Think I got this figured out.
Brake light works with the foot brake (rear). But, not the hand brake (front). I've checked the micro-switch and the little ball goes in/out (not stuck). Most likely cause? Bad micro-switch? Anyone know an easy/quick replacement or point me in a direction to order one online (trying to translate it to Japanese is a bit difficult)?
Thanks
What kind of bike/brakes?
Are you sure it's the switch?
Monster M400. Bone stock.
Did you just check that the ball is free to go in and out or did you check that the ball is actually going in and out when you move the brake lever?
I pulled off the micro-switch from the lever and pushed the ball in and out with negative results (ball went in/out/no blinkie).
Then yes, the switch is make the beast with two backsed.
I just checked www.woundedduc.net but didn't see one.
Good luck finding a used one, it took me forever to find a clutch lever switch for my S4 b/c I refused to pay retail for a new one.
If new isn't too expensive, I'll pick up a new one. But, is it officially called a "micro-switch"?
The switch on my 750 went out. I was able to find a replacement (took a bit of "adjustments") at radio shack.
Check TOB for possible solutions. What kind master cylinders are on the 400, coffin or remote sytle? I have no idea what a stock 400 has on it.
However, IIRC, when mine broke, the brake light (bright) would stay on continuously.
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Re: Brake light not working when using front brake
« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2008, 12:50:02 PM »
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Quote from: 64duc on May 18, 2008, 12:37:58 PM
Radio Shack keeps the switch in stock in all their stores for $1.99 plus tax.
The part number is 275-016A. SPDT Submini lever switch. EDIT: Or 275-0016 depending on which side of the packet you're looking at. Uh?
From the "other" site.
400 is just like a stock 600, 620, etc. I've got coffins. Unfortunately, in the world capitol of electronics, I have no radio shack...
Quote from: slowpoke13 on June 07, 2008, 03:28:24 AM
400 is just like a stock 600, 620, etc. I've got coffins. Unfortunately, in the world capitol of electronics, I have no radio shack...
Can't find a boat headed your way? ;D
We're inport Yoko. I'm sure I could find an electronics store and hopefully explain my problem and hopefully get a clerk that speaks some english and hopefully they have what I'm looking for.
If Radio SHack stocks them, it would seem they must be a fairly generic item. Hopefully.
I'm sure. Unfortunately, I won't be able to check for a week and a half. Ohh well...
Trust me though, what is "fairly generic" in the states is anything but here. But, it works both ways too.
Quote from: slowpoke13 on June 07, 2008, 03:48:45 AM
I'm sure. Unfortunately, I won't be able to check for a week and a half. Ohh well...
Trust me though, what is "fairly generic" in the states is anything but here. But, it works both ways too.
How long does the mail take between here and there?
2-3 weeks depending on underway time. Usually, no longer than that.
Lemme know if you want one sent...
Before condemning the switch follow the wires from the switch down and check the cheesy bullet connectors.
I had the same symptoms as you about 2 months ago. I drenched the switch with WD40, tapped it lightly with a screwdriver a little bit, fiddled with the button and it was now intermittent. Soaked it in WD40 again, tapped it a little more, let it dry overnight and it's worked ever since with no problem.
Andy
I'll chime in here because I had this problem also after purchasing my '03 620 this spring.
In my case I was pretty sure it was the switch, but I did check the bullet connectors first, it was pretty easy to do.
These are the connectors (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valvefloat/2418021320/sizes/o/)
Those were fine, so next I tackled the switch.
1st round I took it apart, found nothing obviously wrong, put it back together and it worked,
for a while.
Round 2, I cleaned the contacts of the switch with some 600 sand paper, bad idea?
Anyway this worked, for a while.
Round 3, took it apart again, some more 600 grit, this time wet with brake-clean, and then
cleaned the contacts with a blast of brake-clean. So far so good with round 3, going on about 2 months.
Here is where the switch is located. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valvefloat/2417203825/sizes/o/)
Detail of the switch (https://www.flickr.com/photos/valvefloat/2417204021/sizes/o/)
To remove the switch, hold the little nuts ;D and unscrew the screws.
To disassemble the switch, slightly bend out the four little tabs, I used an exacto knife, while pulling
the switch apart.
Don't bend them too far.
PM sent.
:)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049718&cp=
Here it is.
Came across this by chance, thanx for the info, now have to find a electronics store in South Africa that`s got these little buggers [thumbsup]
i've had to replace mine twice now. But i had the problem of the light staying on when you engaged the brakes then let off. seems that switch is shite.
the ducati part will cost you about 35 i think
Quote from: slowpoke13 on June 07, 2008, 04:23:20 AM
2-3 weeks depending on underway time. Usually, no longer than that.
I'm pretty sure I've got an OEM Ducati replacement one (or it might be an OEM Brembo part) in the shed somewhere - you're welcome to it if you want it posted from Sydney...
big
Big, thanks. But I think a biddy from the states is going to ship me one. If you sent it to me, it'd have to go all the way to SF, CA and then here to Japan. It would take an eternity. If I'm ever down that way again though (last time, didn't have enough notice), I'll make sure to find you.
Scott
Quote from: Le Pirate on June 10, 2008, 04:45:45 AM
i
the ducati part will cost you about 35 i think
I bought one the other day after diagnosing it as the problem. Dealer told me the MSRP was $44 US. He charged me $40 cash and actually installed it while I was drooling over the Ducs, Biomota's and Benelli's in the showroom.
yes, old thread. but my switch finally went completely kaput so it's time to replace it.
Any ideas how the wires should be soldered on as the part from Shack doesn't have a pig tail and I'd rather not screw it up?
so I cut off the old switch, connected some blade connectors to the wires, and then tried different combinations until I found which worked. this switch has each pole marked and the ones that work are "nc" and "com"
now for some reason it's not working. I'm a bit stumped. It was intermittent a little, and worked when I wiggled the wires, so I clamped down the connectors more hoping to get a better connection. But now nothing...
fuse is good. the switch wasn't very cheap I hope I didn't ruin it somehow. /sigh
i checked the continuity in the switch and the wires and to my untrained eye it all appears to be OK. why it's not activating the light still remains a mystery to me.
Is there another fuse somewhere other than the fuse box to worry about? I did blow the fuse somehow thursday night but I replaced it and since then has continued to be OK. by the way, whoever designed the fuse box cover is a make the beast with two backsing sadist. that thing tears up my fingers.
Any suggestions on what else I can check?
so I started eliminating things to see what's the deal.
disconnected the switch from the wires, tested for continuity between the switch and the bullet connectors, all good. hooked up the switch and tested for function of the switch at the bullet connectors, all looked good. removed supa brake, removed custom tail light. hooked up OEM light, worked fine. OK, figured the Supa Brake was fried. Hooked up custom tail light, worked fine. Hooked up Supa Brake, still works fine.
wtf.
Either way, it appears I have a working hand brake tail light switch again. We'll see what happens after riding it for a reasonable distance.
Check the wiring loom where it goes past the steerer. The wires often break there.
argh
washed my bike yesterday for the first time in months and now the switch doesn't work. it was flickering yesterday so I think I must've got some water somewhere. I was hoping sitting overnight would dry things out but apparently not.
as suspected, there was a break in one of the wires somewhere. swapped it out with some spare copper while I had laying around and now it works perfect. For today. we'll see tomorrow.
/sigh
on a whim, for some reason, tested my brake light and the switch at the bars isn't working. again.
I cannot figure out what the deal is here. More testing later when I'm not so hung over.
maybe it's time to get the banjo switch?
Do you have coffin or pee cup style masters?
Quote from: ducpainter on May 26, 2013, 08:35:49 AM
Do you have coffin or pee cup style masters?
pee cup.
so I investigated a little more when I was more awake. Pulled the switch off the master and one of the wires came out of the blade connector I used. I thought that would solve it. put on another connector, put it all together but still no joy.
The switch seems to get good connectivity from off/on on my multimeter. The brake light doesn't come on at all from the bar-switch, but the foot switch does trigger it. I bridged the two wires and the light still didn't come on, so I think the problem is further down the line.
Do like suzyj suggested and investigate inside the harness where it passes around the steering head.
Brake light and kill switch problems can hide in there.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 26, 2013, 02:09:23 PM
Do like suzyj suggested and investigate inside the harness where it passes around the steering head.
Brake light and kill switch problems can hide in there.
yeah, that's my next step. I just need to get a little further away from this hangover.
all my fretting and it was just a bullet connector behind the headlight coming undone.
easier than a harness repair. [thumbsup]