I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem. My bike starts and runs great, but after about five miles, the engine shuts down and won't restsart. One thing I've noticed is that when it won't restart, the fuel pump doesn't turn on. However, after a couple of hours, or the next day, the bike starts up again. I've checked the fuses and the relays; those items are fine.
Any ideas?
Fuel pump relay? Also there's a wire on the fuel pump assembly that sometimes isn't soldered properly at the factory.
I had a similar problem. I was left pushing three times then decided to let the experts take a look at it. It turned out to be a faulty voltage regulator. Good luck!
Isn't a sign of a pump going bad when it fails at higher temps, i.e. after it's been running for a little bit?
Could be any of the above.
I also seem to remember a similar thread and the problem ended up being some kind of mounting for the fuel pump broke and it caused the fuel pump to move around while he was riding which kept it from sending fuel properly and the bike would die.
Another thought is a clogged fuel filter.
These are all based on the assumption that when the bike shuts off, it's shutting off duel to fuel starvation and you're getting starvation symptoms like jerking and stuttering to a stop. If it's insta-death I'd look at something electrical.
It's "insta-death," so it's most likely electrical.
"Insta death" is right! I was cruising in the fast lane in Cali traffic doing about 80 mph when it all shut down as if the light switch was turned off, I bout crapped my pants. Luckily I stayed focused and veered off.
Curiously, I've had two fuel injection relays fail on my bike. Bike would run then stop. When restarted the pump would not activate. I carry two extra ones now.
Quote from: battlecry on January 09, 2011, 04:36:41 PM
Curiously, I've had two fuel injection relays fail on my bike. Bike would run then stop. When restarted the pump would not activate. I carry two extra ones now.
I thought it might be a relay, but I swapped the two relays and it made no difference; the fuel pump wouldn't activate. However, the next day, the bike started.
I had a similar problem and it ended up being really easy. there is a little silver box on the right sight (at least on MY 01 M750) it allows the gas from the tank to the carbs and it gets air bubbles. this is inevitable unless you mod it. i don't know why Ducati did it that way but they did. a temporary fix is to take off the air filter and spray some gas straight into the carbs to push the air bubble out. (do a few rides around the block to make sure it will run consistently). this happened to me until i did that. it did it every once in a while and this technique really helped me. i am currently replacing the petcock with a valve that i can turn on and off to avoid that air bubble. this was problem but i am still new to riding and mechanics.
GOOD LUCK.
Quote from: Jett on January 09, 2011, 05:07:22 PM
I had a similar problem and it ended up being really easy. there is a little silver box on the right sight (at least on MY 01 M750) it allows the gas from the tank to the carbs and it gets air bubbles. this is inevitable unless you mod it. i don't know why Ducati did it that way but they did. a temporary fix is to take off the air filter and spray some gas straight into the carbs to push the air bubble out. (do a few rides around the block to make sure it will run consistently). this happened to me until i did that. it did it every once in a while and this technique really helped me. i am currently replacing the petcock with a valve that i can turn on and off to avoid that air bubble. this was problem but i am still new to riding and mechanics.
GOOD LUCK.
Your bike is has carbs and a vacuum fuel shut off and a vacuum opreated fuel pump (assuming it is stock). I think the device you are talking about is the vacuum operated fuel pump, needed to supply fuel when the level in the tank. I have no clue about this air bubble due to the silver device is. The fuel shut off allows fuel to flow or not. Yes, they do fail and a mechanical replacement is not a bad idea. The fuel pump supplies fuel at the needed pressure and volume to run the bike. They fail too, but not as often. The two bikes in question are fuel injected, no fuel shut off and an electric fuel pump.
As to the FI bikes I am getting confused which is which, but the relays in question can be tested. One is the main relay, the other is the fuel injection relay. Either will shut the bike down. Both are your basic Bosch type 4 prong relay, in other words, terminal 30 is power to the relay, 87 is power out (to component), 85 is the trigger and 86 is ground. Any decent car parts store can match the relay. When your bike craps out the easiest quickest thing to do is carry a premade jumper wire and a meter or test light with you. With the key on, if you have no power at 30 the relay is not getting power. No power at 85 the relay is not being triggered. If you have power at 30, take the jumper wire and connect 30 and 87. Or you could buy a spare relay or two to plug in. They are not expensive and a spare is not a bad thing to have. Fuel pump runs and bike starts you are golden. Either you are not getting power to 85 or the relay is bad. You need to be quick.
Thanks! I think I'll pick up a couple of relays and try this.
New relays purchased and installed. Bike still shuts down after about four miles.
What's next?
An intermittent problem like yours is hard enough to find in real life. Over the interwebs? [bang] More info from you could help. When you try to restart do the gauges sweep? Does the starter motor crank at a healthy speed? And anything else you can think of.
I reread the whole thread. DucRS is correct, low alternator output can cause this problem. If the battery drops below voltage needed to run the computer the bike will stall. The bike sits, the battery picks up surface charge then starts. Carry a voltmeter with you and measure battery voltage when the bike stalls and while trying to restart. Also check your battery connections. Too often we all miss the obvious.
Also check for power at the connectors where the relay plugs in. No power at 30? The relay is not getting power (problem between fuse and relay). No power at 85? Relay is not being triggered (ignition switch, kill switch, immobilizer, etc).
Another possibility is a broken wire in the fuel sender that powers the pump.
Will the bike crap out in 5 minutes without riding it? Stalling on the road is dangerous and makes troubleshooting more difficult. You also might want to consider taking the bike to a shop if there is a good one in your area.
Thanks, Howie.
The bike stalls after about 5-10 min. When it won't start, the gauges sweep, but the fuel pump doesn't turn on. I have lights, horn, blinkers, and plenty of power to crank the starter.
I have heard that it could be a battery; it is the original battery in an 07 Monster. I'm thinking of taking it to the local Honda dealer. I live about 120 miles from the nearest Duc shop.
Could be the battery, get it load tested so you can eliminate that as a possibility.
The original battery on my Monster lasted me 2 1/2 years before it expanded like a bloated puffer fish. Yours might be due for a change anyway.
Quote from: chixstrip on January 16, 2011, 10:09:22 PM
The original battery on my Monster lasted me 2 1/2 years before it expanded like a bloated puffer fish. Yours might be due for a change anyway.
Replacing a four year old battery before having a problem is a good idea, particularly on a fuel injected bike. When trying to solve a problem it is good to establish the condition of the battery before replacing it. The shotgun method of diagnostics ca get long and expensive.
"Another possibility is a broken wire in the fuel sender that powers the pump."
I had the experts check it out; as it turns out, it was an intermittent short with the hot wire powering the fuel pump.
Solution: Connect the low fuel sensor wire as the hot for the fuel pump. Now I have no low fuel sensor light, but at least I don't have to push it home.
Thanks for all of the advice.