Back story - I have done little exploration on this as it just happened. Due to a full tank I haven't gone under it yet
After being stuck in some stop and go traffic I had to pull off to help a buddy. Once his problem was solved got back on the 900, all lights came on with the key. But when I hit the starter it engaged for a fraction of a second and everything died. No dash lights, no fuel pump zippo
Some cursory prodding caused the main (5 prong) relay under the seat to buzz a bit. We were right by a moto shop an snagged a replacement, swapped it in - but no change.
Some prodding of the battery cable did get variations in the buzzing, but nothing that got the bike going.
Obviously I need to start looking under the tank. Battery connections and 40 amp main fuse are first. Any other thoughts on high priority items to check?
If it was that main fuse, any thoughts on what might blow it? Logic says the starter... But any other thoughts?
The only thing I've had blow that fuse is a pinched wire from the fuel pump. Don't forget to check the grounds
As I haven't had the tank up in a while probably not a short/pinched wire going to the pump.
Any one ground more likely to work loose than another?
Any notion why that relay was buzzing?
I've gotten that buzzing and clicking before when the battery connections were crappy
Quote from: citizin on September 12, 2010, 02:54:22 PM
I've gotten that buzzing and clicking before when the battery connections were crappy
That would be my first look.
...as well as the ground under the battery tray.
If your bike has the old style ignition boxes the frame to engine ground is crucial.
Since messing with the battery cable alters the buzz you probably have a loose/dirty connection at the battery.
Remove, tighten, clean. Since the bad connection could prevent proper charging you may need to recharge the battery. A load test would be a good idea to make sure the battery is good.
Quote from: humorless dp on September 12, 2010, 02:57:46 PM
If your bike has the old style ignition boxes the frame to engine ground is crucial.
Know when they swapped? It's a 2000 900.. so it's a bit of an odd ball, being the first of the injected Monsters.
Ok battery is fine. Main ground is clean and secure and all fuses are good but the bike is still dead.
I'm assuming yes, but a dead voltage regulator would kill any life in the bike right?
Any way to test one? Or do I just have to buy a new one and hope?
No, unless the battery was flat dead as well
Then color me stumped. Anyone got further suggestions?
check the ground wire for the ECU. I left mine loose once after moving/re-routing some things, and the bike died whilst running.
Luckily, I know where to look when my bike dies after I've worked on it. [laugh]
:P
Quote from: yuu on September 13, 2010, 03:06:06 AM
Know when they swapped? It's a 2000 900.. so it's a bit of an odd ball, being the first of the injected Monsters.
If you have the first year of the injected Monster then yes, they were kind of a mongrel.
They used FI with the old style Kokusan ignition boxes. The ecu is a one year only deal too IIRC.
Have you broken out the voltmeter yet?
Ok, now that I'm on a real keyboard...
After poking and prodding, still no real change. That 5 prong relay, listed as the 'main relay' in the haynes manual is still buzzing. I've put a volt meter on it. There's a larger diameter red+orange wire that's delivering 12.2 volts to it, via the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box. 12.2v is the same as the battery.
That relay is still buzzing - I have not checked if anything is going back out of it when it's plugged in as I ran out of time tonight.
About my only new observation is that the frequency of the buzzing increases over time. No sure what that's about... but perhaps someone with more knowledge might.
I've checked the main ground and the ECU ground, both were in place and solid even before I redid them. Though having the ECU connected or disconnected doesn't seem to change anything at this time.
Checked, cleaned and reconnected a bunch of other connection points just in case... but it's still dead.
Are there 2 similar relays under the seat?
There should be I think. Try swapping them and see if the buzzing stops and everything powers up.
If it stops buzzing it probably won't start because the other relay is for the injection.
howie knows how to jump that...it's posted on the forum somewhere.
There are two. The problem child is the 5 prong 'main' the other is 3 prongs for the turn signals.
Quote from: yuu on September 13, 2010, 04:56:27 PM
There are two. The problem child is the 5 prong 'main' the other is 3 prongs for the turn signals.
So they're not 'similar'. ;D
I guess that year didn't use a 5 prong injection relay.
Let me do a quick search...brb
check this out...
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27309.msg475912#msg475912 (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=27309.msg475912#msg475912)
Thanks DP
Yeah they are both relays with odd numbers of prongs... In a similar configuration.... But I don't see your point :)
Yep that's the little buzzing bastard! I'll have to see what happens if I jump it per howies directions.
I've got power to that relay [thumbsup] so now it just needs to go some place.
I'm going to be a bit irked if the brand new relay I bought was a dud.
There is a possibility the relay has a bad coil, but I don't think you eliminated a bad battery yet. The only way to know your battery is good is with a load or conductance test. Battery voltage is only showing you state of charge. 12. 2 is also not fully charged, though it is pretty close, 75% if conventional, less if AGM.
Short of that is to either bypass the relay or jump start with a known good battery. You could also bench test the relay. Hook a known good battery across 85 and 86 on the relay. The relay shoud not buzz and you should have continuity at 30 and 87 with an ohm meter. Also make sure terminal 86 is a good ground. One easy method is take a simple incandescent 12 volt test light. Hook the clip to battery positive. Touch the probe to terminal 86 in the connector. You should get a bright light, as if you put it across the battery.
Thanks Howie - I'll brake out the jumper leads and do some bench testing.
Well, the winner is a bad battery. A donor battery brought all the electrics back to life.
I'm a bit miffed the that the battery has died as it's not all that old, a bit more than two years.
My last battery lasted less than a year! Luckily, as it became completely dry (and very hot) the bike was still able to start and drive, at least long enough for me to detour to the nearest city for a new one. I, too, ride a 2000 900.
I think my battery's untimely death was at least partly the result of keeping it on a Battery Tender too much. I'd connect it and leave it connected until my next ride, which over the winter was often two or three weeks. At some point I noticed that the water level was low, but then forgot to add more water to it before heading off on a road trip.
The battery in this case was a 'maintenance free' sealed one. So no checking the acid levels on that one.