Ducati Monster Forum

So I've heard a lot people saying that they go with the 14t sprockets, and I was just wonder what exactly this changes?  What are the advantages and disadvantages of changing to this?
Specifically for a 696.

As far as I know it makes the bike more manageable at lower speeds/rpms, but I could be mistaken.  I just want to make sure I know what I'm going for when I get the bike.

Thanks.

It will smooth out some of the low speed roughness.

Its prob the best and cheapest mod you can do to your bike.

I have not test road a 696 yet but many of the Monster's suffer with the Stock Gearing and low RPMs.

It will raise the RPM's about 400 in each gear.

For example say your bike stock in 6th gear going 70 mph runs at 4000 rpms, with the 14t in 6th gear going 70 you would be running around 4400 rpms. Your bike will also get up to speed faster, and it gets rid of the in between gears feeling that happens especially if you ride around town alot. You lose a couple mph off the top end but unless your at Bonneville tryin to set speed records you won't really notice.

Like Rob said it's one of the cheapest, and most effective mods you can do. It's easily reversed too so if you don't like it just put the 15t back on :)

From what I've read you acatually won't lose any off your top end.  The top end on the monsters isn't due to RPM's but more to HP vs. aerodynamics.

14-tooth is a great mod.  A better mod is a larger back sprocket, but it's not worth the extra cost so the 14-tooth is actually better if you aren't independently wealthy or if you weren't going to replace your chain anyway.

+1 on the 14T ...

-It really gets rid of a lot of the "lugging" that we experience when running the bike at low revs... Ducatis are traditionally geared really tall from the factory, and the 14T sprocket lets you explore the powerband more effectively while street riding... It also shaves a bit of top spreed off of the bike, but for me personally that doesn't matter + isn't really that noticable unless you're approaching redline in 6th.. For everyday (and spirited) riding, my S4 is PLENTY fast w/the 14T top-speed-wise...  [evil]

-I say go for it.. It's a cheap way to get a little more "oomph" from your engine while running up through the gears...  [thumbsup] A must-do mod in many people's opinions... It'll make the bike "feel" faster/more powerful (much like a lightened flywheel), without actually increasing horsepower..

it will make your bike feel a little more torquey and a little less revvy. great english eh. well, anyway, IME getting the bike tuned is the better approach.

for my action in the slower curvies, i need all the room i can get out of 1st and 2nd gear. if i did not have the smoothness and power from low revs (DP ecu) i could see the temptation to try the smaller sprocket. as has been said, easy enough to change back if you don't like it.

I had the same question... http://ducatimonsterworldwide.org/index.php?topic=454.0

There is also a thread in the "how to " section
http://ducatimonsterworldwide.org/index.php?topic=510.0

How much and where to buy? I did a how to on here correct? is there one with pictures though, since i'm new to working on bikes?

It will also limit your clearence when trying to set up squat. anti-squat characteristics of the bike. I stick with 15s and might start doing some work with 16s. It's not enough money to add a few rear sprockets to strain anyone's budget. Of course, if it's a comunter bike, go with the 14.

Check out the DMF Sponsors for where to buy.

Its simple. You can also PM any of the members who have installed it on their 696s to get some help.

Bringing this back from the dead instead of creating a new topic......

Just had the dealer install the 14t sprocket with my 600 mile service on my 696. Wow. This mod really wakes the bike up! The shudder that you sometimes get down low if not revved enough is virtually gone, the acceleration is smooth and steady, and it allows shifting a bit earlier which is great. I also like the torquier feel when cornering. This is surely a must do mod! I'm glad that I had this done. Now to save for the carbon covers to hide where the charcoal canister was, and the termis!

Is there a "How-to" thread to install a new front sprocket?

Will there be a noticable difference if the bike already has a DP ecu installed?

Add a G2 throttle tube to the 14t  and you'll really dig it

and it does take off about 10mph off top end. i think with speed correction it did 119mph with the 14t. and it was still pulling at the fuel cutoff. with the 15t I would have had more rpm to go. we shall see soon. going back to the 15t. hope to pull some better gas mileage if i can keep off the throttle. But with the new DP ECU and Electron throttle cam i suspect that's going to be hard to do.

Raux, did you hook up a PCV or a JuiceBox to your DP ECU? How've you been?

Maybe someone should ask the Mods to add a stickie for this mod (pun intended). Many agree that this is the best mod for the money on just about every Monster.

so raux, your going back? i was just about to finally go 14t, still worth it? sounds like it, so many people say its a great mod.

well a few reasons...

the shop owner i work with is adament about not doing it do to chain wear. and if you think about it in the long run that can get expensive if you keep your bike long term which i am.

another is we are compensating. we're changing the gearing due to a lull in the lower mid range power band. why not try to sort that out instead, i have the DP ECU and will eventually, once i get out of the doghouse for the spending spree, get the PC V. then the port and polish and other changes will be done.

and third... just want to see how fast a 696 can go. if i get the guts. stock gearing with a raised DP ECU RPM limit.

don't get me wrong. it's a great mod.
helps get the bike higher in the rpms quicker where the power is on these bikes. also gives it a more off the line feel making good use of the available torque. but i want t o try something different.

the 14t mod is for the cheapest easiest thing to do

if it works for you then when you come for chain and sprocket replacement then go +3 on the rear and back to a 15 , same result as going for a 14

how much reduced chain life by a 14 ? far more by lack of chain maintenance imho



all of that wont make a huge difference to the off the line bottom end of RPM



you could always go to a 16 and a +3 on the rear and have the 15 for other times


most bikes on the market can greatly benefit from a -1 on the front

all valid points

i went with the lightweight steel sprocket which at the time all i found more was the 46t. but went with the stock 45

yes it is the cheapest mod to do, but if in the long run you maintain the two chains equally, you will end up buying chains more often that with a 15t. how much more often.. i dont know. i'm sure there is a study on chains out there somewhere. i'm going off my friend's experience.

i'm  not racing so i'm not TRYING to see the top end of the bike on the salt flats or something. just want to see for curiousity. and that's if i get the guts.  i've done 135 in the car, but 119 on the bike is pretty nerve wracking. so, not sure how much more i'll do before backing off the throttle.

as far as bottom end, i'm going to try an avoid it as much as i can. lighter flywheel, lighter cam gears, quicker throttle cam, DP ECU + eventually port and polish and PC V and exhaust mods. goal is to get above the lull quickly and stay there but all of it should give more torque across the range maybe flattening out some of the issues.

BUT we are getting WAY off topic. or at least i am.
I'm going 15t for now. if it doesnt work. chain wear or not, i'm going back to 14t

ah but you missed the real point

when you come time to change chain and sprockets go +3 on the rear and a 15 on the front , same result as a 14 front

you can always go to a 16F if you desire for say long distance rides ,  as front is quick and easy to change

yeah i got that. is there room for a 16t sprocket? i know with the case savers the 15 tooth is a tight fit. just seems it might be too tight in there.

taking a look at http://www.gearingcommander.com/ (http://www.gearingcommander.com/)

the 14t gives a 7% theoretical reduction in life.

the 15t is a top end of 128 at 9000rpm. the DP ECU will give another 500rpm or more. (people are saying it varies according to gear)

16t gives a theoretical top speed of 137 at 9000rpm. and should increase chain life by 6%.

but that's all theory.

How often will you go 137?

in Europe...  ;D   [evil]

You gotta come back to the states, sooner or later.  ;)

shuss you...

Not sure if this is decided for you already, but on my S4rs I went with a 14t front soon after buying it, just based on what I read here.  I had noticed previously that it took some good revs to launch at a stop, but it wasn't horrible. 

The 14t gave a great improvement in casual launches and better roll-on power, but on the down side cruising revs went up about 400 rpm, and mileage dropped about 7-8%.  Neither of those was a deal breaker, but I also noticed that I sometimes found myself trying to shift into seventh, and the bike felt just a tad buzzier.  Didn't care for that.  Also, and I guess this is a problem I'm fortunate to have, my bike accelerates through the gears so quickly that it's just magnified with this gearing change.  For some that is ideal, but not really for me. 

Since I don't do a lot of commuting I'm going to go back to 15 on the front.  When the chain wears out I'll split the difference with a tooth or two larger in the back.  If I commuted much or hit much stop and go traffic, though, I'd stick with the 14t.

Joel

I've been running a 14T for about 6K miles now and I would never go back to.  I love the quicker acceleration and being higher in the power band (the sweet spot as I call it).

I do 98% canyon riding and don't see any negatives with this mod.  I had the same mod on my old R1 and I ran that to about 17K miles on the stock chain w/no issues on wear.   [coffee]

seems like lots of opinions.. I am on the fence about this still.  My bikes isn't broken in yet, though. 

My bike isn't broken in either, I only have about 850 miles on it now. This really wakes the bike up, and makes it run the way it should have from the start. While my sprocket change is very new, I can't see of a reason that would make me change my mind.

Have noticed something annoying though, with the 14t the chain is just barely rubbing on the cover which is making a whining noise that is amplified in 5th gear, dealer checked it out and said it was fine so, either I'll let it wear through what it needs to and the sound will go away, or I'll maybe put a washer in there to space the covert just enough. 

I just went back to the 15t front sprocket, and I have to say, though I'm clearly in the minority, I enjoy the bike much more this way.  The gear range seems more suitable for me, I love the lower freeway revs, and the difficulty in lauching wasn't as drastic as I remembered. 

My bike has a lot of power though, so that may influence this substantially.  I'm not familiar enough with your bike to know how much applies.  Good luck.  If you're interested in my 14t which was used for about 1000 miles, drop me a message.  Thanks.

Joel

Yup, took my bike(796) out for ride today, first ride. I noticed that shudder/chugging while pulling into my driveway, I believe that is the what warrants the gearing change? A bike and especially a v twin should be able to get moving with no throttle. I had to feed it some gas and slip the clutch, me not likey!!

Hey guys just to clarify, if I'm at 15t and go down to 14t, I don't need a different size chain, right?  I just need to adjust the tension with that pin wrench tool, right?

I called my dealer and told them I wanted to switch to 14t when I'm in for my 9k service and the guy said something about checking that they'd have the right chain in stock as well.

I think I'm just gonna do the mod myself now.

It is recommended, that after one has put on miles/KMs on those particular components, to replace them as a set, ie. chain and sprockets. This is due to the wear  that has taken place. That I assume is the reason why the dealership mentioned the chain!

i had the stock 15t on my M696 and changed it to the 14t and love it b/c it's more peppy off the line.
most of my riding is around town and on the twisties up to 4 gear, not too much freeway driving.
not too concerned about top end speed either.

dealer swapped it out during an oil change and didn't mention anything about the chain.  

i'm keeping it! [thumbsup] [moto]

You can get a 14t sprocket for about $20-30 and it takes about 10 minutes to change. If you don't like it, it only takes 10 minutes to go back to stock. It's a cheap change that more than half the people on this board seem to recommend.

If you're wondering where to get sprockets, I'd suggest your Ducati dealer or an aftermarket place like CA-Cycleworks has sprockets http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/chain.html (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/shop/catalog/ducati/chain.html).  

14T on my 695 and I could never go back to the 15T on that bike.  I think with a S2R1000, S4R or S4RS that the 15T might be more OK due to the extra power, but on the little monster it has to be a 14T. 
It completely transformed the bottom end on it and made it much more pleasant to ride.  It is also MUCH faster up to 100mph with the 14T.
I'd say if it's a monster with less than 1000cc it's GOT TO HAVE the 14T, and if it's a big monster it's more of a personal choice.  But I'm not the expert, just a user.

You shouldn't need a different size chain, as long as you are not at the max of adjustment with the 15T.
Assuming you are not too far along in the wear dept for rear sprocket and chain, change to 14T and no worry.