pressure on the bolt and still not tight enough to hold the handlebar in place. It spins freely in the riser.

So lemme see if I got this correct here.....  Its not that you cannot clamp the Woodcraft risers to the bike's fork legs....  You're saying that you're unable to tighten the Woodcraft supplied handlebar tube to the Woodcraft riser section?  Right?? Dunno, maybe they sent you the wrong tube??  Contact your supplier.

Correct. Using the handlebars they supplied with the risers and clip-ons It seems impossible to get the clamp tight enough. Will have to contact them tomorrow.

Love it when things go smoothly

do the tubes fit your controls?
if so they might have sent the wrong mounts. measure the inner diameter, bet they are for 1" bars not the 7/8" bars you have if the controls fit.

I contacted them yesterday. The guy I spoke with said that this sometimes happens. He shipped me out a new set of risers which will be here tomorrow. I'm hoping to get everything installed this Thursday.

Raux:
Great minds think alike. This is the first thing I checked.

[roll]

sounds like a quality control problem in the packaging department

Just an update on the install progress.

Speedymoto top triple is installed and the clipons as well.

Have everything mocked up so I could get an idea how it will look.

Now I just need to measure and drill the three holes on the handlebars for the controls (no idea how I'm going to do this) and fully reassemble the bike.

Last but not least make adjustments to the sweep of the bars and set the stop screws. From the mock-up I did it appears that I will need to adjust the stop screw out ~2 turns. Not because of the controls but because the clipon contacts the frame at full lock.

Any advice for drilling the holes, I don't have a drill press. I'll be doing it by hand.

Pics to follow tomorrow after work. (1/2 day!!)

i took off the nubs from the controls. gives me more flexibility on the install for control mounting. ie the angle of the levers

how far are you sweeping back on the bars?

What did you do to prevent the controls from spinning around the bars??

I'll have pics up tomorrow to show the final product. I'm really excited to share some details about the install and answer some of the questions about doing this install with the woodcraft bars.

a little electrical tape. did two wraps and it was too much, one wrap was enough.

what rise are those? i got the zero rise!

Put some chalk on the nubs.  It will leave a nice little white mark on the bar where you need the holes.



I did mine by hand as well.  Start with a small drill bit and work your way up to the full size hole.

You can always buy a new bar if you mess it up. They are like $40 i think. I had to hand drill mine too. Chalk's a good idea. I loaded the nubs up with sharpie for my marks. Some question for you already:

1How flush do your brackets mount to the forks?
2When they are tight, is there still a space between the two pieces?
3Can you see the thread of the screw between them?

I have woodcrafts on my bike and i thought they would have tightened up a bit more.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with them.

I've tried both the grind-the-nubs-off method and the drilling the bars method.  1st is easier and Raux is right, you can readjust the switchblocks at will.......  but I prefer the positive location of the hole drilling method.  If you make a complete bollocks of it you can always rotate the bar 180 and try again.... the f@cked up hole will be out of sight anyway.  Chalk/Sharpie is good. 

Get a sharp punch, once you locate where you want to drill use the punch to mark the bars a bit. Then use a very tiny sharp bit to drill an initial hole. Then just go up in size slowly until hole is as big as u need it.

I used a protractor and a flexible tape measure. My math skills are pretty poor but I was able to get the holes all perfectly the first time.

Used a punch to set the drill point and this REALLY helped the drill bit seat.

UPDATE!!

Page 1 contains a post-install update with pictures

Looks Good! [thumbsup]

Great job  [thumbsup]  

Did you mount the upper headlight mount bracket-loop thingos to the upper or lower surface of the speedy top triple?

Any chance of a side-on pic?

The headlight bracket things were mounted to the bottom of the top triple. I had to space out the bottom to re-aim the headlight. I discovered on the maiden voyage that the headlight pointed three feet in front of me. Needless to say it was night time.

Side-on? from the side of the bike looking across the bars?? I'll grab a few more tomorrow in the daylight and post them up here.


*added credit where due to the first page post  ;D

I figured you'd need to space out the lower headlight mount - now that I know you did that, the side-on photo wont be needed   ;) (I was curious how you got around the beam-aim otherwise).

Credit? Aw shucks.....  :-[ ;D .  
Glad I could help  [beer]

the headlight is still going to be adjusted more. Using a spacer to point the light higher left maybe 2 threads for the nut to fasten onto. I am considering just using a solid bolt to secure the headlight but I suppose the forces exerted on the light could break it while riding. Still need to figure out the most permanent method to solve this one minor issue.

Maybe place your spacers between the headlight's threaded rubber mounts (they just screw out) and the headlight assembly itself, rather than between the rubber mounts and the triple.  That way you'll still have enough thread left sticking thru the triple mounting points to fully secure the nuts.

I got the headlight height back to the recommended stock height again. I had to purchase 4 small pieces of hardware to get the job done.

2x threaded rod 8x1.0
2x threaded coupler 8x1.0

I threaded the coupler onto the headlight side of the rubber spacer and the rod into the end of the coupler.

I also had nylon spacers in the event that I needed more spacing but fortunately the rod and coupler conveniently set the headlight perfectly on their own.

In the picture the space added to the mount is only the silver couple, the threaded portion is fully threaded into the headlight.
(shitty cellphone pic)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af353/WinSomeLoseNone/Ducati/Monster%20696/Install%20Photos/Woodcraft%20Clipon%20Install/photo.jpg)

Here are my woodcraft on with 2" rise.... Pretty crappy pics with my phone.... But they are on!... Oh also with my 1098 fork swap  ;D

(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/bsurjan/007-2.jpg)

(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/bsurjan/008-3.jpg)

(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv250/bsurjan/010-1.jpg)

Just had to steal my thunder  ;D

Looks great!!!!

You should try pushing the handlebar further through the clipon and eliminate that excess bar and tighten up your controls even more.

What do you think about the cheap-o handlebars. Yea a new set costs $15 but the metal is extremely SOFT. I scratched the shit out of mine during install and Now I need to have the handlebars powdercoated. Will probably get the clipons pc'd as well, gloss black rather than flat black to match the top triple.

How do you like the riding position??

woodcraft makes race parts, that hold up extremely well in crashes (and tend to minimize damage to the bike in these situations as well).

The metal is soft, because its supposed to bend rather than snap in a lowside, so that you can finish the race (if possible)

The finish, is different than the metal being soft, and they're handlebars, you don't NEED to pc them.  They're 90% covered up anyway....if they're black, take sharpie, and scratch gone.

they look like quality, and much cheaper than the other options.

Good call, I just pushed everything in and it looks better... I had them further apart because of the windscreen I was trying to install, but it's not gonna work so in they go....

I had no issues with metal softness.... Yeah, it scratches, but they are covered up completely and what little is expose the scratches are minimal. I am happy with them!
 

I'm not doubting their quality but they could have been pc'd from the start to help with a clean look. They are raw aluminum and when you drop well over $400 into a control setup it would be nice if the bars weren't covered in scratches.

I'll probably run some vinyl tape around the bar to hide the scratches.

let me get this straight here, thinking maybe this mod next summer. 1908 forks, speedymoto triple, and wodcraft 2" rise bars? any modding needed for breaks? i love this look, very nice.

well for 'brakes' you'll need 15mm offset rotors with the '1098' forks. ;)

thanks for the info again Raux, i think i posted the question twice,,,

1908 forks?

Why use something over 100 years old? If cost is a concern, the stock forks aren't THAT bad!

(trying to be more blatant, because i didn't think he got it before)

sorry guys, had an accident at work yesterday, home on percocet all day, bruised ribs and all, spell1ng may be a little off

what kinda of accident? are you ok?

yeah im fine, im building cabinets for work these days, and on a delivery was carrying a 150 lbs corner cabinet with a buddy up someones garage stairs into their house, and i stepped off the landing, fell five feet hit my chest, bruised ribs and bashed face. im ok though, just a little tight today

My 2013 696 was struck by a vehicle in a parking lot while unattended. The steering lock was engaged at the time, and obviously broke the key/lock and steering head among tires/wheels/handlebars/tank/guards/sliders/levers/pedals etc.

Parts ordered:

1. Woodcraft Clip-ons with 3'' riser 50mm silver.

2. Speedymoto Top Triple Monster without Risers 50mm Clear

3. Monsterparts Clip-On Spacer Kit (check website daily until "in stock", usually show "out of stock").

A Ducati dealership installed the parts and drilled the handlebars. They adjusted the wires/cabling, but the headlight didn't require any additional parts.  I don't know about the reports of lowering the headlight, the shop didn't report anything to me about that and I didn't send them anything other than the above. Comparing the headlight angle with an 09 1100, they are both pointing at a downward angle as I think they are supposed to? I am not sure if I should push the bottom of the 696 headlight out a full 1''.

Picking up the bike after repair. Black bike, so I went with "clear" finish Speedymoto upper triple, silver Woodcraft clip-ons:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public1.jpg)

Steering stop, 3 threads showing. Lots of room to increase further:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public2.jpg)

Enough room for my hands. Still some room to increase sweepback angle:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public3.jpg)

3'' Woodcraft riser means the controls would impact the tank at its widest point:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public4.jpg)

Since the Woodcraft risers are sold separately, I could go all the way down to 1'' and not have to re-drill the handlebars. Excepting the no-rise set which ship only with included handlebars. Below 3'' though I would need to consider how to lower the display so it wouldn't look out of place.

It was a 2 hour ride back home at interstate speeds of 70 mph. I was extremely uncomfortable with the handlebar vibration in the throttle hand, leading to numbness and nerve damage. Since the Rizoma handlebar end caps are not weighted, I'll try to find a heavier barend that still fits the Rizoma mirrors and/or fill the handlebars with sand. Then again, I had leather everything, back armor, and a heavy backpack to carry the seat cowl and hold heavier items in the rear seat bag. And streamlining myself as much as possible to avoid wind and loss of gas efficiency.


(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public5.jpg)

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public6.jpg)

If you need/want to move the headlight forward (clearance/looks) there's a kit...

http://www.desmoworld.com/shop/ducati-monster/m696-m796-m1100/elektrik/scheinwerfer/desmoworld-m696-796-1100-1100evo-headlight-relocator.html (http://www.desmoworld.com/shop/ducati-monster/m696-m796-m1100/elektrik/scheinwerfer/desmoworld-m696-796-1100-1100evo-headlight-relocator.html)

I am ignorant. How can I tell if the headlight needs to be moved? Nothing seems to be wrong, so what am I missing?

There seems to be plenty of room between the headlight and the clipon riser:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public8.jpg)


And the lower headlight mount hardware is unchanged:
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon/public7.jpg)

It's an option for those who might have clearance issues or just want the headlight moved.

Ok, looks like it wasn't an issue with a Speedymoto top triple. It's only the stock top triple folks w/clipons who need to readjust the headlight then.

The vibration is not an issue cruising at 45 mph. At 60 - 70 mph there's no getting around it whether 5th or 6th gear.

The Motovation Universal Fit Bar End Weights/Sliders arrived, ordered in Size A as I was pretty sure... But they were too small for the Woodcraft bars. Measured the internal diameter of the bars, approximately 18mm so I will have to size up to Size B. Will try again.

Using the Woodcraft 50mm clipon, it's the Motovation Size B bar end that fit. This bar end is compatible with the Rizoma mirror and the CRG, due to the accent rings that can be installed to increase the diameter.

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/motovation/public1.jpg)

There are two orings. It fits with the outer oring removed, using the inner oring only.
(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/motovation/public2.jpg)

After riding in the dark last week, I finally realized what the headlight issue was.

The beam on my 696 had always pointed somewhat low, and after the clipon install it was even worse. Pointed about 6 feet onto the ground in front.

Fortunately I was able to use the factory vertical adjustment bolt, 8mm behind the right side of the headlight. Turned it clockwise until the light pattern was pointing sufficiently high enough to ride in the dark.

Ordered and installed the lowest Woodcraft riser, 1''. This size was asymmetric, but labeled on the reverse side for right and left:

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon1/1inch_2.jpg)

I decided not to worry about the display height--other bikes that came with factory clip-ons often had prominent gauge clusters anyway. Aesthetically, it was well worth it to have the top triple actually appearing above the handlebar clamp/riser:

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon1/1inch_1.jpg)

The clutch and brake reservoir lines needed to be loosened enough to rotate them, otherwise kinking would occur:

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon1/1inch_3.jpg)

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon1/1inch_4.jpg)

Once adjusted, roughly 1/2'' of clearance from levers to the front turn signals:

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/clipon1/1inch_5.jpg)


Notes:

1. I kept the steering stops the same as the 3'' setup. 1'' riser and 3'' had similar tank clearance, but that was not the main issue. I ran out of hand clearance well before the controls would hit the tank cover. Using a gloved hand, I adjusted the handlebar angle based on hand clearance at full lock. I could have gone 1/2 inch more aggressive sweep, but would have risked being unable to make tight turns in parking lots due to my hand getting pinched.

2. 1'' riser was the lowest possible size while still keeping the stock front turn signals. With small hands, my levers were always rotated upward more than most people would have though. No-rise would've probably needed smaller front turn signals.

3. Hoses on the left side barely cleared the headlight housing. The right side hoses had plenty of room though. I would imagine no-rise bars could start to run into headlight modifications, but am not 100% sure as I've never tried.

4. There were unwanted resonances though with the lighter riser compared to the tall 3'' riser.

5. Extreme handlebar angles that mimicked sad dog ears, would have only been possible on vintage bikes with skinny tanks.

There are continuing questions, here are the answers:

Newest generation 696 Monsters need the reservoir spacers, and this photo demonstrates why. If you do not create that gap, there is a problem with the reservoirs contacting the clip-on mount.

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/cliptut/spacer.jpg)

Also, the horizontal angle of the coffin reservoirs is fixed. Note the angle of the clutch reservoir when parked. It seems to be at risk of developing an air bubble in the line, due to the side tap of the reservoir.

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/cliptut/angle.jpg)

Note a Monster with remote clutch reservoir and clip-ons. There is some adjustability to re-level by rotating the various brackets. And in any case, the bottom location of the reservoir tap makes this a non-issue.

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/cliptut/remote.jpg)

With clip-ons, this is how the fluid level sits in the clutch reservoir. I removed some fluid, to emphasize the slope:

(http://www.underway.us/monster/696/cliptut/reservoir.jpg)


There is not as much leeway compared to stock, especially when leaning over in left turns.

Remember that the sight glass is the minimum level. The maximum fill level is actually the seam of the lid, and sadly with clip-ons the fluid will never actually be at maximum volume.

I use a rear stand in order to fill the reservoir to a higher level. Then, I install the membrane and lid before removing the stand.

The fluid weeps out naturally while parked, but stays at a higher level than if I hadn't used the stand.

Maybe I am overly cautious, but you get the idea. Loss of clutch fluid is much harder to tell compared to transparent reservoirs.

The shape of the membrane is a deep V shape, not a collapsing/auto extending membrane from what I can tell. I wish I could see exactly how the fluid sits with the membrane installed, but that is not possible.

Find some masters that arent coffins

There needs to be some space for expansion.  Unless there are leaks fluid level will rise with clutch wear.  Also, the diaphragm does fold back like on a car.  They should also not weep.  Check the condition of the diaphragms and flatness of the covers.  I don't know what the angle is on your clip-ons, but the coffins worked fine on my Cycle Cats.