Stripped these. I'm assuming just drill them? The rearset is broken and the bolts seemed slightly bent from miles and miles of riding it like that or from the drop several years ago that snapped the rearset.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/DSC_0007-1024.jpg)
Anything to do but drill? I obviously don't want to damage the engine case ~
JM
Drilling should be your last attempt. Try hammering a torx into them. The torx should cut into the head and the hammering will help freeing the fastener
I'll give the Torx a shot. Thanks!
JM
Better still use a hammer operated impact driver with the torx.
2 broken 1/4" sockets (got a 1/4" allen tip to fit one of them) and one snapped (spiral/torque break)6mm Allen socket later I've got nothing. I don't have an impact driver. These are STUCK to the point I'm breaking name-brand stuff. It's Kobalt stuff from Lowe's.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/Snapped.jpg)
Blue circle - 1/4" allen tip. Plenty to get a grip or socket on, but I've snapped two sockets
Red circle - Remnants of my 6mm allen socket. Just a small amount, maybe 2-3mm sticking out.
JM
Did you use a "TORX" bit like everyone said or an Allen. The torx has worked for me in the past with stripped allen heads.
I don't have a torx large enough. Not to mention the weak point is what I've been putting on the end of the bits to turn them with. The allen heads that are currently in the bolts are holding fine, so fine, I'm breaking my tools trying to turn the bolts.
JM
You need to pick up an impact driver.
Either that or a heat gun...or both.
You should be able to find one for short money and it will be an invaluable addition to your tool box.
I've got a good heat gun. I'll put the impact driver on my wish list.
Since you mentioned a heat gun, would heat help here? I'm fairly certain the bolt shanks are slightly bent. The one I broke my 6mm allen socket on hasn't moved at all and now I'm not sure how I'll get the socket piece out.
JM
Can't hurt, but I really thin that corrosion is the issue.
The impact driver will help break that free.
If you get the bit out which you should be able to do with a punch and some judicious tapping in the right spot...
don't be shy...heat up the area on the case so you don't melt the rubber and hit the things with a hammer and spray some pb blaster or other penetrant.
Then use the impact driver that you've been wishing for. :P
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882)
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html)
http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grip-Hand-Impact-Driver/dp/B0006V2GPU (http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Grip-Hand-Impact-Driver/dp/B0006V2GPU)
....don't forget to order a 1/2 -3/8 impact reducer ;)
I've already got penetrating oil on them. I'll fuss with getting the broken piece out. I've never had a bolt stick like this. I'm thinking corrosion is part of the problem since I ride in all weather. I'll then give some heat a shot, hopefully I can get someone on that bit that won't break.
JM
I had the same problem in the same place, and kept breaking hex bits. A Snap On 'L' hex with some additional leverage twisted about 90 degrees before the bolt started.
Got the broken piece out. Heated the case and put as much pressure as I dared so I wouldn't snap my other 6mm socket. Still nothing. More penetrating oil and it'll set until tomorrow. Here's a pic of what I did to my 6mm.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/BitSmall.jpg)
JM
Put a flat ended punch down in the bottom of that hex, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer.
You're gonna be real stubborn about the impact driver...huh? ;D
What's the cost of the 6mm hex bits?
Quote from: humorless dp on October 25, 2010, 03:06:57 PM
You're gonna be real stubborn about the impact driver...huh? ;D
What's the cost of the 6mm hex bits?
+1 [roll] before you muck up the hex's
Since the bolt faces are pretty large, a cheap man's impact wrench would be a sharp center punch, angle it to the bolt face and give it a few good raps to loosen.
If it were me dealing with this:
I would just cut the remaining rearset piece(s) completely off the bike, it's trash anyway, and then work from there. At that point more meat will be available to use larger tools.
by the look of the broken tools it looks like someone has used hi strength loctite thread lock
you need to deactivate the thread lock , thos little cig light flame torches are good, get some good heat into the bolt
wost case drill the head off then you will be able to get some vise grips on the left over bolt
DarkStaR's got a good point. [beer]
drill a hole through it. say goodbye to the rubber, put a torch and heat the bolt from the inside. slott it with a grinder and put the edge of a flat screw driver on it and bang it out.
this may be a stupid question, but i have always wondered this...
could you heat the bolt with a soldering iron? just like touch the tip to it for a good while?
i know my soldering iron gets up to like 1200° F... which would do the trick for red loctite, right?
It might, Corey. I use that trick on smaller bolts. Some bolts have so much mass/metal that soldering irons have trouble keeping them hot.
No wont transfer all the heat and it still won't get hot enough. Get a small torch like everyone says. Do not cut the bolt if a socket still grabs it.
Quote from: humorless dp on October 25, 2010, 03:06:57 PM
You're gonna be real stubborn about the impact driver...huh? ;D
i don't know how anyone could work on a bike without one
they sure deliver a lot of bang for the buck
I'll check my local places, not working on the bike tonight.
FWIW - last reassembly of this (I know for sure, because I reassembled it post the black paint) had a very light amount of grease and no locktite on the threads ~
JM
Quote from: humorless dp on October 25, 2010, 03:06:57 PM
You're gonna be real stubborn about the impact driver...huh? ;D
What's the cost of the 6mm hex bits?
Really, this is the best next step.
Make the investment.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM1494840501P?vName=Tools&keyword=mpact+driver&sLevel=1&prop17=mpact%20driver (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM1494840501P?vName=Tools&keyword=mpact+driver&sLevel=1&prop17=mpact%20driver)
Mr. Gordon from the Black Mesa Facility says to use this... works everytime he says. I tend to agree with him.
(http://vitanuova.loyalty.org/crowbar.jpeg)
Quote from: He Man on October 26, 2010, 11:44:15 PM
Mr. Gordon from the Black Mesa Facility says to use this... works everytime he says. I tend to agree with him.
(http://vitanuova.loyalty.org/crowbar.jpeg)
i loved Half Life!! [thumbsup]
(http://nola.humidbeings.com/_user/images/larges/1385fdd0e0dcde8b419758d81f614431.jpg)
(loved halflife too ;D)
Quote from: howie on October 26, 2010, 10:26:09 PM
Make the investment.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM1494840501P?vName=Tools&keyword=mpact+driver&sLevel=1&prop17=mpact%20driver (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM1494840501P?vName=Tools&keyword=mpact+driver&sLevel=1&prop17=mpact%20driver)
http://www.desmotimes.com/product171.htm (http://www.desmotimes.com/product171.htm)
less of an investment, DesmoTimes approved
Got the impact driver. Still have stuck bolts. I'm using a 20oz hammer and the same twisting pressure that snapped two sockets and a allen socket.
JM
Get a hammer ;D
I use a 3 pounder.
here's the way i would approach this. either drill or grind the head of the bolt. completely remove the rear set. after doing that, you would have access to the remaining piece of the bolt. heat the area where the bolt on the case with MAP gas, then use a pipe wrench to muscle it out. yeah you have to get new bolts, but seems like this has been going on too long.
Quote from: humorless dp on November 01, 2010, 07:23:00 PM
Get a hammer ;D
I use a 3 pounder.
Haha... 3 pounder! that's not a hammer that's a MANAMMER.
Do you use it for finishing nails as well?
Quote from: Veloce-Fino on November 01, 2010, 07:33:36 PM
Haha... 3 pounder! that's not a hammer that's a MANAMMER.
Do you use it for finishing nails as well?
The whole idea of an
impact driver is the
impact part.
The twisting force is secondary.
...and no...I back it up to 16 oz for finish nails...even better is the trusty finish gun. ;)
Quote from: humorless dp on November 01, 2010, 07:23:00 PM
Get a hammer ;D
I use a 3 pounder.
BFH The same one I use. I have two impact drivers one from WalMart which is a useless piece of junk, and one from KD tools that is 35 years old and still works great. You get what you pay for.
You can always tell a mechanic by the size of the hammers in his toolbox. [laugh]
how did you make out?
Haven't gotten my hands on a big hammer yet ~
JM
At this stage, I think you've probably tried every thing short of drilling, but you may want to cut a slot (like a flat blade screwdriver) through the head. Then use an old screw-driver and hammer as a drift. My guess, is that this wont work and you will end up drilling the head off.
Get a set of stub-type easy outs (like the ones on top)
(http://www.dansmc.com/easyout.jpg)
Heat the bezeezus out of the bolt, and use the impact driver on it. If that doesn't get it out, I'd get out the dremel and remove every bit of material you can, then drill and re-tap the hole.
(I'd drill the head off the bolt as an absolute last resort. If the methods you've tried so far haven't worked, getting a vice grip on the theaded area of the bolt won't either)
Another method would be to have a welder weld a larger bolt to what you have left, then get a larger wrench on it. I can't tell if what you have there is steel or aluminum.
Quote from: dlearl476 on November 08, 2010, 04:36:34 PM
Get a set of stub-type easy outs (like the ones on top)
(http://www.dansmc.com/easyout.jpg)
ill pay good money to see that snap on a bolt thats stuck proper. EZ outs are my worst nightmare, they are ONLY good for bolts that arent stuck.
Quote from: He Man on November 08, 2010, 04:47:52 PM
ill pay good money to see that snap on a bolt thats stuck proper. EZ outs are my worst nightmare, they are ONLY good for bolts that arent stuck.
You're learnin'.... ;D
So I've beat myself and the bike senseless with the impact driver. No joy so far. I've yet to get a bigger hammer on it, I may locate one today and give it a whirl.
JM
Have you been keeping it soaked in PB Blaster or Kroil? Over time either can really work some magic.
Big hammer and a torch. You can get one of those nifty tiny butane models that has a very focused flame or just get a cheap standard propane model at the hardware store and be a little more careful.
Heat the head of the bolt, the heat will travel down into the threaded section. Then give it the business with the big hammer and impact driver. No combination like surgically applied fire and brute force. Keep an extinguisher handy, I think some of the stock rearsets have rubber grommets that they mount with.
Scott
i've found that lots of heat (as in, heating the bolt to a dull glow) + a driver hit with a 3lb sledge will work better than an impact gun. but mostly it's the heat.
if all else fails, just drill it out and either tap the new hole or use a helicoil. you've already wasted more time and frustration than it would have taken to do this.
If you have a TIG welder available weld a nut on the head and use a wrench [drink]
I have a HF 4lbs hand sledge we call "Vlad the Persuader".
It tends to loosen a bolt right proper.
Been sick & busy, so I haven't been in the garage. Currently, I've borrowed my dads air impact gun. I'll at least try it. I do spray it down with penetrating oil every day or two. I'll get my hands on a big hammer.
I am still fairly certain I'm dealing with a arched bolt shank that's creating the bind thats stopping the turning.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on November 21, 2010, 07:08:14 PM
Been sick & busy, so I haven't been in the garage. Currently, I've borrowed my dads air impact gun. I'll at least try it. I do spray it down with penetrating oil every day or two. I'll get my hands on a big hammer.
I am still fairly certain I'm dealing with a arched bolt shank that's creating the bind thats stopping the turning.
JM
An air impact won't work the same...it will most likely strip the fastener head or break the socket.
It just twists...the hand impact driver twists and drives inward.
Quote from: the_Journeyman on November 21, 2010, 07:08:14 PM
I am still fairly certain I'm dealing with a arched bolt shank that's creating the bind that's stopping the turning.
Keep working it with heat and tools and impact. Worst case the head snaps off and then you can drill what's left but you don't want to drill unless you have to. If the rearset is trashed already you could cut that away from around the bolt to get more purchase on it.
Scott
Quote from: humorless dp on November 21, 2010, 07:14:03 PM
It just twists...the hand impact driver twists and drives inward.
Yup, wound up finishing off one of them.
Still nowhere. I'm hitting the hand impact driver as hard as I dare while the bike is on the stands. The whole bike is wobbling around. I don't have anything that can cut the rearset off. I'm guessing that I'm heading toward drilling.
I am attempting to drill with a small bit a hole into the one that won't budge at all. I'm thinking that if it'll relieve some pressure and allow me to heat deep into the bolt. We'll see where than gets me ~
JM
Geeeeeee... just reading this thread......... My Rizoma rearsets should be arriving any day now. For my 2004 S4R with 35,000km on it! After seeing this, im scared shitless..... i was just going to use a L shape Allen Key to loosen the bolts.... is this the right way to approach it.... I dont want to end up like Journeyman (poor fella, i feel for you!)
Any tips on how to attack this from the start?
A quality allen socket is a good start.
Quote from: howie on November 23, 2010, 09:40:39 PM
A quality allen socket is a good start.
So no allen key??
Does the bike ride? You can always find a local machine shop and bring it to them. They have tools and experience you don't and usually don't charge much.
Scott
Quote from: cakeman on November 23, 2010, 09:46:44 PM
So no allen key??
Good tools are your friends. A good socket on a ratchet or an allen T wrench will give you more leverage and control. If the fastener is not corroded or overtightened the allen will work.
Are you sure your turning it the right way? ...Just kidding... ...kinda... [cheeky]
Time for an update. When in the teens in the garage, I had to put this off a little while.
Quote from: cakeman on November 23, 2010, 09:10:34 PM
Geeeeeee... just reading this thread......... My Rizoma rearsets should be arriving any day now. For my 2004 S4R with 35,000km on it! After seeing this, im scared shitless..... i was just going to use a L shape Allen Key to loosen the bolts.... is this the right way to approach it.... I dont want to end up like Journeyman (poor fella, i feel for you!)
Any tips on how to attack this from the start?
Unless yours are over-tightened or stuck, an allen socket or wrench will be fine.
Currently, I have the rearset off, BUT the bolts are still stuck hard and fast. At least I've got something to grab now and work with.
Quote from: scott_araujo on November 23, 2010, 10:23:25 PM
Does the bike ride? You can always find a local machine shop and bring it to them. They have tools and experience you don't and usually don't charge much.
Scott
Nope, on front & rear stands in the garage with no wheels mounted.
Here's what I did.
1. Got a 1/2" bit & drilled the caps off the bolt. See example. This left the majority of the bolt and allowed removal of the rearset.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/DSC_0207-1024.jpg)
2. Slid the rearset off, leaving behind the kickstand bracket and exposing the shank of the bolt.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/DSC_0206-1024.jpg)
Now, I just need to get a grip on the exposed shank and put some serious pressure on them and hopefully not snap the rest of the bolt. We'll see. I put my largest pair of channel pliers on them and got nowhere. It just slid right off. Another dose of PB and I'll try again later.
JM
I can't remember if I posted here or not ( didn't look) but you should of used a left hand drill bit. When you use a right handed bit, the bolt gets tighter and makes it even more impossible to remove. Also, if you wanted to make this a bit more simplier, use a mini propane torch pen and heat the bolt up wack it with a brass punch and hammer and then try to remove it. The heat will melt any thread locker and expand the bolt to crack any rust.
You can also try to use a dremele and put a slot in it then take a brass punch and try to wack it out ( i wouldnt use a blade of a screw driver because its sharp and it may actually just shear a chunk off)
first thing id really do is weld a bar on to it. that would work for sure. but if that option is not avilable and if you have as steady hand, ive had a lot of luck just drilling out the whole bolt leaving a thin shell and peeling the shell out. Takes a bit more time and patience, but it works. Not recommended though, one of those things u have to do a few times to get the hang of.
best of luck.
also, glad to see my bike is not the only one with chunks of road grime and built up wax!
Didn't think about the left-handed bit thing. Odd thing is, on partially unthreaded (maybe 1-2 turns before it totally stuck. I'm hoping that even once the bolts are removed the threads in the case are still usable.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 19, 2011, 03:00:54 PM
Didn't think about the left-handed bit thing. Odd thing is, on partially unthreaded (maybe 1-2 turns before it totally stuck. I'm hoping that even once the bolts are removed the threads in the case are still usable.
JM
Try screwing them back in a 1/2 turn or so and then back out a little till they bind up.
Keep doing that while spraying and you should be able to work them out.
I've tried, it's really weird, but when the one that moved then binded, it REALLY binded. I'm going to try heat again, the bolts have been soaking in PB all afternoon.
Why didn't I buy a AMF Sportster. All I'd have to do is start it a rev it good and they're rattle free...
JM
http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors (http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/screw-bolt-extractors/bolt-extractors)
Get these and conquer those f'ers!
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 19, 2011, 04:01:25 PM
I've tried, it's really weird, but when the one that moved then binded, it REALLY binded. I'm going to try heat again, the bolts have been soaking in PB all afternoon.
Why didn't I buy a AMF Sportster. All I'd have to do is start it a rev it good and they're rattle free...
JM
Why are you using channel locks?
Time to bust out the vise-grips. ;D
Or weld a spare lug nut to each and put the impact on it.
;)
Quote from: Monsterlover on January 19, 2011, 04:41:04 PM
Or weld a spare lug nut to each and put the impact on it.
;)
Great idea if I had a welder...
Might try the vice grip route. Maybe a big slot cut into each one and a hammer + chisel or something. I didn't realize bolts could stick this good.
JM
Do you have any sort of a grinder?
If so, consider grinding 2 flats on those studs to give your vise grips or channel-locks something to hang onto. . .
I do have a side grinder, and I was thinking about giving the shank a flat edge for better grip. That's on tomorrow's list. We'll see after sleep & work.
Thanks for the inputs folks! I'll keep updating.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 19, 2011, 04:01:25 PM
Why didn't I buy a AMF Sportster. All I'd have to do is start it a rev it good and they're rattle free...
JM
It's funny cause it's true. Had a '77, lost the shifter peg three times while riding. Had to reach down and suicide shift with my hand the whole way home...
Whack those puppies with a hammer, heat 'em with a propane torch, and then got to town with vice grips. Fewest special tools, no welding to fry the ecu, and it if doesn't work then no harm done.
Scott
Quote from: humorless dp on January 19, 2011, 04:40:23 PM
Why are you using channel locks?
Time to bust out the vise-grips. ;D
My thoughts exactly :)
Quote from: He Man on January 19, 2011, 02:56:54 PM
snip
also, glad to see my bike is not the only one with chunks of road grime and built up wax!
You're not alone.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y239/Jervisaurus/Bikes/DSC01533.jpg)
JM, looks like these cats have everything covered. Lots of manly beating of bolts and PB blaster should do the trick, just don't get impatient or extracting bolts could be the least of your concerns.
Quote from: He Man on January 19, 2011, 02:56:54 PM
also, glad to see my bike is not the only one with chunks of road grime and built up wax!
Quote from: Jarvicious on January 20, 2011, 10:14:40 AM
My thoughts exactly :)
You're not alone.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y239/Jervisaurus/Bikes/DSC01533.jpg)
That's because we ride our bikes like they're s'posed to be ridden!
Special thanks to dp & Monsterlover.
1 side-grinder + 4 flat sides to the shank + one pair of vice grips = Movement on one of the bolts!
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 20, 2011, 02:19:28 PM
That's because we ride our bikes like they're s'posed to be ridden!
Special thanks to dp & Monsterlover.
1 side-grinder + 4 flat sides to the shank + one pair of vice grips = Movement on one of the bolts!
JM
Back and forth...don't force it.
It may not hurt to give the vice grips a tap once you have them latched on to the bolts either. If they moved in the right direction, give the vice grips a tap or two in the other (tightening them back up) then loosen again. I advise being very careful, though, about the strength of the taps. You basically want the pliers and hammer to act like an impact driver, so little baby taps starting towards the bolt and working your way towards the handle of the vise grips so you don't shear the bolt or strip off those flats you made.
P.S. - You can use whatever baby hammer you have lying around. A 3 lb sledge is not necessary, and dare I said frowned upon :)
Finesse is going to be be necessary with bolt #2. I moved it 1/16 of a turn maybe. I sprayed it with PB and quit for the night. I'll remember the slow working + tapping. I did get the rear-most of the two bolts free and out. It's nicely galled. Pics later.
JM
Progress! Well done! Yeah, now that it's moving more lube, more patience. It has some space to seep in there now. How do the threads in the case look on the on that came out?
Scott
Haven't looked at the case yet, but the threads on the bolt were still there but showing come galling. I'm sure a little cleanup on the threads might be in order. I'll post a pic of the bolt tomorrow ~
JM
Run a tap down the hole to chase the threads and you'll be good to go.
Be careful how far in you go with the tap, you can strike oil.
People have done that?!?!
What's wrong with stopping when the tap hits bottom or the last thread and then backing it out?
I shouldn't talk. I've had a tap on the end of a 1/2 drive impact gun ;D
It was a big pipe tap but still ;D ;D
I'm the one Speeddog's referring to above. I did run the tap in until it stopped, unfortunately for me the engine casing was SUPER thin and we heard a tiny metallic pop sound. Put the rearset bolt in & went home. Next morning there was a small oil puddle under the rearsets.
Ended up expoy-ing in a double-ended stud and it's been leak free since.
Back to the bolt at hand: If it were me, I'd get a LOT of heat into the engine case surrounding the remaining bolt. Heat makes things expand, so why heat the steel bolt so that it expands into the engine case? Also for consideration: Aluminum conducts heat better than steel and the case is much larger than the bolt is so a LOT of heat will be necessary.
Also, when the case is hot, use the penetrating oil then as it will work better (when it's not smoking up the whole garage) when there's larger space between the bolt & case.
Just be really careful with oil and fire... Nobody wants to read about how you USED to have a garage.....and eyebrows!
A trick ive seen but never used was to heat the bolt up and put a piecve of wax to it. The heat will draw the wax in and act as a dry lube.
Quote from: Speeddog on January 21, 2011, 07:05:23 PM
Be careful how far in you go with the tap, you can strike oil.
There's a special type of tap called a bottoming tap. It's not pointed, it's got a flat bottom and threads all the way to the end. It's made just for tapping blind holes all the way to the bottom.
Scott
Quote from: Duck-Stew on January 21, 2011, 07:38:19 PM
I'm the one Speeddog's referring to above. I did run the tap in until it stopped, unfortunately for me the engine casing was SUPER thin and we heard a tiny metallic pop sound. Put the rearset bolt in & went home. Next morning there was a small oil puddle under the rearsets.
Ended up expoy-ing in a double-ended stud and it's been leak free since.
I can vouch for the leak free. ;D
Quote from: He Man on January 21, 2011, 09:14:20 PM
A trick ive seen but never used was to heat the bolt up and put a piecve of wax to it. The heat will draw the wax in and act as a dry lube.
This does work.
heating the area around the bolt and spraying pb will do the same thing.
Capillary action will draw it in.
Ok, Here's the pic of the one I got out. Threads in the case look in, there's a little debris in there, but it's dry and loose so some air will take it out.
The bolt:
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn168/the_journeyman/Molly/DSC_0210-1024.jpg)
Now, for the bad news. Heat, penetrating oil, tapping etc did not move the bolt. I'm marking a drill bit so I don't go too deep and drilling out the center of the bolt. The bolt snapped off about 3mm inside the case, so there's nothing left to grab.
Once I get the center of the bolt drilled out, would it still be ok to heat the case before I used something like an easy-out?
JM
After removing most of the center of the bolt, I have a slightly off-center hole. It looks like, when looking into the hole, the bolt just oxidized badly, like there was some water or something trapped in the space between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the hole. Putting the easy-out on the remains of the bolt is just chipping away at the remaining bits of the bolt.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 22, 2011, 02:24:13 PM
After removing most of the center of the bolt, I have a slightly off-center hole. It looks like, when looking into the hole, the bolt just oxidized badly, like there was some water or something trapped in the space between the end of the bolt and the bottom of the hole. Putting the easy-out on the remains of the bolt is just chipping away at the remaining bits of the bolt.
JM
I've had luck grinding a punch at an angle and removing the remains by 'folding' it into the middle and then using a pick or needle nose pliers to pull the piece out.
Common problem with using an easy out is to drill too small a hole and use too small an easy out which is then more prone to breakage. Then you are really screwed. I would drill the largest hole that my off center beginnings allow me and use the largest easy out I can fit in there. If the threads get 'buggered', is there any reason this hole can not be drilled out and tapped for the next larger size fastener?
Or packed with jb weld then redrilled and tapped the same size.
Quote from: alibaba on January 22, 2011, 08:53:48 PM
Common problem with using an easy out is to drill too small a hole and use too small an easy out which is then more prone to breakage. Then you are really screwed. I would drill the largest hole that my off center beginnings allow me and use the largest easy out I can fit in there. If the threads get 'buggered', is there any reason this hole can not be drilled out and tapped for the next larger size fastener?
This is pretty much what did. The easy out is making progress, but still leaving stuff behind. Since I've removed the core, and there's a little space past the end of the bolt, I've sprayed PB down in the hole with the hopes it helps. Basically, I'm at the threads on one side with the easy out and have about 1.5 mil of material at the thickest on the other.
If you go too far, that hole can be filled with welded aluminum and then filed flat, re-drilled and re-tapped. But, sounds like you're making good progress!
I like the sound of that Stew, but have zero welding experience and no welder. Lets hope I can rattle the remnants out with the easy out (using diameter only slightly smaller than the bolt) and clean up the threads.
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 23, 2011, 08:02:39 AM
I like the sound of that Stew, but have zero welding experience and no welder.
snip
JM
It would be a pretty cool story to tell though. You know, about how you rode the bike down to the welding shop and suicide shifted by hand all the way there. ;D
Just a thought here. Since I'd rather get the broken pieces to move, is it would it be possible to use my manual impact driver + easy-out to knock it loose? On the drill, the easy-out is just chewing up the remains and I'd rather break them loose.
I wouldn't use an impact driver on an EZ-Out.
If the threads do get buggered, it can be refurbished with an insert.
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 23, 2011, 08:30:18 AM
Just a thought here. Since I'd rather get the broken pieces to move, is it would it be possible to use my manual impact driver + easy-out to knock it loose? On the drill, the easy-out is just chewing up the remains and I'd rather break them loose.
Did you understand what I was describing with the angled punch?
That will do exactly what you want.
Not sure about the angle.
Am I hitting the punch straight on against the remaining bolt piece? Punch ground to help rotate the bolt piece or to pry between the case and the bolt piece?
JM
Quote from: the_Journeyman on January 23, 2011, 11:23:19 AM
Not sure about the angle.
Am I hitting the punch straight on against the remaining bolt piece? Punch ground to help rotate the bolt piece or to pry between the case and the bolt piece?
JM
Typically a punch is ground flat at the tip in relation to the striking surface. Grind a 1/8 or 3/16 one at a 45 degree angle.
Take the tip and use it to get behind the edge of the remains and push it away from the case. If you start at the thin edge it will fold in and make the thicker part fit into the space available.
Nice, got it! i'll give it a shot! Thanks!
JM