Just tried to start my bike after about a month and a half in storage and having some issues. When I turn the key, the regular indicator bulbs (neutral, oil pressure) light up, the fuel pump primes and the headlight and taillight turn on. The gauges do NOT sweep, nor does the LCD screen turn on. Starter will not turn over and brake light does not function.
Charged the battery and tried again - getting the same result. Kinda at a loss as to where to go from here. Does this sound like an immobilizer issue? I've never had an issue with it before so I really don't know what I'm looking for here.
I would check my fuses.
Is the amber immobilizer light on?
probably just the fuses. if however you do have an immobiizer issue i have a stock 05 620 ecu that we could use combined with a gauge and key swap ( i also have the gauges and key just need to replace those with yours....ect....)im selling them for cheap if you ever come across problems.
Quote from: errazor on March 14, 2011, 06:21:05 AM
I would check my fuses.
Check the main fuse. There is a single 30 or 40 amp fuse that is off on it's own and not part of the fuse box. From the fact that nothing is happening I'd head for that one.
Thanks for the quick replies, I will check that today now that I have some daylight to work with! The immobilizer light is not on, basically everything turns on except for the gauge sweep, the gauge backlight and LCD screens, brake light and starter. I'll update after I check that fuse.
All fuses fine, battery charged - nothing.
Unplugged cluster, plugged it back in - everything works.
Figures it would be the simplest thing... I lowered my clocks below the triple so I was trying to avoid the trouble of getting to the plug on the back.
good to hear....keep me in mind if you ever need that ecu.
Quote from: howie on March 14, 2011, 06:27:38 AM
Is the amber immobilizer light on?
this happened to me the other night at work. Turned key, immobilizer light went steady and wouldn't start.
I turned key off, turned back on, and it was fine. Do I need to worry?
my GF's 05 M620 is doing similar, except hers does the guage sweep and does nothing when you hit the button except reprime/energize the fuel pump/system...
i think as long as you got the red key and code card you dont have much to worry about.
Quote from: zooom on March 14, 2011, 06:33:19 PM
my GF's 05 M620 is doing similar, except hers does the guage sweep and does nothing when you hit the button except reprime/energize the fuel pump/system...
Also check the battery and the plug on the back of the solenoid. The starter draws a lot more amps than the fuel pump. Oh, the kill switch too (we've all done it.
Quote from: howie on March 14, 2011, 08:50:32 PM
Also check the battery and the plug on the back of the solenoid. The starter draws a lot more amps than the fuel pump. Oh, the kill switch too (we've all done it.)
checked the kill switch already...checked all the fuses...am going to put a multi-meter on the battery to see what it measures at tonight, even though the float charger says it is charged...I didn't think about the solenoid, but will check that tonight as well!!!...anything else worthy of suggestion?!?!?
Quote from: zooom on March 15, 2011, 04:21:44 AM
checked the kill switch already...checked all the fuses...am going to put a multi-meter on the battery to see what it measures at tonight, even though the float charger says it is charged...I didn't think about the solenoid, but will check that tonight as well!!!...anything else worthy of suggestion?!?!?
Don't just go by the voltage reading across the battery. Hit the starter button, note the reading. Then, with negative from the meter on the battery or a good ground , key on, starter motor pressed, take the positive probe and see if you have voltage at the battery cable where it connects to the solenoid, coming out of the solenoid, and the connector at the starter motor. This will tell us where the voltage stops. Unless you are tall and limber an assistant will help. You should see some loss of voltage coming out of the solenoid, but less than .5 volt. Howley on this board has a good diagram. Note readings and report back. DOH! Check the sidestand safety switch first. Down, the ohmmeter should read
zero infinity. Up, it should read
infinity zero or close to it.
Quote from: howie on March 15, 2011, 06:56:42 AM
Don't just go by the voltage reading across the battery. Hit the starter button, note the reading. Then, with negative from the meter on the battery or a good ground , key on, starter motor pressed, take the positive probe and see if you have voltage at the battery cable where it connects to the solenoid, coming out of the solenoid, and the connector at the starter motor. This will tell us where the voltage stops. Unless you are tall and limber an assistant will help. You should see some loss of voltage coming out of the solenoid, but less than .5 volt. Howley on this board has a good diagram. Note readings and report back. DOH! Check the sidestand safety switch first. Down, the ohmmeter should read zero or close to it. Up, it should read infinity.
Shouldn't it be the other way around?
Quote from: ducpainter on March 15, 2011, 07:02:16 AM
Shouldn't it be the other way around?
[bang] [bang] [bang] Yes :-[
Gotta get rid of this flue like virus. Let me go back and correct that.
okay...so I am pretty sure Das Battery is kaput...
I measured the voltage on the battery with the float charger on and it was 13.3_...I take it off the float charger and it drops to 12.96....I turn on the bike and the injection primes and all that and it drops to 10.6_...I hit the starter and it does exactly again what I was mentioning and it was 10.01 and then recovered back up to 10.5_....turn the key off and the battery recovers back up to 11.36 quickly and slowly continued to climb from there...
I think the battery in it is 4 Years old...a Yuasa YT12B-BS....I think she may be a goner....
Quote from: zooom on March 16, 2011, 05:08:11 PM
okay...so I am pretty sure Das Battery is kaput...
I measured the voltage on the battery with the float charger on and it was 13.3_...I take it off the float charger and it drops to 12.96....I turn on the bike and the injection primes and all that and it drops to 10.6_...I hit the starter and it does exactly again what I was mentioning and it was 10.01 and then recovered back up to 10.5_....turn the key off and the battery recovers back up to 11.36 quickly and slowly continued to climb from there...
I think the battery in it is 4 Years old...a Yuasa YT12B-BS....I think she may be a goner....
Weird, the fact that it was reading 12.96 means it is charged enough to start the bike (AGM will go higher, but most chargers won't do it). The pump dropping it to 10.6 would indicate a bad battery, but attempting to start the bike should have made it drop way down. Recharge the battery and take it to a shop to have it load tested, many will do it for free. Or if the load tester where you work is capable of being turned down to 100 amps or so you can do it there. Replacing a four year old battery as preventive maintenance is not a bad idea, but you still want to know if it is good or bad for diagnostic purposes. If the battery is good clean the terminals and cables before reinstalling. Disconnect negative first and connect negative last. As a SWAG, you either have a bad battery or a bad connection.
Nate, please proof read this, I still have a flue like virus :(
I don't have FHE but if the battery is too dead to pull the solonoid, the starter motor won't have an
opportunity to pull the battery down further, imo.
Sounds to me like the battery is toast, takes very little to draw down the voltage.
But, always check connections, good economy there.