Ducati Monster Forum

should i take the plunge to slipper clutchdom for my m900? 

do you regularly lock up the rear when downshifting?

hmmmmmm, somewhere between regularly and occassionally.  the thing is i have the ins on a yoyodyne slipper with 2K miles for $500.  I'm about to have to buy a new basket and plates anyway . . . soooooooooo

Why buy used?

Brand New DucaBike 6 Spring Slipper Clutches - $549.95 - http://bellissimoto.com/DucaBikeClutch.html (http://bellissimoto.com/DucaBikeClutch.html)

(http://bellissimoto.com/images/342417090608_big.jpg)

I use it in my Multistrada 1000 and it works great.

(http://bellissimoto.com/images/m33.jpg)

Basket is included, though plates are not, but a slipper clutch, a steering damper, and bar end mirrors are by far the single best mods you can put on a Ducati.

for $500 does it come complete? plates, shims, basket, hub, pressure plate, springs, retainers you get the idea? be sure the tangs on the plates and basket are in good condition and no bearing damage to the hub ramps.

i'd offer $450. that how much i got my used complete YOYO slipper for with a new basket.

Basket is included, though plates are not, but a slipper clutch, a steering damper, and bar end mirrors are by far the single best mods you can put on a Ducati.
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you mean taking off the fork reflectors isnt?
Damn! [bang]
 [laugh]

if that's true i'd walk. plates would be another $225-$300.

no plates, bad buy?

The ducabike is a quality slipper. Doesnt come with plates, but most of them dont come with them anyway.

I have used the ducabike slipper and the OEM 749R slipper, i lock up the rear quite often, but really you get used to it, unless your really digging deep to get into a corner at the track or riding super aggressive on the street, you really don't need it.  You're usually not going fast enough that you don't have time to get it hook up (im not going that fast atelast).


Don't forget that if your bike is a daily rider, you'll BURN through clutch packs like no tomorrow.

i dig the 48t basket design slippers, but they don't come in budget friendly favors...

not a bad buy, but i think you can find a better deal. for that price the Ducabike one would be the better option. i think you can find a used slipper with plates at the $500 price. you have to be patient.

i'm sorry for my frugal attitude.

not at all. i appreciate the input.

what do you guys (and girls) think about the STM slipper at motowheels? it's less than $700 (if you're a VIP like me [coffee]) and i think it comes with plates: http://motowheels.com/i-7752767-stm-slipper-clutch-classic-6-spring-m20.html (http://motowheels.com/i-7752767-stm-slipper-clutch-classic-6-spring-m20.html)

thinking about replacing my 15k mile oem unit since i want to run it open and buying a fancy pressure plate is going to set me back $200 anyway...

DOOO IIIIIITTTTTT

oh duh [roll] no plates included.

maybe i should suck it up and go for the 48t EVR slipper: http://motowheels.com/i-7179400-evr-ducati-cts-slipper-clutch-complete-with-48t-plates-and-basket.html (http://motowheels.com/i-7179400-evr-ducati-cts-slipper-clutch-complete-with-48t-plates-and-basket.html)

wonder if the guys at moto would go with the surflex kit over this?

Don't do it!  I put an EVR on my S4RS and it was like cutting it's balls off.  Can't wait to get rid of it.

i like the 48T EVR slippers a lot.   good design: moves the plate rather than the hub, so its more like modulating your lever.

are you kidding?     that's ludicrousness.

It slips in both directions.  I don't really miss the wheel hop on the downshifts but it's slushy going in and makes a whining noise all the time.  Others here have complained about the whining so I know I'm not alone.

sounds like its not set up right or your plates are worn like a mofo (they do wear faster on a slipper than on a regular clutch since they slip more often...).  We put tons of 'em on 999s, 1098s, 1198s and SFs when i was at AMS - they only slipped on accel when the friction plates were too worn for the bike's output.     the whining noise is not uncommon on a slipper clutch, regardless of brand - they make sounds as they 'open' and allow the plates to slide. 

so do you think the EVR 48t is a good investment?

i have been told also to just go with the STM 12t since, ``they invented it.'' not sure if that's a great reason, but maybe the stm is cheaper and good enough for my 99 m900.

i definitely don't want it to affect my acceleration!

the history of the STM and the EVR is quite overlapping.

The $699 12T STM is very old school- and it still requires plates.

There are better slipper clutches out there that are more complete.
TheMW Slipper Clutch: Complete Kit (http://motowheels.com/i-7581585-mw-slipper-clutch-complete-kit.html) comes with Surflex plates, NGR billet basket, Corse Dynamics Polished stainless springs, Titanium hardware, Titanium pushrod pin, Throw out bearing for $899.9. It is in stock and we have spares.

hmm. i talked to matt at motowheels and he said they were out of stock on that MW drop-in clutch. ???

i was told today by a guy who has been riding and working on carbed monster for 13 years that a slipper clutch is the absolute sh!t to put on my m900, so i kind of want to do it. but i just went out on a nice, fast 50-mile ride and i was LOVE ING IT! [laugh] i don't really think i need to actually change my clutch right now.

think i'll just run it open as is until it dies and then drop the grand on a slipper... for now i will spend all of my money upgrading my suspension -- 996 forks with a new triple from cycle cat and a penske shock on the back? my suspension sucks now.

and then i need to start making my bike go faster. FCR carbs? lighter fly-wheel? i'm a total newb...

No, brand new out of the box, properly installed and torqued.  Not a fan.

maybe you got a bad one, i've not had that experience even with bikes putting out more power than the s4r/s4rs.

This is a good plan. Suspension is far more important than a slipper clutch for a street bike IMO. Slippers are necessary on race bikes...for street bikes they're just kind of a nice thing to have. I would do a lot of things to a street bike before I dropped a grand on a slipper.

+1 on suspension being a great plan.  call me a heretic, but its more important than fiddling with exhaust pipes and and other components on the motor. 

if you can get those 996 forks with ohlins internals, you'll have a really great front end. I have a set of the TiN 998 showa forks with ohlins internals on my Monster with Penske rear shock and its fantastic feeling (of course with preload, rebound and compression fiddled with enough).   

cool, thanks [thumbsup] then i'm set on this plan! do you think going with 996 or 998 forks is the best way to proceed? i have seen guys putting gixxer forks on their monsters. does it make a difference as long as the internals are ohlins?

i am planning on riding up to ECS or rockwell's this weekend to talk with those guys about it. wish we has a race-tech near here. anyone know of some sweet suspension shops in the northeast region, near NY, NJ or CT?

You are going to two of them. 

are they both equally good? i know the guy who runs ECS used to work at rockwell's

i did showa's from 916 on one monster, from a 998 on another monster, and another 916 on the third monster (project monster)...  The ohlins valving makes a difference - the one without it is noticeably not as good as the one with it, regardless of level of fiddling with the adjustments.

by the way -- i'm really starting to LOVE engine braking. have even squeaked the back wheel a few times, but it's more fun than petrifying [evil] only a little, mind you

also @jv, ordering the race-tech gold like fork seals and springs for my stock showa adjustable fronts, and a new penske shock for the back. talked to steve at ECS and he's going to dial it in for me. [thumbsup]

get springs for your weight if you need 'em - makes a big difference.   You can get your penske rear shock with a torrington bearing at the preload collars if you are using a heavier spring - makes it gobs easier to adjust.  Kind of a "must" if you are going to have it sprung for 2-up riding and need to crank on/off the preload occasionally.

My experience with a slipper clutch is that you will learn a lot about how they work before you get it dialed in.  The factory clutch has compensation springs built into the basket and you will lose that.  It made the slipper feel grabbier so that was compensated for by adding a second bevel spring plate.  Then the stack height - too short and it slips going forward, too tall and just a bit of drag will cause clunky shifting finding neutral and dropping it into first.  A mix of new and used friction plates got used to get the stack right.  A lot of mucking around but I like the finished install.

i agree about getting stack height correct - its a big part of getting a slipper setup right.  [thumbsup]