Ducati Monster Forum

Someone buy it and be the guinea pig.  [cheeky]

http://www.slingshotracing.net/catalog/ducati-cnc-billet-kickstand-side-stand-p-205.html (http://www.slingshotracing.net/catalog/ducati-cnc-billet-kickstand-side-stand-p-205.html)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4791158175_6c28e48750_b.jpg)

fraking 150 bucks and supersmall foot that looks like a spike ... ehhh pass.

They quote wider footprint.

i know not more than the 696. suppose the AL ones of the 1100 it could be.

My stock sidestand already sinks into any less than solid surface - including bitumen in the summer, so I wouldnt try that one even if you bought it  ;D

Than what?  Coz it looks less wide than the foot on my M1100 stocker......

Are there any other options currently out there...and if so, for less?

Then stock. Plus the taller stand will put less weight into the tarmac.

You would need to call them to confirm.

Nah, I dont think I need to call em.

I'd rather wait see what Mark comes up with >> http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39792.0 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=39792.0)

Wait to see? It's right there.  We just need a price...and a date.

Only a picture of it is right there.  Waiting.... to see how soon until reality and @ how much $$  ;)

I bought it, it's already been shipped.  I'll let you know what I think when it arrives on wed or thurs.

Worst case I'll add a delrin "foot" to it.  Still pissed my side stand idea didn't pan out, but I'm almost ready to ride the thing so I'm tired of waiting.

Just dont ever park in the sun. My SSR black anodized stuff turned shite brown after one day parked at work.

Garbage garbage garbage.

that happens with most anodizied parts.

most poorly anodized parts.

Looks alot like the ones that Cycle Cat used to make.

huh?

(http://img6.werkenntwen.de/photo12/b9b4cdbbaa6f6059a7b73e36637f285a/j/e/jehjy9bu22jc39ndw0iigoq5de9.jpg)

that's the one i have for sale, and looks NOTHING like those

(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/Motowheelscom/Misc/CC-3.jpg)   (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4791158175_6c28e48750_b.jpg)


Cycle Cat S4R - sorry should have specified

Odd. My SSR black anodized gas cap still looks great, and has been parked in the sun quite a bit.  ???

i have an SSR shifter its purple already.

i have a APEX clip on black, its also purple.

i have a woodcraft black, the slider is purple, but hte body is still black.

i had a Speedymoto black pressureplate that faded to purple. warranty it to gold, and it is dull now not lusterous anymore.

i have a level 3 hard anodized FP racing lever that hasnt changed color 1 bit.


its just the type of anodizing you choose. the more durable you want it, the more you gotta pay. SSR is very very thin. I feel like they skimp out on the quality of aluminum too... but hey, my bike went down and completely twisted a shifter up and i hammered it back in place. still holds fine so im happy!

I have an Evo clutch slave and CRG levers, both are still as black as they were when brand new. I keep my bike indoors, but ride it in the sun often, and occasionally park it in the sun as well. All black ano is not created equal.

 I didn't have the same experience with their products. I had a fuel cap on my S2R and it help up great. It was on for over a year before Swampduc bought it. Maybe he'll weigh in and let us know how it's doing now.

I plan on re-anodizing everything the same shade black anyway, so I don't care :)

I think it's you! LOL. Are you washing the bike with acid?  ;)

Well, he did have to get the deep fryer grease off of it!  [laugh]

No. And calling it garbage is a bit on the childish side, I'd say. UV-Fading is normal with all standard-anodized parts. Red goes to pink, Gold goes to yellow, "titanium gray" goes to lighter gray, Black goes to purple. Has nothing to do with quality, they will all do it. How quickly it happens depends on a few factors. Going hard-anodized is the way to delay the uv-fading process the longest.

The only anodizing gauranteed not to fade is "clear". If you are worried about cosmetics and will have the bike in the sun, skip over black and red, OR get all your parts from the same manufacturer and put them on at the same time so as they fade, it all fades equally.


Same experience Josh ("A M") has had with them - nothing but good service and fine parts. Several of the SSR parts on his Monster are less faded than the CycleCat, SpeedyMoto or Rizoma parts. The Rizoma rearsets are still very black, but the turn signals faded a bit more to yellow from gold than expected.

nah my bikes just in the sun all the time, the parts where i leave a nice layer of grime or oil, stays pretty dark.


besides anodizing's intent is to make hte piece harder, even if the dye fades it still retains its hardness.

I know you're probably going to do it anyway  :P, but would you mind weighing the piece against the stock piece, and posting up?  I've been keeping a spreadsheet of various part weights, and want to compare for future reference.  TIA

Stock is 8.8 ounces
SSR is 11 ounces

I've removed the sidestand switch, and associated wiring.  Works out to be a 1 ounce loss of weight (lighter) with the stock bolts, and nearly 3 with the titanium fasteners.

Ok yeah, I'm sick.

Thanks!  [thumbsup]

One more thing, could we get a comparison side by side pic of the footprint area?

I'll see what I can do.  It's not enough (IMHO) to avoid a puck or one of those 2$ plastic stand thingies (that I always carry under the seat)

Or a beer can.  ;)

or a COCACOLA can for those who don't advocate drinking and riding ;)

seriously though i used those, cause inevitiably i would leave it behind.

Ok. You're in the sheisse now.  The umweltpolizei will be on your tail for littering now you've admitted your crime.

My bike fell completely over in the parking lot at work a few weeks ago.  Thank goodness for frame sliders, the bike landed on the slider and was just teetering on it, nothing else touched.  Talk about lucky!  Our parking lot at work is VERY soft pavement, so I now make sure to always park on the perimeter which has concrete.

I saw a funky little kickstand with a duck foot on the forum once before, but can't find the post now. It was almost too comical, but would provide a wider footprint and sure was unique.  Has anyone else seen that one?

i think duc cutters made them, it was limited production. really funny and cool item that only the in people would get. [laugh]

(http://i29.tinypic.com/27z92tg.jpg)

That's the one. I don't know if I could actually put that on my bike, but it is a neat novelty to see on someone else's bike. It's also the only one I've seen with a wider footprint than stock.  I'll just get some free pucks at the track.

them duc feet would be GONE at the track!

hell, last time I was at the track with a standard side stand, i shaved the hell out of it....had to replace it, because it became an 1/8 inch wide spike....

never again will i leave that on while riding on track

Just remove the sidestand whilst on the track. 

Id have to get a sport chock or have someone get the rearstand for me while i wait, but yea, i plan to eventually.

Why? Swing right leg over, while holding bike. Walk bike to rear stand, put bike on rearstand.

Works every time.  Just don't mess up, otherwise people might laugh and then help you pick the bike back up.

I've done 4 or 5 days standless, and won't ever go back.  No one there to help me with the rearstand usually (they're all riding too), gottta be self sufficient.

Now, if you ride to the track, getting the stand THERE is the bigger problem

And the one time you do mess up, its on the floor. Not worth it, especially when im in tight leathers, i cant bend over to pick up a rearstand without bending my knees, i also cant touch the floor since im short so i cant get off the bike without the sidestand to begin with. :p

Don't mess up.  I've got a 30" inseam, and am 5'6", never had a problem. It's how most of the people do it once the stand comes off

what about those front wheel chocks that stand alone and you just drive into and they lock?

well then your better than i am.


Almost done making one. $200 on a sport chock or another trackday and i just make my own? the choice is simple! Still need to get a beefier stablizing arm and a ramp that guides the wheel in and holds the rear wheel + drill hoels to bolt it together.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=810&g2_serialNumber=2)

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=807&g2_serialNumber=2)

Better isn't the word, although possibly true.  More daring, and practiced.  If you're worried about it, put the bike next to the wall, and practice for a bit.  If you lose it, the handlebar will tap the wall and nothing bad happens.

GL with that sport chock.  It makes for a 10x better solution than the standard get off and grab stand without dropping bike.

Bah! You could do it. I'd say 50% of people at trackdays do it (including me).

A drive-in type chock is defintely nicer though.

i see people do it all the time, but those are the same people who can get out of their leathers by themselves.  :P

If I was in civvies I'd have no problem. ;)

I have Pit Bull front and rear stands that I use in the garage.  The rear stand handle comes down toward the front of the bike when you lift the bike, so it is very easy to do by yourself.  Matter of fact, I did it yesterday by myself and I currently have 60 staples in my stomach due to a mid-line incision from surgery last week.  If I can do it in this condition, anyone can do it.

By contrast, I used to have a Pit Bull rear stand for my GSXR and the handle went away from the bike when you lifted the bike.  You had to kind of hold the tail of the bike with 1 hand and fenagle (sp?) the stand with the other hand. Not much fun by yourself.

I like that home-made stand.  Nothing like keeping it simple and doing your own fab work when possible. Cudos!

I'm just confused one thing about this stand, I recall with the CC stand, there was one for 4valve engines and another completely different one for 2 valve engines; as shown in alfisti's post. Going to the SSR site they list this stand fitting all monsters. I am temped, but this doesn't sound right. Also it looks like a tree trunk...oh wait our bikeswould have a big third leg then [cheeky]
*note to Tafty, it looks like you could safely mill a slot on the backside of this thing and even the weight with stock, and no one the wiser. [evil]

we have the same sickness.

....already having problems with the stands sinking into the asphalt, the last thing I'd think to do would be put a small sharp edged foot on the Monster.



If I were going to make a change I'd rather have this anyway:

(http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachments/hypermotard/43753d1234840174-1098-kickstand-dsc_0011.jpg)

The problem with the DucFoot kickstand that I made (below and for others) is that the large base footprint needs to be custom fit to each Ducati due to front/rear height and angle the bike leans.  Each one was different and thus no way a "standardized setup" could be made.  This applies to all large footprint kickstands. 

Bill / DucCutters later sold a do-it-yourself weld on DucFoot, but typically most ended up having to cut/weld the foot a few times before they got the angle set correctly to get the footprint flat.

We looked at doing upcoming for our own extended length kickstands, but the cost to make the 2-plane adjustable clamping system work and still be lightweight wasn't cost effective. 

What exhaust is that on this bike?
Is this your bike?

Looks interesting.

I wondered why we weren't seeing more of these around the forum. Makes sense though.

They look great in any case - keep us posted if you make more!  [thumbsup]


It's a local guys bike that has given new meaning to "heavily modded". He's put a load of work into it - and for the record the exhaust is terribly annoyingly loud. The rest of the bike has some very cool mods though.

(http://gallerymotorcycle.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Ducati-Monster-Turbo.jpg)

Using spec MIL-A-8625F requires both corrosion and light fastness requirements.  A good shop will do Taber testing to ensure color fastness and resistance to UV fade.

There are multiple DOD standards for anodizing which CAN be used by a shop.  The best tack is to find a shop who is familiar with these specs and have the work done by them.

The problem with black dyes is that they are usually just super dark blue or red.  Check with a black light and you'll be surprised, which is why they often fade to purple.

A good anodizer should be familiar with ASTM B117 (salt spray test), ASTM B137 (coating weight specs) and UL 746C UV exposure resistance testing.

I'd never heard of those requirements before. So which would you consider "hard anodizing"? Would the comply?

I too had an SSR gas cap fade in a week of sun exposure. Seven days and it was orange. Meanwhile other anondized parts on the bike have stayed black far longer (three years) with the same UV exposure. When I contacted SSR to see if they wanted to stand behind their product they told me that a local anondizer would gladly re-anondize it for me. That is of course once I paid them to re-anondize it. I'll eventually get around to that, but in the meantime I won't be buying any other SSR anondized products as I don't believe they have any desire to stand behind their product even in extreme cases of dye failure.

Seven days.

Weird. *My* SSR black shifter that many now love is black. Been out in the sun quite a bit, still very black.

Showa's fork tops that were red/blue, now pink & cotton candy.

STM gold plugs - light yellow now.

Rizoma? Still very black or very silver or very titanium colored (reservoirs)

CycleCat titanium color - just regular silver now

SpeedyMoto titanium color - still a darker gray

Febur suspension arch - mirror shine (thanks simichrome!)

Corsair Axle Adjuster Plates - Gold, and still very gold

Corsair Red Frame (Tail) Plugs on Stinsons bike - Pink

Luck of the draw, folks.

Yeah, I expected it to fade eventually, but a week isn't acceptable in my opinion. It's one thing for a product to fail, another for the company to say "huh, bummer man, good luck". I'm sure plenty of folks have had decent luck with them and I don't want to actively discourage someone from placing an order with them, but their approach to customer service has turned me away from them.

any monkey can do hard anodizing.  those reqs are DOD specs for what they want to see in an anodized item. 

point is, you CAN make an anodized part UV-fade proof.  110 million anodized M16 rifles can't be wrong.

Anodizing: The Carbon Fiber of the 80's.

You pay the opposite of a premium for SSR parts.

Really, i think the aluminum they choose is poor, something about just doenst feel right. Not sure what type of Al they use either. Their anodizing is poor and it reflects on their price.

6061, pretty common. 7075 is more fancier.

i thought you had the rizoma billet arch?

actually, i think its not rizoma, as theirs was still more hoop in shape, with more bracing, the Motowheels M900 project bike *I think* had the Rizoma.

Either way, its billet. and mirror-like when not covered in road grime.