Ducati Monster Forum

after pulling my bike apart for powdercoating, I left my handlebars with controls attached hanging from the front of the bike and resting on the front fender.  They stayed like this for maybe a week and a half now.  today, I picked them up and squeezed the levers just because, and noticed there's no resistance to either lever.  I've also got the foot controls removed.  I'm probably just paranoid, but thought I'd post what I'd done and see what you all have to say.   [bang]    Parts are still being powdercoated, so I can't put it all back together yet.  thanks for any input in advance!

is there any fluid in the resevoirs?

I think so.  This probably sounds dumb, but it's really hard to see through those little windows.  I haven't opened them up yet.  There was a dribble or two on top of them, but nothing on the garage floor.

It is indeed difficult seeing the fluid level.  If you didn't keep the reservoirs more or less in the same orientation as they were on the bike you probably have air in the master and will need to bleed the brakes.  Same for the clutch.

Just to double check. You've got the calipers still mounted and the brake disks are on, right? Also for the clutch, the slave is still attached to the motor?

Yes, calipers, discs, and slave are all still attached.  good question though! 

I was afraid I'd probably introduced air into the system.  Oh well... guess I have something interesting to do in the garage today on my first day of vacation!  I've never done this before on brakes or clutch side but looking forward to the experience.  Doesn't look to be terribly difficult, but any advice before I start? 

UPDATE:   Front brakes bled and all seems fine there.   I am however having trouble on the clutch side.  Doesn't seem to be building any resistance at all. 

I usually take the slave off and put an old spring cap between the piston and the engine to stop it from actuating when you pull the lever. Might be a bad idea but it works for me.

got it... both sides bled and refilled and all seems good.  Lesson learned; don't leave bars with controls hanging upside down for a week  [bang]

I did put it up on a rear stand to make sure the clutch was engaging/disengaging as it should and noticed something I hadn't before.  Note, Pazzo shorties installed.  When the clutch lever was fully let out, the chain chattered pretty badly.  pulling the lever in slightly stopped it.  So, I assumed the adjustment must be off.  Turning the adjustment screw ALL the way in seemed to fix the chatter when fully engaged, but also moved the clutch action farther out.  Also seemed odd that the adjustment screw needed to be ALL the way in.   Just wondered if this chatter had anything to do with the bike being up on the rear stand and not on the road.  ???

with the wheel off the ground and the clutch out, the rear wheel will spin slowly.  The way I understand it, there's just enough pressure on the plates to spin the wheel.  With the bike's weight on it, it'll hold still.

You want 1.5-2mm. free play at the lever.

maybe a silly question, but 1.5-2mm free play at the 'let out' or 'pulled in' position of the lever? 

It is true that there is no such thing as a silly question, well, maybe a question not asked is silly.

When the lever is out turn the screw in or out until you have 1.5-2mm.  free play

agreed!  And, as a teacher, I appreciate this even more.  ;)

Thanks for all the help. 

Howie,

I just went back out and played with the clutch lever screw based on your recommendation of 1.5-2mm free play and I'm a little unsure still.  When I set the clutch lever to have that amount of free play, on the rear stand, when full engaged, the chain jumps around, chatters and shakes the entire bike.  this just doesn't seem right to me.   To get it to stop, I have to screw the adjuster in almost all the way, which is a far cry from the 1.5-2mm. free play. 

So, maybe the chain jumping around, chattering only seems like a problem while on the stand?  I love the way these shorty pazzo levers feel, but i definitely want to be sure I've got them adjust correctly. 

The easiest way to see if the chatter is due to the stand is to put the bike down. It probably is. Another thing to look at would be frozen links in your chain. With the bike off of course. Either way, it shouldn't be related to your levers.

...wish I could.  It's 20 degrees and snow covered roads around the block.  And, many little pieces are still at the powder coater.  So, unfortunately putting the bike down and letting the clutch out to test the chatter isn't an option for a while.   :'(

I don't think it'd be frozen links, the bike only has 400miles on it.  Chain looks clean and well lubed.   

I agree with you that it shouldn't be related to the lever.... but since I can stop the chattering by adjusting the lever screw, I'm thinking it is at least partially related to it.   ???

Privateer has the correct answer, particularly with a wet clutch and cold oil there may be enough clutch drag to transfer power to the rear wheel and you might get some chatter.  This is normal.  When you take out the free play it is the same as slightly squeezing the lever (clutch partially disengaged) so the chatter stops.  If you can find neutral easy with the wheel on the ground and the oil warm with play adjusted to 1.5-2mm there is nothing wrong.  

Cool.... thanks.   I guess I'll just have to be patient for now. 

something else to note, I put the original clutch lever back on, which had never had the adjustment screwed moved, and the same thing happened....chain jumping around when clutch fully out. 

Oh, if you find there you are having trouble finding neutral after you put the bike together bleed the clutch again and tie the lever to the grip over night.  In theory, bleeding is simple, in practice, not always.  Do expect difficulty finding neutral when the oil is cold.  57K on the original clutch on mine and there is still drag on a cold day for a block or two.  This is normal and nothing to worry about.  If you do not have enough free play in the clutch it will slip, wear prematurely and not be covered by warranty.

really appreciate all the advice Howie.  working on my own bikes in my own garage is one of my favorite things to do (right behind riding them) and having helpful folks on great forums is great!  [thumbsup]

Don't base your clutch adjustment on how the bike acts when running on a stand.

And FWIW, a bike running in gear on a stand isn't a very safe practice.

I think the chain chatters because the engine runs a little rough on idle, making the spinning wheel catch up on it - which will result in a slack, then tight, then a slack again ... a.s.o.
Adjusting the free play screw too far in is like pulling the lever a little bit, making the clutch slip and even out the difference in wheel and engine speed = no chain chatter.
No expert, but it might be a correct understanding....

ps it would also mean the lever screw is too far in.

+1 on what stopintime said [thumbsup]


Let me see if I can give you an analogy,

Ah yes, lets take a kite for example.

When a kite is up in the air it has the power of wind to keep it up, you can pull rapidly on the string and the kite will not jerk about, it'll just keep flying smoothly because of the above mentioned power that is applied (so thats like your bike riding along the road).

The kite is now on the ground, you grab the string and pull it rapidly again, the kite wil jerk around on the ground because it does'nt have the wind behind it to smooth out the jerkiness. (this is like having your bike on the bike stand with the motor idling in gear and it jumps and jerks all over the place).

Hope that this makes sense,if not disregard, but having said all that, make sure that you have your chain correctly adjusted if not it will jump about more so.




                                      Mmick

You guys are awesome.  All the info is much appreciated!  Hoping to get all my parts back next week and get it all put back together. 

Thanks!

as infrequently as that happens, i wanted to quote it.