I'm re-posting this as a seperate thread since I didn't get any response from the first time I posted a reply under a different thread.
Questions on resetting the TPS: Is this to get the full range by resetting the 0 degree or the 90 degree position? If not reset, is the 0 position off or is the 90 position off?
Questions on setting the idle trim: What is idle trim adjustment for? Is this idle fuel-air ratio or is it just idle speed? If it is idle fuel-air ratio, then it is probably just adjusting it with no feedback of the actual result (no exhaust gas analyzer connected). Is this tuned by spark plug color?
Question on syncing the throttle bodies: What do I adjust to sync the throttle bodies? Usually on twin carbed motors, it's the individual throttle cable after the Y connection or on the carb itself. I will get a set of vacuum tester to monitor the vacuum.
Questions on setting the idle air screws: For this, do I adjust the air screws while monitoring the VDST tool or is this adjusted until plugs are mousy brown? If these are air screws, then IN means rich (and slower idle speed) and OUT means lean (and faster idle speed)?
This sounds like a job for the tech board :)
And now it's in Tech ;D
I've done all my tuning based on these answers:
TPS: 0 means closed. Don't expect it to be "0". It will always have some small positive value like 0.8
Throttle Bodies Balancing: I do not know which model you have. On most (all?) of the air cooled engines, there is a screw in between the TB's that adjust relative position of the throttle plates. On the S2R1000 engine for example, it is adjusted by unbolting the oil cooler and turning a small flat head screw (has yellow torque seal/indicator on it). Attach a monometer first and balance at idle and at around 3000-4000rpm.
Air Screw: The air screws do affect idle speed but their main purpose is to set air-fuel mixture at and just off idle. The proper way to do this is to warm up the bike, stick a gas analyzer in the exhaust and make small adjustment to balance idle CO% between cylinders while not screwing up TB balance too much. These are correctly call "air bypass screws". In is rich and out is lean. A starting point is 1.5 turns out from full rich.
I use the same method for all my Ducatis after warming the bike and ensuring that the valves are set properly:
1) Perform TPS reset procedure using VDST
2) Close off Air Bypass screws
3) Attach monometer (carb stix, etc)
3) Start bike and balance TB's (may need to hold Throttle slightly open since bike may not idle)
4) Turn off bike and let cool
5) Turn Air Bypass Screws 1.5 turns out from full rich and warm up gas analyzer
6) Start bike and adjust Air Bypass screws to balance cylinders CO% values. As long as they are between 1%-5 or 6% don't worry about it. Just focus on balancing the CO% between cylinders. If idle is excessively high, bump fuel trim down so your engine isn't racing.
7) Turn off bike and let cool
8 ) Start bike and adjust fuel trim setting until both cylinders are at 4%-5% CO% values at idle (both cylinders should be fairly close since they were balanced in step 6.
9) Verify idle speed is between 1000-1200rpm and both TB maintain some level of balance. Tweak air bypass and fuel trim to achieve balance between idle, CO%, and TB balance. TWEAK, do not make gross adjustments.
10) Test ride.
Thanks for the info!
I have an S2R1000. So, I'll look for the TB balancing screw.
Do you mean manometer? Can I use a vacuum/pressure tester instead? I thought the TBs have vacuum not pressure, but I could wrong.
Do I need the gas analyzer to adjust the air screws and fuel trim or can I adjust it using the spark plug method (until mousy brown)? I'm thinking to use the old-school method. I'm not sure at this point if the extra $200+ will be worth it. I think the VDST is worth $200, but I think I can tune it close enough without the gas analyzer.
It looks like you balanced the TB's twice. Once with the manometer (#3) and again based on the gas analyzer CO values (#6). Isn't the first one OK or good enough?
Is CO% an indicator of fuel-ratio? This is only seen by the gas analyzer and not the VDST, right? Or is it connected to the VDST?
Finally, does the VDST have 2 fuel trim control/settings, one for each TB?
'06 S2R1k has an idle air servo and an O2 sensor.
So, trim adjustment will not do anything, if it's even accessible by the VDST.
Dunno if the re-flashed ECU's have the trim enabled...
I'll have to do more research on that idle air servo. I think the 02 sensor is disabled with the re-flashed ecu since it will be open loop. Are you talking about the stock ecu not having any affect with trim?
I used to work for TechnoResearch and they are close by. I will be able to try it out before purchase.
Quote from: eyduc on January 20, 2011, 12:46:10 PM
Thanks for the info!
I have an S2R1000. So, I'll look for the TB balancing screw.
Do you mean manometer? Can I use a vacuum/pressure tester instead? I thought the TBs have vacuum not pressure, but I could wrong.
Do I need the gas analyzer to adjust the air screws and fuel trim or can I adjust it using the spark plug method (until mousy brown)? I'm thinking to use the old-school method. I'm not sure at this point if the extra $200+ will be worth it. I think the VDST is worth $200, but I think I can tune it close enough without the gas analyzer.
It looks like you balanced the TB's twice. Once with the manometer (#3) and again based on the gas analyzer CO values (#6). Isn't the first one OK or good enough?
Is CO% an indicator of fuel-ratio? This is only seen by the gas analyzer and not the VDST, right? Or is it connected to the VDST?
Finally, does the VDST have 2 fuel trim control/settings, one for each TB?
Manometer..yes. Vacuum is also a pressure. ;)
Step #3 is to balance the TBs. Step #6 is to balance the CO% levels between the two cylinders. When the air bypass screws are adjusted they also affect the TB balance. The trick is to compromise between the balance of CO% and an acceptable level of imbalance in the TBs. CO% is an indicator of air-fuel mixture and is measured by a gas analyzer. The VDST does not do this.
The trim setting is a global setting.
I hope this is somewhat helpful, not confusing :-\
Bookmarked.
[coffee]
Much more clear! Thanks, Silversled!
Can a a/f gauge be connected to his bike or no? On any of them? Like we do with cages...
Quote from: cokey on January 21, 2011, 08:46:13 AM
Can a a/f gauge be connected to his bike or no? On any of them? Like we do with cages...
Cokey,
What do you mean "connected"?
1) Yes you can weld an O2 bung on the exhaust and wire an AEM or similar a/f gauge to the bike = connected
2) Yes you can stick the probe of an analyzer into the open end of the muffler and read the a/f or CO% values = connected
3) No you cannot hook up an analyzer to VDST and read a/f from the computer.
This is the setup I typically use when doing this tuning. Sorry don't have pictures of the Monster.
In these pictures, you can see the computer running VDST and the Gunson Gastester.
Note the $5 homemade "carb stick" made from tubing and a yellow yard stick. My buddy failed to return my Carbtune unit so I stopped by the local Lowes and made one.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3024/2972357598_466e86c707_b.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3233/2972357832_2026bc0182_b.jpg)
Yea numero uno, with o2 bung.. I never see a gauge affixed to bikes.. I wld, at least if I was heavily modified.. I cld see mounting location probably being biggest concern/deterrent.