So, I'm just waiting on exhaust gaskets before I fire up the M900, but I want to do it right. The motor hasn't been run in at least two years, due to the po's 5 deployments in 5 years, but when he did have a chance, he turned the engine every so often after squirting some oil in the cylinders. I believe this because the owner was just as enthusiastic about this bike as I was, and everything was methodically disassembled prior to powedercoating the frame.
For the last week or so, I've been squirting some oil and marvels mystery oil (once) and turned the engine with the crank tool a couple of revolutions. Already changed the oil and filter, bolted up the fcr's and routed fuel lines and manual fuel valve. Starter indeed turns the motor as well. Just waiting on those damned gaskets.
Any other precautions I should take? Belts are new, valve shims are on order, but non of them are too tight or too loose. Haven't done a compression test as I don't have a fitting that size, but might cannibalize a used spark plug and braze it to my least used adapter. However I can hear air rushing out when I turn the crank by hand, poor mans compression test of putting your finger on the spark plug hole blows it clear off.
You say the belts are new. As in you just changed them? Or they were new 2 years ago?
Quote from: Heath on November 04, 2010, 09:28:25 AM
You say the belts are new. As in you just changed them? Or they were new 2 years ago?
Just changed them. Exact fit from cycle works.
sidebar: which manual fuel petcock are you using?
Quote from: a m on November 04, 2010, 04:34:55 PM
sidebar: which manual fuel petcock are you using?
I bought a manual 5/16" on off valve, after the fuelfilter, before the fuel pump.
i saw that, i was wondering which one? MotionPro or something else?
Quote from: 671M900 on November 04, 2010, 02:14:50 PM
Just changed them. Exact fit from cycle works.
ooooo your bike can pick up a van now.
Oil in engine? Just checking.... ;)
"Run" beside throttle in correct position? Could be tedious otherwise.
I`d check you have some slack in throttle cable & that idle cable push throttle just a mm or 2 to start with.
Feel it up w throttle first,
like your first encounter to a new womans intimate areas, talking delicate here....
Too much lift on throttle - hard to start.
Heated (new I take f granted) plugs & a small shower of starting fluid also helps.
Good battery necessary!
+1 to GM's comments.
I'd say plumb up a known good oil pressure gauge and light that thing off.
Quote from: greenmonster on November 04, 2010, 05:36:52 PM
Oil in engine? Just checking.... ;)
"Run" beside throttle in correct position? Could be tedious otherwise.
I`d check you have some slack in throttle cable & that idle cable push throttle just a mm or 2 to start with.
Feel it up w throttle first,
like your first encounter to a new womans intimate areas, talking delicate here....
Too much lift on throttle - hard to start.
Heated (new I take f granted) plugs & a small shower of starting fluid also helps.
Good battery necessary!
+2 on GM's tip[ for starting,A few squirts of the accelerator pump and just enough off idle to get a fast idle.
Quote from: a m on November 04, 2010, 05:05:05 PM
i saw that, i was wondering which one? MotionPro or something else?
Oops, sorry, It's a twist on and and off motion pro, although I like the looks of the 1/4" one, I may switch to that if I have no problems with the 1/4" size.
alright, will give it a twist or two and see if she'll start with that. So with carbs with accelerator pumps, like the FCR's, a twist of the throttle should create a slightly higher idle, right?
Sorry I might have been unclear.
You give it a few full twists to prime it with fuel.
Hold the throttle just open a few mm just to get a fast idle. You will get a feel for how much. You will also get a sense of how many squirts of the accelerator pump you will need.
Mine needs at least four squirts in winter and a couple in summer.
Starting is the only time you would miss the stock carbs.
Quote from: koko64 on November 05, 2010, 03:18:33 AM
Sorry I might have been unclear.
You give it a few full twists to prime it with fuel.
Hold the throttle just open a few mm just to get a fast idle. You will get a feel for how much. You will also get a sense of how many squirts of the accelerator pump you will need.
Mine needs at least four squirts in winter and a couple in summer.
Starting is the only time you would miss the stock carbs.
No, I understood it, i was just wondering if the extra fuel it squirts creates a slightly higher idle after twisting the throttle when it's running.
Here's another question, how do I prime the carbs themselves? Will filling the gas tank provide enough gravity feed to prime the float bowls? From what I understand, the vacuum fuel pump really only comes into play after a certain amount of fuel is depleted in the tank, right? Otherwise it just helps flow a little. I was thinking of switching to an electric, low pressure fuel pump instead, just an idea.
The vacuum from the starter turning the motor will pull fuel into the float bowls.
Quote from: koko64 on November 05, 2010, 03:31:48 AM
The vacuum from the starter turning the motor will pull fuel into the float bowls.
Awesome, hope I don't have to turn it too long. Gaskets missed my island and went to the post office on the island next to mine. Rerouted and on the way... GAHHH!
Quotei was just wondering if the extra fuel it squirts creates a slightly higher idle after twisting the throttle when it's running.
No, just a bit flooding/boost. f the start, like the old flooding button on old Amals f e.
& +1 on testing oil pressure asap.
hmm, can I use the fittings for the carb heating kit? When I cranked it over, oil came out the fittings, haha!
Quotecan I use the fittings for the carb heating kit?
No, pretty sure w FCRs, oil line & cooler holes need to be plugged.
Do not remember dimensions but not so much pressure there.
Easy fix w medium Loctite.
IIRC, used a shortened 4mm wood screw w flat head (!) at oil line,
cooler had unusual threads, very fine 8mm?
So, negative on using the Carbheater fittings for oil pressure? Where should I hookup an oil pressure gauge?
I did not get you ment the oil p gauge, maybe that`s possible, dunno.
The gauge I had used the oil pressure sender indicator hole front of clutch housing.
Edit: As speeddog says, IIRC little rusty sometimes nowadays....
The oil pressure switch is right behind the oil filler.
It's an M10x1 thread, so you'll need an adapter fitting.
Yeah that heating kit only fitted stock carbs with special 'oil jacket' float bowls. Toss it into the box with the stock carbs and get an original or fancy oil line set up. The FCRs don't freeze up like the stockers and if you have a harsh enough winter for them to freeze you won't be riding.
You are really fortunate the bike came with FCRs. They are great carbs.