So I just bought my first Ducati yesterday. I've test drove it twice never had any problems with it starting (I went there on two different occasions). Now this morning it won't start up at all. I checked the battery and it was at 60% so I gave it a full charge. After the initial charge I can put the key in and everything work, however when I go to start it everything dies. I can hear the starter click and then nothing. The starter won't click, lights don't work, nothing. I checked the battery again, and it's still at 100%. I'm completely at loss.
Any help will be much appreciated, thanks.
Hutch
1. battery ground wire
2. fuses
3. solenoid
the way its acting feels like a battery WIRE problem. remove the wires, wire brush everything, reconnect and torque the screws down with electro grease.
Quotelights don't work, nothing.
Check yellow ignition relay under saddle.
Remove its hood, check if it connects properly, you`ll see how
when you turn ignition key ON.
Little cleaning/sanding/bending often makes it work again.
First in the el chain, therefore no electrics work.
The above mentioned: +1.
First step is confirm the battery is good. This requires a load test. Fully charged does not mean a good battery. Or try jumping the bike with a known good battery. If the battery fails the load test you need a battery. If the bike starts with a jump either you have a bad battery (load test to confirm) or dirty/loose battery cable connections.
Good battery and you get a click? Is the click coming from the main relay under the seat or the solenoid? If you are getting a click at the relay under the seat but not the solenoid make sure the white connector on the back of the solenoid is clean and tight. Still no good? Bypass the solenoid (big terminal to big terminal). Make sure the bike is in neutral first. Starts? Replace solenoid. Doesn't start? Make sure the ground at the back of the engine by the breather is clean and tight. Still doesn't start? Apply battery voltage directly to the starter. Bike starts? clean the connection at the starter. Caution, if you twist the lug on the starter motor too much you will break it. No start? Posslble starter motor.
There's a 4" long grounding wire between the engine cases and the RH footpeg bracket bolt on the back-side. Be sure to check that one for proper ground connection while you're doing the above checks.
Had the same issue on my bike (01 m750). Turned out that the battery leads were corroding and were no longer making a good connection. Took a file to them and the connections and replaced the bolts. Haven't had an issue since
I think I've posted this a few times now. Hopefully it helps...
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You can test various parts of the system with some heavy cable. If you have a multimeter its even better.
I'm no auto electrician, but I'll run you through some tests to try to diagnose the problem. I'm assuming the setup is the same on the '97 as my '94.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/howleylongboards/starter-1.jpg)
These are not really steps. This is to be carried out when the bike isn't starting.
1. with the ignition off, run your cable from 1 and touch it on 5. This should turn the starter. (If not I guess you have an earth fault or a problem with the starter motor terminal or the motor itself).
2. Leave one end of the cable on 1 and run it to 4. This should start it also. If not you have a problem with the lead from 4-5.
3. Leave one end of the cable on 1 and run it to 3. Turn on the ignition and hit the starter. If it turns you have a problem between 1 and 3, if not, the solenoid could be at fault. Check the lead from the starter switch is plugged into the solenoid between the terminals.
3.1 If you suspect the solenoid, cable between 3 and 4. If it turns the soleniod is at fault.
4. If you have narrowed it down to a bit of wiring you can check each section with the multimeter. Check the resistance from one end to the other. Infinite resistance means a break somewhere.
I did this and ended up narrowing it down to the connector. To test the connector poke your multimeter probes into the wiring at 2, and on the lead on the other side of the connector. Hope this helps
Thanks so much guys. I'm going to start on all of this as soon as I get some electro grease from the auto parts store. Going to get the battery load tested also.
Last night I took off those fuse boxes under the seat, and I can aired everything. I even did each individual fuse. Now it still doesn't start however, I can put the key in the ignition and the lights come on. And when I try and start it in sounds like it is almost about the start but doesn't. But it still stays on now so I'm making some type of progress.
Thanks again,
Hutch
Quote from: Hutch on November 29, 2010, 04:47:25 AM
Thanks so much guys. I'm going to start on all of this as soon as I get some electro grease from the auto parts store. Going to get the battery load tested also.
I've never seen electrically conductive grease at an auto parts store. They carry the "bulb grease" which is just petrolatum or similar and helps with waterproofing.
THe stuff I am referring to is high-temp grease impregnated with some kind of metal powder, such as silver.
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9292 (http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9292)
I have used it when reassembling any wiring. It waterproofs and helps conductivity.
The bulb grease will help too, but you have to make sure you squeeze all of it out of the joint when you torque stuff down. Its not conductive so it can block current, theoretically.
I think he was trying to say "dielectric grease" which in itself is not a conductor, but an inhibitor of corrosion for exposed contacts.
I'm gonna bet bad battery connection. When everything just clicks off when you attempt to start it, it's usually a bad connection somewhere. Also, check your fuses also, when I was assembling my bike and testing the electrics, the positive lead wasn't tight and secure and everything clicked off when I hit the starter, and I blew the dash light fuse somehow.
Quote from: 671M900 on November 29, 2010, 05:37:49 AM
I think he was trying to say "dielectric grease" which in itself is not a conductor, but an inhibitor of corrosion for exposed contacts.
He was quoting my prior comment about getting electrical grease. I am not a big fan of dielectric grease for battery and starter connections on a bike -- it attracts dirt and that holds moisture against the connectors which makes it corrode just as badly.
Electrical grease actually helps the conductivity. Use a TINY amount and torque, then spray with some sort of anti-corrosive spray that dries. (S100 makes one, Eezox is my favorite) No sticky clumps of dielectric grease to suck in dirt.
Quote from: ducatiz on November 28, 2010, 03:17:44 PM
the way its acting feels like a battery WIRE problem. remove the wires, wire brush everything, reconnect and torque the screws down with electro grease.
Quote from: howie on November 28, 2010, 05:38:41 PM
First step is confirm the battery is good. This requires a load test. Fully charged does not mean a good battery.
I recently had a battery crap out on me. If I hit it with the volt meter it have me 12.6 volts... but it didn't have enough ooomph to energize the yellow relay. No lights, no go, no nothing. As soon as I was able to hook it to a donor battery we knew worked, the bike sprang back to life.
So, as Howie points out, a good showing on a volt meter doesn't mean the battery is up to the job. If you've got a buddy with a bike, ask them to buzz by and hook up some jumper leads.
Quote from: Howley on November 29, 2010, 01:28:17 AM
I think I've posted this a few times now. Hopefully it helps...
================================================================================
You can test various parts of the system with some heavy cable. If you have a multimeter its even better.
I'm no auto electrician, but I'll run you through some tests to try to diagnose the problem. I'm assuming the setup is the same on the '97 as my '94.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b157/howleylongboards/starter-1.jpg)
These are not really steps. This is to be carried out when the bike isn't starting.
1. with the ignition off, run your cable from 1 and touch it on 5. This should turn the starter. (If not I guess you have an earth fault or a problem with the starter motor terminal or the motor itself).
2. Leave one end of the cable on 1 and run it to 4. This should start it also. If not you have a problem with the lead from 4-5.
3. Leave one end of the cable on 1 and run it to 3. Turn on the ignition and hit the starter. If it turns you have a problem between 1 and 3, if not, the solenoid could be at fault. Check the lead from the starter switch is plugged into the solenoid between the terminals.
3.1 If you suspect the solenoid, cable between 3 and 4. If it turns the soleniod is at fault.
4. If you have narrowed it down to a bit of wiring you can check each section with the multimeter. Check the resistance from one end to the other. Infinite resistance means a break somewhere.
I did this and ended up narrowing it down to the connector. To test the connector poke your multimeter probes into the wiring at 2, and on the lead on the other side of the connector. Hope this helps
Let's get this diagram in "Tutorials". More than .1 tenth of a volt drop at any connection or wire is excessive resistance. .5 volt over the whole circuit is excessive resistance (any car specs, expect a little higher on your bike). Testing to be done under load (starter engaged).
So I went through and wire brushed all the connectors and making sure everything is tight. I put that corrosion protection on the battery terminals. And it is giving a little more, but still not making it to full potential. I'm about to head out and get a voltmeter now and see if I can eliminate more. But as of now I'm pretty sure its the solenoid.
Here is a video of what I'm working with.....
(http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/Hutch_85/th_IMG_0388.jpg) (http://s998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/Hutch_85/?action=view¤t=IMG_0388.mp4)
Thanks again this thread has been extremely helpful,
Hutch
Seen vid: Test or get a new battery.
Based on the video I agree with greenmonster. Want to be sure? Bypass the solenoid by jumping connection 3 and 4 on Howley's diagram with a wire at least as heavy as the battery cable.* Cranks good? Replace solenoid. Alternate is measure voltage drop over solenoid (connect voltmeter to 3 and 4, crank, and volt meter should read less than .2 volts. Do keep in mind, unless you are using a known good battery, trouble shooting is a little like pissing up a rope.
*Make double sure the bike is in neutral.
+1 on greenmonster and howie's suggestions, this looks like a battery issue.
Well I got it started. I changed the yellow fuse under the seat with one from NAPA. And this time I jumped it and it started. Came back an hour later and it still started, it stalled and died when I revved it a little. But I started it again and let it warmed up. However it is bogging really bad, some I'm going to change out the fuel filter and check the lines and see if that fixes the problem.
Thanks for all the help,
Hutch
Clean the carbs. Ultrasonic bath if you can r them or just try soaking them in carb spray