Ill be ditching both my upper and lower triple in the next week and Ive got a rough idea on what to do and the order to do it in but I just wanted to run it by those that have done it before to make sure.
first I would support the front from the frame to take the weight off the front end
then remove my headlight (its mounted to the forks directly)
then loosen and remove the top triple
then remove the clip ons
then remove the forks with the wheel still in place (zip tie the front brake lever to the fork for protection)
then use the stupid little tool to allow the steering stem to slide out
then go backwards
that about it?
you can also "hang" the front end. I just use some soft ties on the frame right where the steering head is (you may want to stablilize the bike though as it can "swing". A rearstand works great). I found the el cheapo harbor freight come alongs work great as it allows you to raise and lower the bike as necessary. All you need is a beam in the ceiling to hang the comealong from.
you might want to measure things first.
mark your forks with painters tape where they line up with the lower fork bottom if the new one's are the same size, etc
maybe reverse the last two. ie take the lower triple out with the front forks still on. then take the forks off when the assembly is laying down
All those parts being removed as one may be a little awkward to work with weight wise.
If you got other people helping you, I guess that will work.
I'm always working on my bike alone, so I'd have to break it down more.
YMMV
+1 to working alone vs workign with someone.
how i would do it, working alone. However you want to support the front end is fine, but for me it would be...
1) remove wheel, lights and all that jazz
2) remove forks
3) remove top triple
4) remove lower triple
and then go backwards. the forks and wheel weigh a lot and is a really big chunk. Dont forget that you will need to jack the front REALLY high just to get the forks to slip out with the wheels on.
There's a really handy M10 thread in either side of the horizontal cylinder that I used for holding the bike up. I just got some long M10 caphead screws and nuts, and threaded them into the holes for 20mm or so, then flogged the nuts up to clamp them tight. Then I put chassis stands under the bolts. Very easy, and a good solid support for the bike.
im swapping the regular triple with a paul smart sport 1000 triple (ill be cutting the damper mount off) so im not sure measuring the height will equaitable. Im also starting to try and figure out how to mount the gauges now and the best ive come up with since i havent recieved the part yet is some very stiff bar that bolts to the spot where the iginition is on the PS bike and then has holes to mount the stock S2R guages. The piece would basically be one straight bar with 2 holes on either end and 2 holes in the middle.
I was planning on putting the bike on a front stand to get an acceptable working clearance then using a set of jackstands with a bar through the trellis to support it while I work. I suppose dropping the front wheel wouldent be too hard but then I have to worry about the calipers pushing the pistons out (not a big deal but still an added stress) and lengthens the process considerably.
The good news is this thursday is my first day of work at Motocorsa here in portland, ill be a "tech assistant" (which is a probably the classiest name for "shop pregnant dog" ive ever heard) and ive already got the go ahead to do the work there off hours when there is room (hence the desire to do this quickly by removing the front end all in one piece). I doubt they will step in and help me but im pretty stoked ill have access to some of the necessary specialty tools and perhaps a second set of eyes on some of the finesse portions like properly setting the fork height.
The only places to put a bar through the frame is too high for jackstands.
When I have no other choice, I'll throw a 2"X4" (or is it a 2"x3") under the horizontal cylinder (between the header), and then on jackstands.
From your posting, it doesnt sound like you have too much experience taking this stuff apart. How much time do you think it will take? (also how much time are you allowing yourself to do this in?)
You can jack the bike up via the header pipe or the header nut. not the most secure place, so make sure you hold the rear of the bike down with rearstands or a chock.
Quote from: He Man on August 16, 2010, 05:58:38 AM
From your posting, it doesnt sound like you have too much experience taking this stuff apart. How much time do you think it will take? (also how much time are you allowing yourself to do this in?)
You can jack the bike up via the header pipe or the header nut. not the most secure place, so make sure you hold the rear of the bike down with rearstands or a chock.
I havent had any experience beyond what I did to mount the clip ons. I havent thought about any specific time frame, (maybe 4 hours?) Ill have to talk to the guys at the shop a bit more, im sure they have a tried and true method for swapping out triples (or at least supporting the front end). I kinda just wanted some input so that I wouldnt look like a complete idiot at my new job
jackstands on the frame sliders?
Just ask them what their perfered method of jackign the front is.
for me, its a jackstand on the horiztonal cylidner header stud. I would jack up the front with the rear in a chock.
i dont recommend you do this at their shop on your first few days on the job.... especially since youve never done it before, so your going to spend a lot of time going, uhhhh what? looking through manuals asking people for help etc.
just my opinion, you dont need that many tools to do it. you could just borrow them. I would really just do it at home and take my time.
the main reason I asked them is because I dont have a garage. its either at the shop or in the cab companies parking lot 2 floors below my modest collection of tools. I definitely wont be doing this in my first couple of weeks but im really not that worried about getting this particular project done. I may not have done it before but I know how it all comes apart and goes back together well enough that I feel I can get it done with very little hands on help and a bit of oversight.
not trying to knock on you if thats what i sound like. lol
If you read your stuff, you should be fine. its not hard to do, but it is hard to resist the urge to do other things while your there... like grind the cast marks off your triple...maybe throw in some roller bearings... powdercoat the triples while you have the chance. etc [evil]
I'll be doing the same thing in a few days. I know I'll have a rear stand to keep it upright. The exhaust bolt and the m10 threads are good ideas for lift points.
well im using the sport classics and I like the look of the uppers and have about a week to mod the lowers while I save up for the tapered bearings (might as well! ;D). the lowers are cast aluminum right? so I can....yeah....not even gonna try and resist any urges to mod. ;D
this week another friend of mine needs me to help out in the pits at the track so i might earn some brownie points to get into his garage instead of the work garage.
gonna be a fun end of the season [moto]
There was a video on YouTube where some guys went through the whole deal, replacing the head bearings too.
Wasn't on a Duc, but IIRC they got it all done correctly.
Think it was from England.
Keep in mind that on a rearstand and a jack under the motor, it's a bit tippy if you manhandle it.
Better with a rearstand, jackstands and a pipe under the horizontal cylinder.
Put a folded shoprag over the pipe to avoid scratching the cylinder.