Hello...some friends of mine and I are flying up to Alaska in June and renting bikes for a five day trip. Our planned highlights: Dalton Hwy up to Arctic Circle, Denali Nat'l Park, Seward/Glaciers. We plan to camp most nights in the wilderness. Around 350-400 miles on the bikes each day.
While I'm disappointed its not feasible to bring my M1100S on this ride, I am pretty excited about the BMW 800GS I will be renting.
Anyone with experience in Alaska or with the 800GS that might have some tips to make my trip more enjoyable?
Anyone have experience with packing camping gear and riding gear for airline travel?
Thanks,
Mike B
lucky dog you. One of my dream trips. I've been several times but never on a bike and have been to Prudhoe Bay. You will likely see Polar Bears if you ride far enough (about 500 miles North of Fairbanks). You didn't state how far into the North Slope you will be going though. I did camp once and was scared out of my mind. DO NOT bring toothpaste or deodorant which is scented. DO NOT leave on your clothes in which you cooked for sleeping. Everything that smells should be left away from the tent, preferably in a bear bag strung up high between trees. Also, bring your helmet in hand as carry-on but you're safe to check everything else. Post thousands of pictures for the rest of us to drool over please and have fun but bring some items that you will be thankful for http://www.antimonkeybutt.com/ (http://www.antimonkeybutt.com/) & http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/327/5684/46191?g=1 (http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/327/5684/46191?g=1)
One item I really llike for camping if their are trees or other attachment points is the Hennessey Hammock. Its super light, bug proof, very comfortable, easy to set up, etc. I highly recommend.
http://hennessyhammock.com/ (http://hennessyhammock.com/)
Thanks...as to the question about how far up the Dalton we are riding - we are just planning to ride to the Arctic Circle, get some nice pics at the wayside, and then ride back down. All the bike rental places want an extra $500 if we wanted to go farther north than that (wear and tear on the bike, I guess). Also we are only going to be there 5 days, and want to see as much of Alaska as possible. Prudhoe Bay would be nice, and maybe someday...but likely after retirement and in a Jeep.
Good points regarding the food and deoderant smells. I am really hoping to see a grizzly bear or two while I'm up there, but I'd prefer it not to be in my tent with me! Our eating strategy is going to be granola bars/nuts/etc for breakfast each day...then have a large restaurant lunch during our ride...and then some kind of non-cooking dinner (maybe granola again). That way we aren't cooking at the campsite. That will help with the bears, and will allow us to pack much lighter (no pots/pans, etc).
Mike
Muskrat - about bringing the helmet as a carry-on...have you done that before? I'm wondering if it would fit in the overhead bin...doesn't seem like it would. I was just resigned to having to check it in my luggage due to size, so I was planning to bring my older, 'B', helmet. I'd rather have my nice AGV along with me, but I refuse to check it.
Thanks again,
Mike
Hey Outlaw :)
Here's some local advice for you...and feel free to pick my brain with questions. For reference, I'm not too far outside Anchorage, so I'm much more familiar with SouthCentral weather (compared to Interior). You'll want to bring layers, even in June. Think a polypro base layer, maybe a lightweight fleece or a heated liner. Actually....if you're from somewhere warm, bring a heated liner. June can still be cold, by which I mean 40s or 50s. Nights can be chilly - if you don't have a silk sleeping bag liner, I *really* recommend one. Takes next to no space, and can give you an extra 10 degrees of warmth. Also, plan on buying bug spray when you get here. Just go straight for the 100% DEET. The lesser stuff isn't effective.
Bears...I've been here for going on 7 years, and have seen a whopping total of 2 bears (one of which was roadkill). I'm not saying don't be prepared, but I am saying don't overly stress out about it. If you must, get some bear spray at a local camping goods store (we have an REI). You *may* be fine keeping your toothpaste and deodorant in a metal pannier. I've been doing that for as long as I've been up here and haven't had a problem, but YMMV. You could always hang your smelly stuff in a stuffsack from a tree branch.
Flying with bike / camping gear. I got a helmet bag and carried my lid onboard with me (bonus - gloves and other small essentials fit inside your lid!). I packed my riding gear and tent/sleeping bag in a large duffel bag. My tent is a Nemo Morpho, and it has inflatable air beams instead of poles, so I had no worries about the airline breaking a pole. Weigh your bag - mine topped out at 48 pounds LOL. Added bonus - the duffel bag folds up SMALL for conserving pannier space.
Above all, ENJOY your trip!!! You'll be back ;) Even though I'm planning on moving out of state in a year and a half or so (winters are tooooo looooooong!), I do adore the summers up here. You'll have nearly 24 hour daylight!!!!!
Thanks AkLiz...I appreciate all of the advice.
I'm assuming I can find the bug spray at REI in Anchorage, then?
I'm used to riding at temps as low as 40 degrees, and I do plan to prepare for that. I'm more worried about rain than cold, though...It can rain alot up there in June, can't it? I can stay dry riding, and I can stay mostly dry camping...but riding AND camping can sometimes be a problem...(i.e. keeping the inside of the tent dry is a challenge if I like to keep my gear in there, etc).
We've gotten the full range of advice about bears...everything from "Better bring a big gun" to "You aren't going to even know they're there". At this point, none of us plan to bring a gun.
Our final day is basically going to be an 'around Anchorage' day. Any advice on fun things to do close to or in the city?
Thanks,
Mike
I'm no longer in AK but lived there 26 years and just moved away. Your trip to the circle will be on gravel and on the BMW that will be fine. But I doubt you will be able to endure 35O-400 miles on gravel. The other Alaska roads are not super highways and I think 400 miles will be a challenge, that would be too much for me. The road into Denali is not open to riding your personal vehicle but you can ride a bus in. Check in at the visitors center the day before. A sleeping bag that is rated to about 20 should get you by. Don't let the bear issue keep you awake but muskrat's advice about no food odors in your tent is good. I've had several bear encounters and have a few stories that might give you insomnia. I liked the edge camping in bear country gave me. You don't get that rush down here in Texas. You will be in greater danger riding on the road than from bears. Your cooking area should be away from your tent. In the backcountry I would located the cooking food storage area at least 100 ft away, 100 yards if I can. Don't depend on hanging up your food in trees, you may camp in tundra or black spruce (stunted trees). You can rent bear proof containers at REI or your beemer may come equipped with secure aluminum panniers. Bear spray can buy you some piece of mind and the stuff does work most of the time if you need it. Better to carry than a gun. Bring good rain gear. 5 days is not enough but then 26 years wasn't enough. A great gravel ride on the Beemer would be McCarthy Road, Wrangell St Elias National Park to the town of McCarthy. Not as much on the tourist route and the park is awesome. But, I don't think you have enough time for that, but check it out on a map or on online. PM me if I can help.
Thanks!
We were only planning to ride the 15 miles into Denali that is accessible by private vehicles. That will occur during our planned ride from Anchorage to Fairbanks...and is our longest planned day on the bikes. We're crossing our fingers that day will be clear skies so we can see the mountain real well. Is that 15 miles into the park worth the effort?
I agree with your comments about the bear spray and not bringing guns. In addition to the spray, I'll have a good-sized camp knife with me, and if worse comes to worse I'll poke a few holes in the bear right before he kills me :) I know it won't do much good, but a knife will give me enough false hope that I won't spend the trip worrying about bears.
Thanks again everyone...all advice is welcome and appreciated!
Mike
The first 15 miles into Denali will be worth it. As I recall, you will be stopped at Savage River. What you will miss is the higher country of the park. I know that you don't have much time, but if you did, it would be well worth it to park your bikes for a day and ride the bus. It is the best way to see wildlife in the park. From the buses I've seen bears within a few feet, golden eagles, caribou herds, dall sheep, red fox, marmots, snowshoe hare, moose, paragrine falcons, parasitic jeagers, ptarmigan and wolves. You can get off the bus at any time and then hop on another. I also enjoyed the excitement of the tourists as they saw things they had only seen in pictures before. It helped remind me how fun it was to see Alaska for the first time.
As you said, a knife won't do you much good in a bear attack but if it will help you sleep better then bring it. It might come in handy for cleaning salmon.
don't miss Denali! You will think you're in paradise.
Ha...I'm not sure I want to know what a parasitic jeager is...
My biggest fear is having our Denali day be overcast.
Now...since it is 60 degrees here today for the first time this year...I'm off to ride the Monster for a bit.
Thanks,
Mike
QuoteHa...I'm not sure I want to know what a parasitic jeager is...
Well, as your DMF wildlife biologist I am here to tell you what it is. It is a bird similar to gulls only beautifully marked in dark grey and yellow. The evolution of the bird is most interesting. Thousands of years ago there was a band of gulls that were tough guys. They would occasionally beat up smaller birds. Sometimes they would steal a fish from another gull. As time went on they became bolder and more lawless. Eventually they started wearing colors so that all other birds would know and fear these bad ass bikers, I mean gulls, as they flew about on their Harleys. Eventually they become a separate species that preys off of, steels from, and intimidates the weak Much like the Hells Angles (or Son's of Anarchy for you TV fans).
As far as seeing the Mt Denali on you trip. The odds are against it. But I hope you are lucky. If the Mountain does come out you won't be disappointed. And don't call it by that other name that starts with M. In total vertical rise it is the tallest mountain in the world.
Sounds like my kind of bird...if there is such a thing I guess.
I've gotten a lot of great Alaska advice so far. Anyone have anything to say about the BMW? I have ridden for 17 years now, all but the last one on sportbikes. My Monster is the furthest bike from a sportbike that I've ever really ridden (and from my experience on it so far it might as well just be a sportbike, albeit much more comfortable)...so I'm not sure what to expect with the 800GS...Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
I saw this guy in person on his f800gs - it was impressive to say the least
Chris "Teach" McNeil on the BMW F800 GS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQSq6IHr2Gk&feature=related#normal)
Quote from: Outlaw1100 on March 16, 2011, 06:35:16 AM
Thanks AkLiz...I appreciate all of the advice.
I'm assuming I can find the bug spray at REI in Anchorage, then?
I'm used to riding at temps as low as 40 degrees, and I do plan to prepare for that. I'm more worried about rain than cold, though...It can rain alot up there in June, can't it? I can stay dry riding, and I can stay mostly dry camping...but riding AND camping can sometimes be a problem...(i.e. keeping the inside of the tent dry is a challenge if I like to keep my gear in there, etc).
We've gotten the full range of advice about bears...everything from "Better bring a big gun" to "You aren't going to even know they're there". At this point, none of us plan to bring a gun.
Our final day is basically going to be an 'around Anchorage' day. Any advice on fun things to do close to or in the city?
Thanks,
Mike
You'll be able to get bug spray at REI, Target, Fred Meyer, Walmart, the gas station....it's everywhere (and for good reason) :) Since you're coming up in June, you hopefully won't see too much rain. June tends to be a drier month and usually August is pretty soggy. But it is Alaska, and strange things do happen weather-wise. I'm a sicko....I like riding in the rain (although that's for the BMW F 650 GS, not the Duc). If you do get stuck in some rain, try to avoid the tire wheel ruts - that's a little unpleasant, because they fill with water. Camping in the rain....I will admit it. I will try to find a motel rather than camp in the rain. I just don't like getting sogged on first thing in the morning :) I've camped in the rain out of necessity, but yeah....I don't enjoy it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for lots of dry this summer :)
Ooooh an around Anchorage day. If you hadn't had time to do it earlier, I'd recommend a ride to Whittier to get fish and chips at Varley's Swiftwater Cafe. Whittier itself is not super cool, but you do get to ride through a 2 mile long railroad tunnel to get there. That is worth it, and the fish and chips is worth it. The tunnel does stick to a tight schedule, so the run takes some planning. Here's a link to the schedule...http://www.dot.state.ak.us/creg/whittiertunnel/index.shtml. (http://www.dot.state.ak.us/creg/whittiertunnel/index.shtml.) If you were thinking you wanted to stay in Anchorage proper, there's earthquake park, the coastal trail, being a total tourist downtown....and more. If you wanted to meet up for any food, let me know :) The husband and I like to be hospitable to traveling motorbikers :)
QuoteMy Monster is the furthest bike from a sportbike that I've ever really ridden (and from my experience on it so far it might as well just be a sportbike, albeit much more comfortable)...so I'm not sure what to expect with the 800GS...Thoughts?
I've never ridden the 800 but I have an older BMW 650 single. On the road it should be no problem. You might at first feel that because of its greater height that it will not corner well and be a bit conservative. No problem with that, but the bike is nearly as capable in the corners as a monster. On the gravel roads you will be riding you will realize that you have exactly the right machine for the job. Don't go too slow. These bikes actually feel more in control if your doing over 45 than slow speeds at which the bike tends to be knocked around. Also if you go too slow on the haul road you will be overtaken by trucks. Too many close encounters with trucks on gravel roads can have a bad outcome. If it rains a lot the gravel roads can turn into slick snot.
By the way, on ADVrider there is a section in the forum on Alaska. A place to meet more locals before you head up.
What to do in Anchorage. What Liz said plus a ride to Girdwood and a meal at the Double Musky if you have $$. A night at Chilkoot Charlies if your young and like the loud, crazy, rock and roll bar scene. The famous Bush Company if you are a bunch of dirty old men. The Alaska museum if you are a little more sophisticated and like natural history, art, and Native American culture.
Quote from: akmnstr on March 16, 2011, 08:03:33 AM
Bear spray can buy you some piece of mind and the stuff does work most of the time if you need it. Better to carry than a gun.
A word of advice on this: it may SEEM like a good idea to use bear spray (which is a more concentrated version of commercially available self-defense pepper spray) as a "preventive measure," to spray it around the area where you're going to be with the intention of keeping the bears away.
This is a bad idea.
Bears (who have no natural predators to be wary of) have been known to "catch a whiff" of the stuff on the breeze and come over to investigate what smells so delicious, or at least out of the ordinary ("That smells an AWFUL lot like a rotting moose carcas, but with just a touch of garlic..."). They come over to the rocks you've just sprayed (around your campsite) and get a snootful of Oleoresin Capsicum. This proceeds to make them angry. Having been pepper sprayed myself, I can empathize. By this time, they're snorting and grunting like crazy trying (in vain) to clear their sinuses and have awakened anyone nearby. Even if you remain, uneaten, in your tent, you've now succeeded in DRAWING the bears to you.
Rather, as akmonster has said, it's best to take precautions to keep from attracting them to you needlessly (separate cook site/food storage), but if they should happen to show up, try to stay upwind and aim for the face.
http://www.biology.ualberta.ca/courses/zool224/?Page=699 (http://www.biology.ualberta.ca/courses/zool224/?Page=699)
That said, I hope you have a great time and take a bajillion pictures. So jealous... [beer]
Thanks again everyone for your replies. They will all be very useful.
Mike
Do please report back about your trip.
I wish I could do that trip. It's one of my riding wishes.
Enjoy!