Ducati Monster Forum

I am at the cross roads with my FCRs...to pod or not to pod.  Wanted to see what most of you have installed on your Duc.  I currently have an open airbox but not happy with the way it fits.

If you're trying to solve a cosmetic problem (i.e. you don't like how it looks) pods are better.

If you want better performance, in general an open airbox is going to provide good breathing, but most importantly a nice volume of "still" air to breathe from.

between airbox and pods, you defintely feel a power difference with pods...err lack of.

Its just not as punchy at 3-4,000 rpm. The airbox is suppose to give a boost in power at the low range by design.

QuoteIf you want better performance, in general an open airbox is going to provide good breathing, but most importantly a nice volume of "still" air to breathe from.

Quotebetween airbox and pods, you defintely feel a power difference with pods...err lack of.
Its just not as punchy at 3-4,000 rpm. The airbox is suppose to give a boost in power at the low range by design.

May very well be true,
but I haven`t actually seen any real proof of this.
Or have I missed something?!? :D

Here we go again.... [roll]

Pods on mine.
Power seems roughly the same as with the stock airbox. If I was overly concerned about power I'd have something bigger than a 620.
Visually it's nice to see thru the bike to the other side.

Quote from: javadave on July 01, 2010, 09:05:00 AM
I am at the cross roads with my FCRs...to pod or not to pod.  Wanted to see what most of you have installed on your Duc.  I currently have an open airbox but not happy with the way it fits.

What is the problem with how it fits? Do you mean a PITA to remove and refit, particularly when it's a one piece part with the battery box?

If you are running a small battery you can get away with separating the air box from the battery box, which makes tuning and maintenance easier. I separated them and trimmed the plastic 'bridge' between them. Some people have commented that a large battery will rock with the vibration and snap the bolts holding the box to the frame which is valid. I run a smaller battery have had no problems.

I also relieved the plastic above the top of the carbs on the back of the air box to give me better access to removing the tops of the FCRs. This lets me leave the ignition bits alone. I remove the battery box and can change the needle positions with the carbs and air box in place.
You can even synchronize the carbs with the battery and battery box off but connected via cables, so you can run the motor without the battery in the way and use a manometer.

I had my valves adjusted recently and it saved on the labour cost because only the battery/battery box had to be removed to get to the rear exhaust valve cover.

I like to try to modify what's there and make it work better if possible. Just an option to consider.

Quote from: greenmonster on July 01, 2010, 04:57:29 PM
May very well be true,
but I haven`t actually seen any real proof of this.
Or have I missed something?!? :D

Here we go again.... [roll]

Hey Greenmonster

Pods Vs Open airbox

Let the battle begin! [popcorn]

I went to pod filters because the airbox is such a pain to take off due to the lack of space to get tools in there.

but as far as my butt dynos, theres defintely a drop in torque at the 3-4rpm range. its the same feeling you get from running open udder. just doenst have that kick anymore. i took of my fatduc to make sure it wasnt that, and yea its the pod filters. im not to concerned with power either, but there was a big enough difference to make me notice it and my happy face kinda goes away.

the airbox is suppose to work on helmholtz resonance and provide a big bang of air due to this shape so theres always a ready amount of air to gulp vs having to create a vaccum just to suck in more air.

Quote from: He Man on July 01, 2010, 09:16:58 PM
I went to pod filters because the airbox is such a pain to take off due to the lack of space to get tools in there.

but as far as my butt dynos, theres defintely a drop in torque at the 3-4rpm range. its the same feeling you get from running open udder. just doenst have that kick anymore. i took of my fatduc to make sure it wasnt that, and yea its the pod filters. im not to concerned with power either, but there was a big enough difference to make me notice it and my happy face kinda goes away.

the airbox is suppose to work on helmholtz resonance and provide a big bang of air due to this shape so theres always a ready amount of air to gulp vs having to create a vaccum just to suck in more air.

Just so I understand correctly... You completely removed your airbox, which obviously includes the built in velocity stacks, and put pod filters straight onto the throttle bodies??? You will most definitely loose out on the bottom end and mid range with the slightest (to nill) gain at the top end.. Fueling will be shitty and eratic and you will probably put the bike back to original with in a short period of time and claim that pod filters and velocity stack replacements are good for nothing.
The only way to really get this working is with velocity stacks (even the original ones) back in place and to add a power commander (or similar) so that you can set up the correct fuel maps..

Greg.

I agree with Greg.
For Pods to work correctly you need a the proper velocity stack and a good remap ( or rejet if you have carbs).

We just installed a TPO kit on our Sports Classic project.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/Motowheelscom/Motowheels%20Sport%20Classic/DSCN0660.jpg)

We relocated the Speedcell battery into the tail.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/Motowheelscom/Motowheels%20Sport%20Classic/DSCN0659.jpg)

We are using a Protune to change the maps.

-M

Quote from: Wasp on July 02, 2010, 02:56:18 AM
Just so I understand correctly... You completely removed your airbox, which obviously includes the built in velocity stacks, and put pod filters straight onto the throttle bodies??? You will most definitely loose out on the bottom end and mid range with the slightest (to nill) gain at the top end.. Fueling will be shitty and eratic and you will probably put the bike back to original with in a short period of time and claim that pod filters and velocity stack replacements are good for nothing.
The only way to really get this working is with velocity stacks (even the original ones) back in place and to add a power commander (or similar) so that you can set up the correct fuel maps..

Greg.

Pretty much. Never claimed pods and vstacks arer good for nothing, regarding your kit, i was wondering what kind of gains you get just from a power commander since the stock airbox has its own vstack. They are built into every vehicle for a reason. But dayum. big impact here without them, i knew i was going to take a loss, but it was bit too much. Im throwing the stock airbox back on until i can get the beast kit here. I cant put my money to my mouth and try your kit. :( maybe one day i can check them out as it looks top notch.

QuoteJust so I understand correctly... You completely removed your airbox, which obviously includes the built in velocity stacks, and put pod filters straight onto the throttle bodies???

All FCR CARBS kits f  I`ve seen has had velocity stacks w them.

heman, you`re injected, right?
I have no proof but believe those are more sensitive to airbox/pods/stacks mods.
Maybe the reason f Wasp`s kit was created....

Quotethe airbox is suppose to work on helmholtz resonance and provide a big bang of air due to this shape so theres always a ready amount of air to gulp vs having to create a vaccum just to suck in more air.

That sounds good and plausible :D,
any figures of that?


AND, btw,
I am not especially pro or con any setup, just after the IRL hard facts like Dyno figures of similar setup bikes w
pods or box.

And, yep I have FCR w pods.... ;)

well if i had a dyno id show you with airbox and without airbox.

HOWEVER from all the reports ive read, aftermarket Velocity stacks can make up for this and then some by design.

Now for street application, if someone could design an airbox with WASP or TPO vstacks and could fit a larger air filter. BAM thats money right there. :p

I put my stock air filter back on and a brand new chain, ill tell you what my butt dyno says when i come home tongiht.

QuoteI put my stock air filter back on and a brand new chain, ill tell you what my butt dyno says when i come home tongiht.

Going real hardcore, yeeaahh... [evil] ;)

Quote from: greenmonster on July 02, 2010, 03:12:13 PM
Going real hardcore, yeeaahh... [evil] ;)

Hell yea MOTHER make the beast with two backsER!!!!

butt dyno, i should charge people half price of a real dyno.  :)

"uhh yea, defintely feels like you gained about 3-4hp for sure."

After modding my totally adjustable MyECU a while now,
all I can say is, my butt sucks baaad as a tuning instrument.
The broadband Lambda at least got me into the ballpark.

But not all butts are created equal.... ;) [roll] ;D

butt dyno felt a HUGE difference in torque. Of course im riding around without an airfilter since i SOLD that shit. :/ going to borrow my friends. dont think im going to buy the TPO kit though. Im way to poor right now. i got another ticket for having my visor up and that one cost me $150 bones. guess ill just have to live with an airbox for now.

I just got the tpo r kit today. Still waiting on ecu and full system exhaust to really feel the difference.

Can i install this thing on my stock setup?

It would lighten the load on the day i put my arrows and ecu on.

you can't run pods without some sort of fuel additions. you would run too lean.

Quote from: greenmonster on July 02, 2010, 02:57:15 PM
All FCR CARBS kits f  I`ve seen has had velocity stacks w them.

heman, you`re injected, right?
I have no proof but believe those are more sensitive to airbox/pods/stacks mods.
Maybe the reason f Wasp`s kit was created....



That sounds good and plausible :D,
any figures of that?


AND, btw,
I am not especially pro or con any setup, just after the IRL hard facts like Dyno figures of similar setup bikes w
pods or box.

And, yep I have FCR w pods.... ;)

Hey Greenmonster
Are you running the blue velocity stacks with your pods or have you clamped the pods to the alloy air box adapters?

With the air box I am running the FCR alloy adapters with the stock rubber stacks. I have a shorter set of rubber stacks (modified stock) that I Will test when Brad Black gets his dyno room finished. They have the same shape but are just shorter.  It's a way off yet but I will post my results when its tested.

I have emailed Wasp regarding any stacks that would bolt to FCRs but haven't heard from them yet.

I have these:

(http://www.kaemna.de/pic/katalog/632a.jpg)