Ducati Monster Forum

I'm going to have my ECU flashed with DP specs and have the immobilizer deleted as part of a dash swap. I've read many times on this board that lots of folks have had their bikes flashed by the folks at Desmo Porsche (now Houston Superbikes) successfully and that is currently my plan as well.

I've also heard a number of folks that have had issues with fried ECUs, bad maps, and being without a bike for weeks even months.

Now I know how the internet works and how to filter through hearsay, so I'd like to get a few preferably firsthand experiences on how the flash worked for you. Secondhand info is okay, but if it gets to be "my third cousin's sister's husband had it done and the bike caught on fire and killed their dog" then please by all means, keep it to yourself :D

If you wish to remain Anon, feel free to PM me.

 [popcorn]
in the same boat.

My bike developed an exhaust popping problem after my 7,500 mile service. I attribute it to having the emission canister removed and resetting the TPS. I also had throttle lag at low RPM’s ever since I bought the bike. I could not stand my bike running this way, so I had my ecu reflashed by Houston Superbike this August. It was reflashed for a full system rather than just slip-ons, so I have the flexibility down the road to go to a full system. I also told them not to deactivate the immobilizer.

My bike now longer has an exhaust popping issue and the throttle lag is gone. I did not really notice any hp gains, but I did notice that once I turned off the bike with the key the headlight stays on for a couple of seconds. I am very happy that the throttle lag and exhaust popping is gone.

I've had 2 done thus far.  The first 1 of those ecu's had odd issues in it and when it was re-flashed it simply didn't work.  I got a replacement ecu for that first 1 and had it re-flashed (Bobby didn't charge me for a re-do BTW), and it worked EXACTLY as described. Fueling was spot-on and immobilize issues were gone.  The second ecu I had Bobby do was perfect and neither of my customers has complained of a single issue.

First bike is an 06 SC1000 that got the full DP map and immobilizer turned off.  Bike is running DP cams, open air-box lid and the full-race Zard system.

Second bike is a DS1000 motored Monster with pod filters and a FlightCycles custom exhaust.  Ecu was set to full DP specs w/immobilizer turned off.

If I ever need this service again, they'll get my $.

sweet.  I'll take mine with me on my next trip to Houston and get'er done.

Thank you, that's exactly what I was looking for. The reviews I've seen have been about 50/50 on the first try, but that they always were properly taken care of in the long run. I waited to do this over the winter in the event it didn't so smoothly the first time around, so I should be good to go.

I don't think that Bobby did anything wrong on my first ecu.  My customer complained of random strange issues for months before we did the work.  I would die during rides. Immobilizer issues all the time. 

Kudo's to Bobby for likely fixing an issue that wasn't his doing (IMO)...

Oh certainly, let me make sure I'm clear, I'm not blaming DP or Bobby personally, I think it's just a complicated ECU and sometimes it doesn't work the first time. A fair number of the threads regarding the flash include it having to be sent back again, sometimes the entire ECU is replaced on DP's dime. I just wanted to make sure that the folks that have dealt with them have had a positive result in the end even if there were some hiccups along the way.

I'm pretty happy with my ECU from Houston Superbikes. I chose the full system version, but I noticed it runs a bit richer. With the garage door open it will still make my eyes water when idling, but there are no lean surging issues at all. I've only reset the TPS and not messed with fuel trim. I still have the regular closed airbox with the full system map. Overall, very happy with the new ECU.

wtf. not a great plan. you'd be better off with the slipons map or opening up the airbox. i'd like to see what kind of power it is(n't) making on the dyno with a full system map and no way to breath. stock pipes or aftermarket? stock midpipe or aftermarket?

Zards full system, K&N filter, closed airbox.

Uhhh I think you're supposed to get an open airbox lid for that setup, or you will run rich. :-\

If I decided not to go with DP/HS (takes too damn long to type the full name) are there other options out there to have the immobilizer deleted and the performance tune added?

Could I just tune the fuel trim more lean?

Why? They have good feedback. There are others, yes. I think Ducati Depot does it.



Again, why would you do that? The easiest and most correct way to deal with it is to just chop the airbox lid. Your ECU is programmed for a full system, and it assumes you have an open/freeflow airbox. It's a static program; it does not adjust fuel mapping in real time like cars do. Detuning the injection trim is a step backwards. You are running the incorrect airbox lid for the rest of your setup. Running rich won't harm the engine like running lean will, but if you like smelling gasoline and low mpg then by all means. You see, when you increase the fuel input like you have done with the full system map, you need to increase the airflow into the engine concurrently.

I think DesmoWorks is doing it as well. I've had nothing but tremendous experiences with Anthony as well, so if I am correct, I'd poke and prod you that ways

too rich = fouled plugs.

plugs on quattros and strettas aren't as convenient as on 2vs

I've had PMs from a number of members that haven't had the best luck. It's still possible I will go with them, but I'm exploring my options.

There's likely nothing inherently wrong with DesmoPorsche's process on reflashing ECUs. They are just as good at doing it as anyone else is. If you have problems however, they will help you to work them out. That's enough, yes?

And I'm merely saying that I'm exploring my options to know if there may be a more local solution or one with a better track record. Simply due diligence. That's enough, yes?

So... whatcher sayin is, his bike (probably) won't blow up.

Moto Wheels has a unit that lets you do it yourself. You tell them what model/year and what state of tune you want, immobilizer disable, etc and they program the unit. You plug that unit into your ECU and it pulls the old (stock) map off and puts a the new one on. It has some other handy features, too, like being able to read/clear service codes and adjust trim/CO numbers. No first hand experience, but that's the route I intend to go.

I assume you're talking about the Nemesis? As much as I like it, for the mild gains I could get I can't justify the scratch. I'm more interested in the immobilizer delete than the added power, but hell, who ever turned down free extra power?

You probably mean the ProTune Professional unit. It's not cost effective for individuals. Art what I'm saying is any place that does it is likely to suffice. Since we do have documented feedback that DesmoPorsche has good support in the event of mishap, which I would assume is rarer than success, it would make sense to me to have them do it. It probably doesn't matter at the end of the day where you send it, I just don't know of anyplace on the east coast, they all seem to be out west.

I completely understand where you're coming from, and as I said, odds are good that I'm going to send it there. I have only looked at previous threads on the topic and figured it was worth asking if perhaps this was a more common service than I realized. If there might be someone closer that I could ride to, flash, and ride home knowing it was set up properly (in addition to having the TPS reset and trims adjusted without having to borrow a cable) as opposed to having the bike down in the event the first go round doesn't go as planned I would prefer that route. That doesn't seem to be the case though so I'll probably still ship it out to the DP/HS folks.

How is $500 not cost effective for an individual, especially when it allows me to A) re-flash my original ECU back to stock tune should the need/desire ever arise (selling the bike or, heaven forbid, exhaust emissions testing.) and B) increases my ability to do my own maintenance? Granted DP/HS will sell me a completely "new" ECU re-flashed to my specs for $450, but then I'm left at the mercy of my dealer ($80/hr) to get my gauges to quit flashing MAINT every 6,000 miles.

Quick solution to that, get rid of your OEM dash ;)

I meant the Pro model which has the ability to program different maps for different bikes. The $500 only gives you one map for one bike. If you just want a DP ECU w/ immobilizer delete it's more cost effective to just have it done. Less hassle as well. If you sell your bike what's the advantage in going back to the stock map? A DP ECU looks better in a for sale ad than a stock ECU, even if you have already parted the aftermarket exhaust/airbox and have refitted the stockers. One less mod the new owner will have to pay for and will make your bike that much more attractive. BTW, the user can reset the service light by following a simple procedure involving turning the ignition on then off and holding one of the dash buttons down for a few seconds. Do a search for the specific process, it may even be in the owner's manual. That's how I reset the service indicator after I adjusted the valves on my motorcycle myself. I am not at the mercy of any dealers. I know this bike better than most of them already.
Besides, you can just let the MAINT keep on flashin', doesn't harm a thing.

I've had my DesmoPorsche Reflashed ECU for a few months now. DP spec ECU with usual mods (open air box full exhaust ect.)
Very happy with it.
I did all this from Australia.

The problem that I'm having here is that there is "no single" answer. Anyone who choses to modify thier intake/exhaust, has to decide many things. I just don't get it. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but does having the stock ECU reflashed do the same as the DP. Then, do you need a PCIII? and or Nemesis. Then, there are the other mods that may or may not require re-tuning. Cams, high comp pistons. If you have the ECU reflashed, and you do more mods later, then you need to send the ECU back and have it all done again.

I have been researching the same topic and am about to do it, here is what I have found (assuming you have an S2R)
1. Get the DP/reflash ecu (they are the same thing), then you will be happy with a full system, open air box.  This will make it open loop. (you could add a PCIII if you want to but it is not needed)  The immobilizer delete lets you swap out guages without changing the ecu in the case of a crash or modification.
2. When/if you start doing cams and big bore kit, add on a PCIII, with dyno time.  Now because you are open loop the PCIII will adjust fueling across the complet power band
3. If you go farther than this a fully tunable Nemisis or other ECU is in your future.  FYI--Once you get past step 1. the words "cost effective" no longer apply.

Case

Exactly, Case.
You can go way too far with this stuff. Reflashing with an immobilizer disable and a freeflow intake+exhaust should satisfy the 99%ers. After that it's big money for diminishing returns, especially on a 2V wet clutch bike. As an S2R800 owner, I have the DP ECU and airbox, and freeflow exhaust. It has helped with the low RPM range a great deal, roll-ons are smoother and slightly stronger, and the redline was increased a bit. I can now poke around smoothly in traffic at RPMs as low as 2k with no snatching but peak brute force power hasn't been changed much. Just smoother all around, with the feeling that's it's running as it should. You're not going to extract massive power gains without expensive engine work and the fueling mods to match. At that point it's easier to just get a more powerful motorcycle, which will likely come with better suspension and brakes to go with the extra power. 

07 S2R open air box, full Arrows.  Got the reflash from Desmo Porsche, had the dealer adjust TPS and still getting engine hunting (pulsating) at idle.   Anyone else having this issue?  Other than that bike is much smoother and civilized to ride at low RPM's, around town and slow 2nd gear turns. 

S2R isn't enough of a descriptor for any help. S2R 800 or 1000?

Sorry, 1000

Joe it's a twin, it will never be smooth as glass at idle. Check for vac leaks. Synch the throttle bodies and bump the fueling up a couple of points till the plugs are light brown.

heres a tutorial/review I did on his ECU reflash


http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44634 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44634)

Bookmarking as i may get my ECU done this year.

I just got mine reflashed by them and got it installed a few weeks ago.  I have a 07 S4Rs with a full exhaust and I opened the airbox at the same time I had the remapped ECU installed.  I went with the full race map, disabled the O2 sensor but left the immobilizer alone.  I dealt with Bobby there and his service was really good.

Before the remap (when I was running the full exhaust on the stock ECU), but bike ran pretty well.  Idled well, etc.   The only issue was a slight burbling on decel.

After the remap the burbling seemed to disappear.  The bike runs well and seems maybe a bit faster, but it's hard to tell for sure.

My concern is that the bike has stalled a few times in the five or six rides I've taken it on, where it had only done that once in the year prior.  It hasn't happened on the last few rides though, so hopefully it was just a glitch or something.  We'll see.
Joel

maybe you suck at the clutch












KIDDING

that's "it died" rather than it stalled.

Don't think it was a glitch.  I had exactly the same issue after my remap.  07 S2R1000.  Had to have the TPS and air set by the dealer.  They didn't get it right the first time had to go back a second time. Bike runs great now.  Did you notice a huge difference when starting from 1st gear or cornering in first gear like at a stop sign?  The throttle response should be smooth instead of jerky. 

So I should probably post my own results since I made the thread and all.

Sent it out, had it back in six days, even over the Christmas holiday. Popped it in and fired right up. Reset the TPS, adjusted fuel trim, and went out for a ride.

As expected not an incredible power increase according to the butt dyno, maybe a horse or two but anyone that tells you it's a huge gain is pulling your leg and their own. The MASSIVE improvement was in low speed low RPM. Making low speed turns around town no longer lugs, and accelerating away from a stoplight requires less clutch work.

Very pleased with service and product, A+ in my book.

Banged it off the rev limiter yet? That's where you should be experiencing the hp gain from the dyno runs I've seen done first hand and from the charts of others. Peak power. But it's all dependent on what you've done - if it's mapped for a full system and you've got stock pipes or just slip-ons, then It should be rich and not too much more powah.

Making no adjustments besides TPS, I removed the airbox cover and RTV'd the filter. I let it dry for a couple days and tested the RTV. Filter can be removed easily and RTV removed from filter and airbox as well. Installed new plugs and rode as usual for a week. Still running rich (reflashed ECU, S4RS, full Zards system), so adjusted fuel trim from +5 to -5 just to see what happens. Lo and behold it runs a lot better, no decel pops, no residue on the tips of my exhaust. It seems to run a bit hotter according to the temp gauge, but nowhere near the 200's. I'm speculating perhaps the Zards full system may be a bit more restrictive than the Termis. Plugs look good (tan), so I don't feel the need to tweak the trim any further. Besides just getting the laptop hooked up is a pain let alone multiple plug checks.

I plan to have my ecu sent in for a full system re-flash as well.  I already cut open the airbox and installed a BMC air filter.  I plan on a full Sparks exhaust in the future but I will run the udder until then.   Also, for resetting the TPS and idle trim, I will get the VDST tool.  

Questions on resetting the TPS: Is this to get the full range by resetting the 0 degree or the 90 degree position?   If not reset, is the 0 position off or is the 90 position off?

Questions on setting the idle trim: What is idle trim adjustment for? Is this idle fuel-air ratio or is it just idle speed?  If it is idle fuel-air ratio, then it is probably just adjusting it with no feedback of the actual result (no exhaust gas analyzer connected).

Question on syncing the throttle bodies:   What do I adjust to sync the throttle bodies?   Usually on twin carbed motors, it's the individual throttle cable after the Y connection or on the carb itself.  I will get a set of vacuum tester to monitor the vacuum.

Questions on setting the idle air screws:  For this, do I adjust the air screws while monitoring the VDST tool or is this adjusted until plugs are mousy brown?   If these are air screws, then IN means rich (and slower idle speed) and OUT means lean (and faster idle speed)?

Billruiz, I take it that you have the VDST?  How do you like it?

The VDSTS is handy for resetting the TPS and if you have an open loop ECU, tweak fuel trim etc...communication problems between computer and ECU can happen if you get loose connections with your USB cables.

Update....was having a few issues with the bike dying and also had some odd issues with the neutral light working onlly intermittently.

Called Bobby back and he said to send the ECU back and he'd reflash it and send me a new core, even though it wasn't clear all the issues were associated with the ECU.

The ECU is on the way back to me....pretty happy with the service so far.  I'll update after the reinstall.

Joel

How'd the reinstall go? 

All these "bike died a few times" and "dash warning lights flashing" have me a bit underwhelmed with the prospect of flashing my ECU.  Seems you can buy the DP unit for 460 from Houston Superbikes.  I wonder if you are guaranteed to avoid these re-flash problems by purchasing the stock race unit.

pretty sure those are flashed ones for sale.

I'll be installing my Termi/Spark exhaust this weekend and firing up the beast!  I also have the Houston SB ecu reflash and BMC filter/open top.  I'll report in after I get it dialed in.

Bingo.

My experience was great. If you expect to buy it, pop it in and have a perfect running bike you'll be disappointed. If you understand that you will have to set up fuel trim and reset your TPS, you'll be very happy.

I finally got a chance to open mine up in the past few weeks and I can say that it wakes the 695 up more than I thought it would. Low speed is smoothed out very substantially and the top end is definitely pulling harder. Even found the front wheel wanted to come up once or twice on my last spirited ride, something that it never did on stock tuning.

<-- Happy customer.

A TPS and fuel trim reset is what, an hour of labor at any dealership?

Max, and even that's a ripoff. Take the $100 they were going to charge you, double it to buy a VDSTS cable (or borrow one for a six pack) and never have to pay for small adjustments again.

It's a twenty minute process including test rides.

I plan to buy one.  They are located about 30 minutes away and I used to work for them.  Hoping for a discount!

By doing it myself, I'm missing the exhaust sniffer?  Big deal or no?  If I can set it to 95% of what the dealer could, I'm in.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44219.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44219.0)

I posted info on there on how to adjust your fuel trim by ear using a VDSTS. Only addition is that when you go out for a ride listen for the telltale lean signs. "Coughing" through the intake and popping on decel. Just to be used as ballpark, mine is set to 14. Yours will almost definitely be different, but there's a start.

You'll be damn close to what you would end up with a sniffer.