I'm in the process of my first valve check. Focusing on the horizontal cylinder first. All was going well till I tried to remove the intake closing shim. Collets out and cam rotated to get rocker out the way, but it seems to hit something before the top edge of the shim even passes the top of the valve...
My only thought is the opener clearance was very tight (<.0015) so could the top the valve deformed keeping the closing shim from being able to slide past it? I see a little ridge about where the opening shim's bottom edge would be when placed on the valve.
So if this is what's going on, does anyone have any advise on how to proceed? Thank you...
Ryan
Lightly sand around the top of the valve stem, which has mushroomed enough to prevent you from removing the closer. I've had this happen before too. No biggie.
awesome, that's what I was considering. Thanks!
Also, channelocks and a little brutality will work as well.
:D
If you go the channel-lock route, try to make sure not to pull the valve stem laterally -- you do not want to bend it.
^
That's good advice, but I don't think anyone on this board is man enough to bend a valve stem with a pair of chanellocks clamped on a closer shim.
The valve stem is like the diameter of a pen tube.
They're stout.
But like nomadwarmach says, pull straight up and you'll be better for it.
take a socket put it over the shim and tap it.
or u can take a punch made of brass or wood and just tap all around it.
you can support the valve using the cams by sticking a large 8mm hex key or something similar from the opposite end.
Quote from: Monsterlover on July 13, 2010, 05:36:42 PM
^
That's good advice, but I don't think anyone on this board is man enough to bend a valve stem with a pair of chanellocks clamped on a closer shim.
The valve stem is like the diameter of a pen tube.
They're stout.
But like nomadwarmach says, pull straight up and you'll be better for it.
I agree. Might be possible to deform the guide, though....