Ducati Monster Forum

So I heard this is the spot to post my progress... Frame is now powdercoated black.

The story is that a member of the local drag racing forum is deployed in Afghanistan. While mildly active on the forums, he proposed a deal with me for his 1998 M900 with the below goodies. A GREAT DEAL!!!! He gets back next week, so I'm stocking up on the beer. Coincidentally, I'm off from work for at least a week, so I get to spend some precious time with the Ducati. It's gonna be a good October.

I used to ride a 1981 Suzuki GS650 and a 2002 Buell Blast. Both were sold for the ducati, but both were immensely fun bikes. If you ever get a chance to putt around on a Blast, take it!

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/REin8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/Rein7.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/REin1.jpg)


Not in the pics:
Cyclecat Billet Triple Trees
Rearsets
Keihin FCR41's from Cycleworks
Misc. Bodywork (Carbon Fiber)
14T sprocket ( I think)
New Fuel pump amd assorted gizmos!

Schweet stuff, matey!!!!

Obviously the bike hasn't been getting enough action... it's got blue bolts  ;D

All in good time!

As I wasn't the one who tore it down, and the above mentioned friend is in travel from deployment, I have a question. From what I can see in the servicemanual for the m900, the only bolts/points that are attached to the motor are the swingarm pivot, and two bolts on the frame that go through the engine, right? Rear shock goes to the frame, correct?

The shock connects to a rocker. One side takes the shock, the other that hoop on the swing arm

Well, my friend is due in on saturday. Can't wait! Also has Dyna coils too!

Reading up on the FCR's really scares me sometimes. The Zuki was enough for me power wise, and I was thinking a stock 900 was gonna be more than enough for me, but then i hear that the FCR's turn monsters into... monsters! I might recoup a whole bunch of my money back by selling of the FCR's and getting another set of carbs. Original carbs were dismantled by the previous previous owner and of course... he or she lost some parts.

Good luck w the project!

A pic of the dashboard would be nice, looks like an unusual one.


And DO NOT sell the FCRs, M900 w them are a match made up in heaven..... [thumbsup]

Noted, will at least give it a go and ride it for a few months and see how I like them. Will get pics of the dashboard by saturday, if not sunday. That's most likely friday or saturday for you conus folks.

If you go this route, PM me.  I'm very interested.

Good luck with your rebuild!

based on your flooring, I want to say you are in Italy?

Italy? I wish!?!

Guam USA!

Wednesday here, 10:00 AM, ETA of the Duc is 3 days, ARGH!!!!

Oh well, more reading to do on the DMF!

Also, as I'm going to Dyna's, FCR41's, K&N Filters, and have some sort of CF exhaust, not sure if it's slipon or full, don't even know the brand yet, will I need some ECU mod to make the bike function correctly? Or will the FCR's supply enough fuel?

Your bike does not have any devilish fuel injection, on the purity of carbs (the FCRs)  ;D

Alright! So the FCR's should dump more than enough fuel to compensate for the better spark of the dyna's, and extra flow from the exhaust. Hopefully just minor tuning will be needed.

Go for just a slipon, full system is f engines w extensive internal mods.

The 2 square boxes on ech side of the coils on battery box handles ignition, you have no ECU.

Check your carbs has this jetting
http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/fcr_faq.html (http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/fcr_faq.html)
and you`ll be fine.

From the photos - they are just slip ons. If it was a full system, you'd probably see a better match between tubing sections.

One option might be to have the headers and s-pipes of the slip ons (or even all the metal parts) ceramic coated. This would clean them up and give them a unified look + cut down on some radiant heat. Good news is that you won't need to disassemble the cans to do the s-pipes like some folks have had to. Just remove the two springs and it should pop right out.

If you do pull the headers off - you'll want to replace the gasket that sits between the head of the engine and the pipe. I just pulled the headers off my '00 900 and that gasket was looking way tired. Good news is for a Duc part, they are cheap.

A random suggestion - if the battery is in need of a replacement look at a SpeedCell. They are a good bit more than a normal lead-acid battery, but about 1/4 the weight and 1.3 the size. One of the cheapest ways to dump 7 pounds of dead weight and allows for some possible tucking of misc stuff in around the batter box. I was able to move my bulky PowerCommander (which you won't have/need) from under the seat to the battery box.

Fcr's are the cycleworks kit, so it should have everything. Headers are already off, like in the pics. Where's a good place to get the gaskets?

I was told I'd have to fabricate an airbox to move the battery to fit the dyna coils, but is it really necessary? I guess they don't have the cycleworks bracket kit.

No ecu? Just cdi? Sweet.

The ca-cycleworks dynacoils kit used to fit fine until dyna changed the shape/size of the coils. You may still be able to fit the kit just fine without removing the airbox.

Some people (like me) do remove the airbox to put pod filters (K&N 1750 if I recall correctly) and build a battery box out of a sheet of aluminum. It's pretty well descibed on the ducati suite site (http://www.ducatisuite.com/jetkit.html).

CAVEAT: if you go from an closed airbox to pod filters you will need to re-jet the carbs. though you might not need to if you have an open airbox (i.e. the top part was cut off to expose the air filter).

To my understanding, isn't the keihin fcr41 kit already jetted for pod filters, as they include them with the kit?

What main jets are in the carbs?

155 mains

That's what came stock in mine.

The literature with the carbs said that they were jetted for a stock bike. Chris Kelly at Ca Cycleworks jets 'em to baseline a bit on the rich side to allow for pipe mods, etc from what I remember. He would have to make a judgement call not always knowing what his customers are going to do. He and his crew are very helpful.
Give him a call to see what he would suggest for pods or open air box. His jets are very affordable and he is a true believer for the marque like most of us on the forum.

155s may be ok in your part of the world but I ran 165s with pods, pistons and open air box and 170s with open air box, pistons and substantial porting. I think our fuel in Oz is a little different though.

I also feel that giving money to an accomplished dyno operator is a good investment. This is even more the case with testing main jets! Dyno testing is cheaper than speeding tickets and visits to the ER. Chris may have a good recommendation that saves you dyno time.

Makes sense, but why would the kit include the pod filters, but not have the appropriate jets?  Would it be better just to run the stock airbox till I get the right jets in?

Moving the bike to my garage tomorrow, waiting for the title before we do that.

Among the parts list, Termignioni slipons, Cyclecat triple trees, rearsets!!!, and clipons! New fuel pump, clutch master and slave! Nichols Bar sliders! lots of goodies with the bike. Haynes manuals, Desmo times upgrade and maintenance manual, and receipts! Woohoo!

It's an M900 Dark, lots of carbon fiber as well.

Even if the pods came with the FCRs from the vendor, they may or may not be jetted for them, depending on who the vendor is and what they were told. Did they come from Cal Cycleworks? If so there is a good chance they were jetted for that application. It's worth having the conversation. I would tend to run the stock air box unless you get information to the contrary. I would call/email Chris to find out his recommended baseline for pods, get the jets if needed, and save myself some spanner work.

As mentioned earlier, FCR's came from cycleworks, which includes the K&N Filters as part of the kit. Well, I'm a ways away from putting in the carbs anyways, so  I'll shoot Chris a quick email or a phone call and find out what's going on in the kit.

Cool.
Sorry I missed that (somehow). Will be interesting to see what he says.

Here's a question, from the oil cooler are two lines, apparently supposed to go to the carbs, that's what the previous owner told me. I was told that I'd just have to block off the lines, what do they do?

The lines aren't from the oil cooler, they are from the intake manifolds. They are vacuum lines. The FCR just don't use them. You can just cut them short and plug the end of the tube. Make sure you put a hose clamp on to keep the plug in place.

Are they just bundled to the oil cooler lines? They look like they come right out of the oil cooler and have banjo fittings on the end.

Are they braided lines to a banjo to each float bowl? If they are oil lines from the cooler to the float bowls, then they could be a carb heating kit that many claim are only marginally effective. You wont need them with the FCRs. I would get the original oil line kit as it's much tidier.

+1 on koko, oil lines f bowls.
You can remove them & plug holes, works fine f me.

Yup, braided lines to a banjo. When you said they were vacuum lines I thought "but vac lines aren't pressurized!?". Some digging online reveals a carb heating kit to prevent icing. No need for that on an island like mine, haha

Thanks for the help so far, lots if good information on this site!

Cheers [drink]

Where I've got her so far:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/IMG_0102.jpg)

Now, a question, what does the swingarm pivot look like? It's supposed to be a big rod, like the rear axle, just not threaded right? Previous owner is on the lookout for it, since he's got some extra parts that he's got laying around still.

Previous owner found it, will put the rear wheel and front forks on tomorrow.

Peek at some bling:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/34432_1655969322523_1335789042_31684431_2846647_n.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/IMG_0107.jpg)

almost there!

Here's a dilemma.

PO had a crank turning tool, it broke off, and one of the tangs is in the keyway where you put the tool in. What to do? Is there anyway to turn the engine otherwise? I tried just turning the pressure plate, but it takes a lot of effort, and it stops turning at a certain point.

EDIT, she turns all the way! I just needed some leverage and to remove the spark plugs

Elevate the rear wheel, put it in top gear and turn the rear wheel.

do you think that the tang thats in the keyway will come free? it may go floating..
maybe look at sorting that...

I think it broke off in a way that wedged it in there. I may take a small screwdriver and knock it free, if not, then a dremel. Does the keyway go anywhere?

I took her for a ride around the block today.

Nearly shit myself when the front wheel came off the ground!!! Absolutely in love! FCRs + 14t front and 39T rear is absolutely ridiculous!

 [thumbsup]

Yes yes, I'm a believer, but t's still just as scary as I thought. There's no way to get over the fear except by riding the beast!

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/IMG_0191.jpg)
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Excuse the lack of updates... But can you blame me? I've been riding heavily. Enough to blow the right fork seal. Ugh. Allballs fork seal kit is on the way!

Sold the CC triple, as I'm saving up for  either IMA triple set, or SBK conversion. Painted the stock triple with some enamel and then cleared it, looks really good! Although, it has raised the gauges a bit, enough to make a noticeable amount of negative space above the headlight, since the CC triple is half the height of the stock triple. Lowered the CC clipons. Wanting some of the neat 3 piece woodcrafts, but the adjustability of the CC's are amazing! I've seen clipons mounted farther than right below the triple, but are there any negative side effects to this?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/IMG_0356.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/aaronferrer/IMG_0359.jpg)

Lower back pain :)  It's just going to give you a more aggressive riding position, but it's also going to put some of your weight over the front end which is a bonus on a bike like the Monster. 

The build's looking good BTW.  I would have kept the Cycle Cat triple :)  Also, as far as the gauges are concerned, you may pull the triple off and mount them down beneath.  Look for threads on modifying the u-bracket, or you could do what I'm working on and get rid of it entirely and go with a fork mounted headlamp.