So I went the wrong route and shipped my CRG levers, CNC gas tank and cover, DP fork adjusters and SpeedyMoto belt covers shipped off to a guy in Kentucky to have him re-anodize them yellow to match my bike. Well, you guessed it, they came back and looked like this:
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/wbamiduro/photo-1.jpg)
Now that they have been stripped of all color with some pieces half anodized, what's the best action to take next? Since no one makes parts that have already been anodized yellow, it's a custom job anyway. Can the parts be re-anodized and if so, it is better to have them powder coated? For parts that will see heavy use (ie levers) is anodizing or powdercoating better?
Thanks for the help folks
well. time to find another anodizer and possible get them anodized a standard color like black or hard anodized (dark gray) and call it a day. that is much easier to do methinks.
don't know about yellow ano unless you are looking for a gold.
Wow.
Quality control = fail. [thumbsdown]
looked like he had no idea what he was doing....
anodizing transforms the layer above, if you want to strip anodizing, you need to remove the top layer. the best way to cheaply do it, is with sand and orbital sander and just grind the top layer off. I tried using oven cleaner once and it did the trick, but i had to resurface it with an orbital sander.
Bead blasting well work too but can take a while if the finish is thick. My friends dad has a bead blaster and we used it all the time to strip our paintball parts before sending them out to get anodized.
Wow... sorry to see that.
YOu can have them anodized again - it's no biggy. I'd find a reputable finisher and let them have at it. It'll cost you though, Im betting as some steps will need to be taken to ensure a uniform look. They may have to do some stripping to get the color off and then probably some polishing or light media blasting to get the surfaces to look uniform before they hit the dye bath.
I'd stay away from coatings in this case - your filler cap and levers might not like the additional thickness it adds.
Quote from: Sad Panda on January 06, 2011, 05:31:40 AM
<snip>
I'd stay away from coatings in this case - your filler cap and levers might not like the additional thickness it adds.
+1
I've used http://www.pkselective.com/ (http://www.pkselective.com/) and http://www.atmf.com/type2_anodize.html (http://www.atmf.com/type2_anodize.html) in the past. These companies have very high quality services and would recommend either of them.
I wouldn't worry about stripping the old ano, any good anodizer will do it themselves to ensure a good end result.
As a former paintball player I would have loved to use the company that ano'd my markers but they were a small shop and are not out of business. I'll take a look at both your recommendation.
I used both of these companies for paintball markers back in the day. [thumbsup]
Noyce! What I wonder is why you would send stuff all the way there, when you live in the DC area. There are options for anodizing in DC. Seems counterintuitive to send it off when you didn't have to.
Why did you not consult the forum beforehand? BTW there is no yellow anodizing. It's called gold. Anodizing I would think is more of a complicated process than powdercoating. So, I think you are in for some expense to get that stuff reworked. Might be cheaper to just buy new parts. Lesson learned the hard way!
KY???? Why? ???
Quote from: bergdoerfer on January 06, 2011, 09:03:31 AM
KY???? Why? ???
'Cause it's slippery... um oh...
Anodizing isn't super tough to do. It can be done at home if you really want. But it's messy, stinky and has some danger factor.
And yeah, there's metal finishers in the DC area. Buy local ;)
Quote from: bergdoerfer on January 06, 2011, 09:03:31 AM
KY???? Why? ???
He came as a recommendation from a paintball friend as the local company I would have turned to is now out of business. Shame on me for not consulting the Forum beforehand. I'll see what the local guys can do to salvage the parts. Would rather not spend another $500.00 bucks on parts. That would be a super tough lesson learned. [bang]
jeez ... how 'bout a midnight visit to the 1st anodizer? probably lots of
volatile chemistry lying about. any way to get your money refunded?
Quote from: abby normal on January 06, 2011, 01:26:54 PM
jeez ... how 'bout a midnight visit to the 1st anodizer? probably lots of
volatile chemistry lying about. any way to get your money refunded?
I definitely got my money back, otherwise I would have pulled a Stewy....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVUj39TvFOg
Decided to take it to a local paint shop in Gaithersburg to check out the damage and determine if it's salvageable. Hoping some sanding will smooth out the bumps and a reano will make it look awesome again, otherwise here i come again Monsterparts.com.
:o I think he "anondized them" with a Crayola marker.
Strip 'em. Clean them. Sand/polish to chrome finish to remove pitting. Then send to a good anodizer.
Note on anodizers: I look for ones who still use the old arsenic based solutions as it is the best color and durability. Outlawed in most of the major cities/states in the USA for obvious chemical and toxicity reasons! The old stuff doesn't fade or change colors like the new chemicals today do.
Another alternative is a "tuff coat" low-temp (200deg) ceramic finish. Typically blacks or silvers. They will bead blast the part before coating. Typically coating is very thin so not too much problem with interference fitment later.
For those out you out there with titanium parts -- super easy to anodize! Literally coca-cola and a battery. Just mask off your pattern and apply a voltage. Different voltages get different color/hues. Years ago used to do some wild artwork on titanium bicycle frames and parts with this method. Anyone can do anodized titanium at home.
Don't happen to have a preferred anodizer contact that you'd be willing to share, do you?
I'll have to go through the paperwork/e-mails -- I ship to Oregon, Idaho and Mexico for anodizing.
Remember if you anodize a part with natural finish, cnc'd, media blasted, etc -- it won't "POP".
With colors to make them look like superbright and polished -- three methods: old fashioned polishing; electro polishing or "bright dip" (dipping).
Not all shops will do "bright dip" as it is a really nasty process using nitric-phosphoric solution and requires special ventilation systems, 316L stainless tanks, etc. (note: some shops try to pass off a electropolish/anodize process as "bright dip" -- it's not the same in terms of quality!)
My rule of thumb is simple -- if they can't do "bright dip" to polish my parts (when desired) -- then I don't want them anodizing my regular stuff. It's usually a good indication if the shop is good or not. Lots of shops out there that can "anodize" (industrial) -- but not all of them can do the pretty stuff that some of us desire. (or want on our bicycle parts as well as Ducati's)
Maybe this is a bad idea to begin with. Yellow parts on a yellow bike will not look good. Colorful anodizing looks dated and usally looks very tacky.
Quote from: Travman on January 07, 2011, 05:19:22 AM
Maybe this is a bad idea to begin with. Yellow parts on a yellow bike will not look good. Colorful anodizing looks dated and usally looks very tacky.
The bike is getting a cosmetic overhaul of sorts. I was hoping to have the tank and seat cowl painted glass black with a yellow racing strip with the belly pan being gloss black as well.
Option B was to have the tank/seat cowl painted red since the frame is black and just get everything anodized red since I really liked the look when I had my 695. Plus red parts are easy to find.
Quote from: MotoCreations on January 06, 2011, 05:03:01 PM
Strip 'em. Clean them. Sand/polish to chrome finish to remove pitting. Then send to a good anodizer.
Note on anodizers: I look for ones who still use the old arsenic based solutions as it is the best color and durability. Outlawed in most of the major cities/states in the USA for obvious chemical and toxicity reasons! The old stuff doesn't fade or change colors like the new chemicals today do.
Another alternative is a "tuff coat" low-temp (200deg) ceramic finish. Typically blacks or silvers. They will bead blast the part before coating. Typically coating is very thin so not too much problem with interference fitment later.
For those out you out there with titanium parts -- super easy to anodize! Literally coca-cola and a battery. Just mask off your pattern and apply a voltage. Different voltages get different color/hues. Years ago used to do some wild artwork on titanium bicycle frames and parts with this method. Anyone can do anodized titanium at home.
Thanks for the help Moto. Local shop is going to work their magic. I shall post pics when the project is complete in about a week or so.
Sorry to hear about the parts. Hopefully this works out for you. Let me know what shop you go with and how it turns out. I have a number of parts I want to get powdercoated during the winter myself.
Looking to have the place in Manasas do some powdercoating. What are you thinking about having done. Possible to throw our stuff together.....
Is that Figure Eight Engineering you are having do the powdercoating? I'd like to see their work. What they have on their website looks good. It would be nice to have a fairly local place instead of shipping parts to be done.
I was thinking of doing my rearsets, exhaust shield, exhaust hangers, top triple, and handlebar clamp. I haven't removed them yet though.
Quote from: MadDuc 20/20 on January 10, 2011, 05:53:09 AM
Looking to have the place in Manasas do some powdercoating. What are you thinking about having done. Possible to throw our stuff together.....
Quote from: Travman on January 10, 2011, 07:32:59 AM
Is that Figure Eight Engineering you are having do the powdercoating? I'd like to see their work. What they have on their website looks good. It would be nice to have a fairly local place instead of shipping parts to be done.
Yup. Sending them an e-mail today about prices for a batch job. Maybe with my stuff and 696 they'll cut us a break.
Sounds good to me. Just let me know. I think they're in Manassas right?
Look into paintball annodizers for good custom work.
http://www.google.com/images?q=custom+anno&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1008&bih=1023 (http://www.google.com/images?q=custom+anno&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1008&bih=1023)
Woomie (not sure if I'm spelling that right), did you happen to get my PM about powdercoating? I was just curious if Figure Engineering had gotten back to you yet. I just got my rim stripes and 14T done, so I think I'm ready to go ahead and start pulling parts off for powdercoating. I'm always down to save some cash, so it would be nice if we can group our stuff together.
Need to do this today.
Can you tell me what colors you wanted your stuff powdercoated?
I'm just looking to do flat or matte black, nothing fancy. My main intent is to black out all the parts ducati should have done to begin with. Hopefully at some point, I will ceramic coat my exhaust too, and wrap the forks to finish out the scheme.
Yeah you can easily salvage them. I think theres a cleaner called "White Lightning" or something like that that you can just soak the parts in for a day and it will strip it all off. Or the EZ Off brand oven cleaner in the yellow can will make quick work of the old anodizing. But, most companies who anodize also will strip the old stuff themselves, so I'd just find someone who does decent work and give them to him. Custom anodizing is pretty popular so it shouldn't be hard to find someone local.
ugh.... that's the most interesting use for white lightning i've ever heard....
George Jones - White Lightning (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Onfce-UNmmE#normal)
sorry, its "greased lightning"
(http://www.fdsons.com/images/hardware/greased_lightning_cleaner_h112.jpg)
That's not as fun to drink
Quote from: 696DCRider on January 18, 2011, 12:29:23 PM
Woomie (not sure if I'm spelling that right), did you happen to get my PM about powdercoating? I was just curious if Figure Engineering had gotten back to you yet. I just got my rim stripes and 14T done, so I think I'm ready to go ahead and start pulling parts off for powdercoating. I'm always down to save some cash, so it would be nice if we can group our stuff together.
Here the quote I got from Figure Engineering -
Swingarm: $125 ea.
Rearset: $110 pegs, brackets, shifter, brake, links
Shields: Around $10ea for pipe and can shields.
Hangers: Probably $5-10ea.
Top triple: $50 includes masking bores
Bar clamp (upper and lower): $40 includes masking clamp surfaces.
Quote from: MadDuc 20/20 on January 20, 2011, 06:00:01 AM
Here the quote I got from Figure Engineering -
Swingarm: $125 ea.
Rearset: $110 pegs, brackets, shifter, brake, links
Shields: Around $10ea for pipe and can shields.
Hangers: Probably $5-10ea.
Top triple: $50 includes masking bores
Bar clamp (upper and lower): $40 includes masking clamp surfaces.
Do those prices include blasting?
Quote from: MadDuc 20/20 on January 05, 2011, 05:33:45 PM
So I went the wrong route and shipped my CRG levers, CNC gas tank and cover, DP fork adjusters and SpeedyMoto belt covers shipped off to a guy in Kentucky to have him re-anodize them yellow to match my bike. Well, you guessed it, they came back and looked like this:
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/wbamiduro/photo-1.jpg)
Now that they have been stripped of all color with some pieces half anodized, what's the best action to take next? Since no one makes parts that have already been anodized yellow, it's a custom job anyway. Can the parts be re-anodized and if so, it is better to have them powder coated? For parts that will see heavy use (ie levers) is anodizing or powdercoating better?
Thanks for the help folks
Here is all is back and looking better than ever. The shop I took it too did a great job. Even cooked up a match for Ducati acid yellow.
(http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy51/wbamiduro/Project%20Desdamonda/IMG_1878.jpg)
jesus that is bright.
powdercoat, right?
[moto] Cagers can't miss me now. The store is used for this test batch was Ironworks Motorcycles in Gaithersburg, MD. They were able to color match everything based on the color of my tank.