Ducati Monster Forum

The oil lines on my project 750 need replacing. I thought about purchasing a set from motowheels  [bacon],
(http://www.motowheels.com/italian/images/lg615696707.jpg)

but they're a bit pricey at $225.  :P

I got to thinking of just making my own by using Earl's products. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/303006/10002/-1?parentProductId=749410 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/303006/10002/-1?parentProductId=749410)
Looks like for under $100 you can build your own.  [thumbsup]

Saw this vid on how to put them together and it seems pretty straight forward.
Scotty's Garage - Episode 2 - Making braided lines (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzxFpZidPLw#normal)

Looking to hear from anyone that's tried doing this. Any feedback would be appreciated. 

I'm all for DIY mods that help keep costs down, but sometimes it's just not worth the risk. The oil lines are under a tremendous amount of stress and pressure, and the consequences of a catastrophic line failure are a heck of a lot more expensive than the 125 bucks you'd be saving. I'd just save up for a month or so and get them  [thumbsup]

That's why I'm asking from someone that's tried it.  ;)
I'm tired of doing all my own stunts, I'd like a stunt double whenever possible.  ;D

Buy a set of used stock lines, or buy a set of pre-made ones.  I'm pretty sure there are companies that can make a set of assemble the Earl's fittings of your choice.  I am ALL for DIY, but after having attempted working with Earl's fittings on an M696 oil cooler project, including using the technique that guys did, it is NOT that easy and it tears your fingers up...  He was using beefier lines than what would be used on an oil cooler and that may be why it looks so easy in the video...

I just built my own lines on my 696. I used a synthetic weave instead of stainless steel. So far i have had no problems with my lines. I'm fairly  new at automotive work but it was not a difficult mod and in my opinion kind of a no brainer with regards to saving money. My advice, take your time, measure twice before you cut and make sure you have to propper tools: Sharp saw that cuts straight, masking tape to keep the fibers on the line from fraying while you cut it, assembly oil and thread sealent, and the right wrenches. Most importantly, DON'T overtighten the fittings because most are mad out of aluminum and will shear of you put any good amount of force on them. I tightened mine just to the point that portion that slides over the line touches the attachment coupling if that makes sense (i ended up shearing off the first AN fitting i installed, $6 lesson). Total cost for me was about $140 however i did have to buy the AN to metric adapters for the oil cooler and engine case because my monster didn't come with an oil cooler. I bet your $100 estimate definitely about spot on. As for the Synthetic lines go, they have worked great so far. The return lines sits about a quarter inch from the exhaust downtube and has shown no indication of susceptibility to heat. Synthetic lines are also a little easier to work with IMHO because they don't require a hack saw or dremel to cut, just use a sharp razor blade. If durability from road debris, ect. is of concern to you then stainless is the way to go. Lastly, if weight savings is a concern of yours as well, the synthetic can shed a little bit of weight as well. Not trying to sell you as product, just giving some options sense you appear open minded about modding your own lines. I went through JEGS and Summint Racing for my parts with good results, JEGS shipping is really fast, 3 days for standard ground to my door (i live in washington state, not sure where they are located at). Good luck which ever route you go.

Here is what the synthetic lines look like. If you go this route and your using AN sized lines I'd recommend AN6. I have AN4 on my bike and i feel they are a bit on the small side for the inner diameter vs. what the inner diameter of the stock oil lines were. (http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz16/kennynwhiteII/IMG_0782.jpg)
(http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/zz16/kennynwhiteII/IMG_0783.jpg)

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Thanks for the pics RepeaR696. I like that blacked out look, very nice.  [bacon]

ReapeR696, do you happen to have the part #'s for the items you used? I'm not so clear on line size either. Did you use 1/2" or 3/8" lines?

Thanks.  [thumbsup]

That looks really slick. I am looking into replacing mine on my S2R. Is that where they place the regulator / behind the radiator? I wonder why they they did not do that from the begining. You here too many stories of cooked regulators. My only problem is with the brass sleeves.

@ ReapeR696

You realize having your regulator/rectifier mounted ON the oil cooler is seriously reducing its effectiveness right?  Those lines look great, but I reviewed the tolerance/heat specifications on those and thought they were a little too close for comfort.  Obviously the rubber isn't going to melt but since the lines are more vulnerable at the front of the bike to heat/debris/vibration against frame, engine cases, etc. you want the steel for added protection. 

Pedro-bolt, After writing my previous diatribe i did some thinking. Sense you already had oil lines on your bike my method of line making wont be a direct swap over because where the lines tie into the engine case and oil cooler i used a metric to AN adapter (14mm to AN 4). You could do this but it would require you buying new adapters that run about $15 each. OK, on to your actual question. The inner diameter of my lines is 7/16" or 6.17mm so a tad bit smaller than 3/8". Looking at the original lines that came with the oil cooler, the outer diameter is 1.2", the only way to measure the inner diameter would be to disassemble them and i haven't done that but I'm assuming that you were referencing the outer diameter. I'd probably go for the 1/2" if i were you. You'll need to verify this my measuring but you probably have 14mm threads on your fittings so your easiest solution would be to try and source all metric items so it is a direct bolt up application instead of doing a metric to AN or SAE conversion. If you stay metric you will need lines with an outer diameter of 12.7mm but as previously stated i don't have an inner diameter measurement which is unfortunately is what really matters.

Part#'s (bear in mind these are for my setup which is AN 4, i do feel AN 6 is a better replacement though)
14mm to AN4 adapter (need 4 of these) #: 9919BFHERL
Lightweight black hose 6ft #: 0555110901
Straight hose end black/gold (need 2 of these )#: 05551120000
90 deg hose end black/gold (need 2 of these) #: 0555112020

I also used assembly oil and thread sealent. You can buy all of this through JEGS and there are allot of other options like a few different colors of AN fitting, different fitting bends like 45 deg and so on. You can pretty much make whatever sort of application you think will work for you and if you order the wrong stuff they are really easy to work with to return stuff, even if the packages are open and the parts have had some use, trust me I've had to do this  ;) . Hope that answers your question.

2-Skinney, good catch on the voltage regulator, i'm in the process of figuring out a new location for it away from the radiator for the reason you stated, a novice mistake on my part, perhaps i can find some room under the tank. I had your suspicions about the road debris/ vibration and heat as well which has caused me to be very critical on checking my lines after every ride to see if there is any damage, so far i've found none but you never know. I guess i'm gunnie pigging this one.

There should be room up just under the tank near the stock position.  We mounted it on a custom aluminum mount...   You can see in this picture on the right side where we managed to make it fit using the piece of aluminum as a mount and bolting it to one of the fairing mounting points.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/2-Skinny/IMG_2954_1843x1382.jpg)

How so?  What's the pressure these lines have to deal with?

I agree with the above, normal operating shouldn't be higher than about 100 psi (but I can't confirm that).  The hose is rated to about 2000 psi or so.  If you install the fittings per the instructions it should be fine, though an annealed or properly crimped fitting will offer better leak protection that a threaded one and be cheaper to (less threaded fittings/adapters to buy).  You do have to have a crimping tool which costs about $17.  The other thing too is that these lines aren't likely to be removed hardly ever where as in alot of racing applications lines are in tight spots so they are disconnected for engine pulls, servicing etc.

I made my own oil lines (Summit) and they've been fine for several thousand miles.   [moto]

(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/3c86c7d3.jpg)

Thanks for sharing Pompetta. Very nice.  [bacon]

I come from the automotive world, i've built several types of lines for oil (high/low pressure), gas, and water. As long as you get buy good stuff it's a no brainer. The stainless stuff is nice but you can also go with the pushlock fittings as it is cheaper and just as effective.

Quick google search and i found this http://www.hoseline.net/hose/pushon.htm (http://www.hoseline.net/hose/pushon.htm) but plenty of places to buy the stuff.


Well i wouldn't use duct tape, i have always used masking tape and it has worked fine. Also, I'm not trying to be mean here but making your own lines isn't that difficult. It's more technique than anything, make sure you wrap the brained line TIGHT. You aren't going to hurt it. When you cut it make sure you go fast and deliberate just like the guy in the video did or you'll have problems.

The proper line to use are AN-6 for the oil coolers. My company carries everything need to make your own lines. We are also significantly less cost than Summit or Jegs. We carry the full Aeroquip fittings and adapters needed to make your own. We also carry the Aeroquip Pro Gold line if you want to get crazy (kevlar braided and convoluted line) but it is special order. Our Website is Ballerbolts.com click on Aeroquip and AN fittings.

[thumbsup]

Hey Ryan, good to see you back... Seems like you have been on hiatus for a bit. Haven't seen any posts lately.

Can you make an oil cooler line kit(everything installed and attached)? I want to replace my oil cooler lines with something new and shiny when I do my next oil change, but when I tried making my own I failed miserably. I tried every technique and tool I saw with zero luck, cut up hands, a busted ego, and wasted money. 

Thanks for the confirmation on the AN6 lines Ryan, I suspected as much but now i know for sure! Sounds like i might be making an investment in some of your product when i upgrade my lines!

Doworkson....

LOL No I haven't been on Hiatus...Just working my butt off.  I am almost completely caught up with the exhaust orders! One to go! We had to do an emergency shop move last month, as our landlord apparently was not paying the mortgage. We got a 6 day notice to move.  We did it but it derailed our progress by 2 weeks. Now maybe I can finally put my own exhaust on my own bike...(the nice production version and not a crappy prototype!).

I can make the lines for you no problem, I have done it a hundred some odd times and know all the dirty little tricks to cut them and get them in the fitting without cutting myself or marring the fitting.  All I need is the over all length dimension and I can make it happen.  The best thing to do is use a stiff rope to get the measurement.  Just be sure the radius isn't too short that it could not be duplicated with stainless lines.  The Lightweight Black hose or the Kevlar Nomex can do a little tighter radius.

Definitely masking tape like Jim said, I cant see duct tape working very well as the stickiness would increase fraying during removal i would think. Might i add that being patient when removing the tape is a MUST in preventing the strands from unweaving. Doing that along with using some assembly lube on the end should drastically improve your chances of getting the lines into the fitting ends. Lastly, take care when tightening the fittings, i advise using thread sealent as it will not only add a little insurance against leaks but will also minimize the chances of thread galling from taking place.

I would not use thread sealer of any kind on an AN fitting. Both the 37 degree mating surface and the line connection are designed to be used without any thread sealer in any way shape or form. Once you use thread sealer the fitting is destroyed and permanently deformed. AN lines are designed to seal with only being hand tight. I do not use any tape when cutting the lines and I don't use a hack saw or cut-off wheel.  However, I do use a little bit of ATF when sliding the line into the fitting.  

P.S. One important caveat - When you cut the lines with a hack-saw or cut off wheel, you must thoroughly clean the inside of the line out, or else there is a very good chance you will have fine pieces of stainless steel wire trying to flow through your rod and main bearings.

doing your own lines is perfectly fine.

just just a comment on the screen capture from the vid

DONT use a hacksaw, trust me not worth the trouble, use an air powered zip cutter
(small cutting wheel)

you will save yourself a headache trying to keep the braids from fraying

Thanks for the input guys!
Ordered what I needed from JEGS and got busy putting this together just like on the video.
Pretty straightforward. Some difficulty getting the fittings in but with a little patience nothing that can't be done. Here's some pics.  [drink]

Before:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5188310211_6457b65411_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188310211/)

The Goods:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1286/5188911154_6b7a61f9e6_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188911154/)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1027/5188317563_bc762e27f2_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188317563/)


After:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1288/5188911440_bf3777d149_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188911440/)

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4111/5188909246_120305a365_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188909246/)

(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1044/5188309631_6852ff5a3c_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/14487357@N08/5188309631/)

After shipping I spent just under $110. Fun little project. I think it's time to make some braided fuel lines.  [bacon]

excellent excellent post with 100% correct information.

you've inspired me, but I want to put some right angle pipe in the line and try to make the hose shorter overall and hug the engine more. 

Thanks to R696 i decided to under take this project as well. Adapted an 999 cooler to my 900ss.

Finally got around to getting everything mounted up.

Here is what it looks like. Still need to make some brackets so the cooler matches the lines of the lower cowl better.

(http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/93/photodsk.jpg)


Here are the parts that I used (click for links):

4x 14x1.5mm to AN-6 fittings (http://"http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491962-BL/?rtype=10")

2x  45* AN-6 fittings
 (http://"http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FRA2245")
2x  Straight AN-6 fittings (http://"http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FRA220")

  1.5ft of hose (http://"http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FRA8400")

Liked the idea of the nylon hose both for it being super light weight but because it would not fray like crazy when trying to get the hose into the fittings. The fittings I got were specifically designed for the nylon hose. Painted my headers then wrapped with heat tape and then painted again. Wanted to keep as much heat away from the lines as possible, worked great too as you can hold onto the pipe now.