Why did my transmission get stuck in gear?
M695 with 17k miles. 10 miles into a ride today, the shifter would not move out of 3rd gear. Linkage was solid as a rock and would not budge up or down. Clutch was working correctly. No funny noises or clunks. I suspected the rearset linkage, but all was good there. Began to limp home, testing the shifter frequently +/- clutch, when all of a sudden shifting was back to normal. 100 more miles in the twisties without issue. I've owned the bike since new and this is the first time this has happened.
Sound familiar to anyone?
I'm due for an oil change and clutch pack replacement, so I might remove both covers for inspection. Any tips on where to focus some attention are appreciated!
BK
Check all the springs and the shifter mechanism for adjustment under the left cover.
You are due for a clutch pack replacement?
Can you explain?
Quote from: seevtsaab on October 04, 2010, 11:16:41 AM
You are due for a clutch pack replacement?
Can you explain?
Long story there. Was getting some clear and not so clear indications of slippage after a service. Changed back to my usual oil right away and most of the symptoms receded, albeit slowly over hundreds of miles. Both oils were proper moto oils, but my bike has a distinct preference for MX4T. An odd "slippage" remained at certain WOT conditions, so I acquired the parts/tools to change out the clutch pack at my convenience. Over time my WOT "slippage" also mostly went away, but since I have the bits I will change out the clutch pack anyway (and set big nut torque, etc.). As an aside, I recently found a very loose exhaust clamp for the V cylinder - the one under the bike - and I'm now wondering if my WOT "slippage" was a fueling thing instead of clutch thing.
So, "due for replacement" based on function/slippage/purchased parts as opposed to mileage. ;D
I'm told that typically the wet APTC clutch pack lasts many, many miles.
BK
Quote from: humorless dp on October 04, 2010, 03:38:44 AM
Check all the springs and the shifter mechanism for adjustment under the left cover.
I looked at the parts diagram and workshop manual. The basic checks can be performed with the flywheel attached, correct? Manual says to remove the flywheel, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
BK
Quote from: BK_856er on October 04, 2010, 12:25:40 PM
I looked at the parts diagram and workshop manual. The basic checks can be performed with the flywheel attached, correct? Manual says to remove the flywheel, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
BK
Yes you can inspect everything. I believe you have to remove the flywheel to make an adjustment. You would definitely have to remove it to replace the return spring.