Need some advice. The '07 S2R has no brake lights. I checked the little microswitch at the front and it seems to be there and functional. (I don't have a meter to really test it, but it clicks when I press it or operate the brake lever.) I traced the wire to the connectors on the front behind the headlight, unplugged and replugged them to make sure they're secure. Other than that, I'm lost. Anything I might have knocked loose while I was fiddling under the tank? Other suggestions of places to explore/things to try?
I'm assuming you've checked the bulb? ;D
Not sure if the tail light is the same on that as it was on my '00 900, but I vaguely recall one of the posts in the light assembly getting bent out, or breaking, or something of that nature.
I'd open up the light assembly and see if everything is properly making contact.
Forgot to mention it's an integrated LED light. Works on the 620, so not the light.
Well in that case, I have no idea.
Did you try the rear brake pedal? If that works then the switch on the front is probably bad.
The rear doesn't work either.
Does the horn work?
Check the connections where you attached the integrated tail. The bullet connectors like to fail if you used them. Are your front lights LEDs as well? I'm assuming they world at one point? Check those connections as well. If you have a basic bulb continuity tester I can walk you through testing if the switch is good or not.
If the horn's out, could be a fuse, 10 amp to be specific. Not sure if you've gone that route yet.
As hackersr2 said, first fuse, it will be #5, 7.5 amp. Then see if you have voltage at the brake light wire and the ground is good. As Artful said, this can be done with a test light or you could buy a decent multimeter for $20 some odd at Radio Shack or most chain auto parts stores. Oh, a no tool test. Go back to the connectors you disconnected. Disconnect them again. Connect the two that go to the tail light. Turn the key on. The brake light is now on you have a switch problem.
The saga continues:
No horn. Checked the fuse (#5, 15 A) and it was blown. Replaced with new fuse and the horn works...still no brake light. The light comes on now (and has throughout) but no getting brighter to signal a stop. The blinkers work fine. I suppose this means it's the microswitch.
When I dug out the fuse kit, I found the little continuity tester that comes with it. Now that I'm back upstairs, I suppose I can use that to check the switch. I'll give it a try in the morning. Seems to be the circuit should be closed when the switch is off its mount (or when the brake lever is pulled) and open when it's pressed. Is this right or is my logic backward? [bang]
The fuse is supposed to be 7.5 amp. The switch is closed when you pull the lever. Somehow it was implanted in my mind the bike was an old carbie.
I was referring to fuse #7 10 amp. In my S2R workshop manual, this is the fuse for the stop lights and horn. Maybe the 1000 is different?
Also, did this just start happening? Were you fiddling with anything before? I seriously doubt it's the switches as to have both go bad at the same time is quite the coincidence.
Yup...on your S2R 1000 it's going to be fuse #5 15 amp. Pull on the brake lever and see if the fuse stays in tact, i.e. try the horn to see if it still works.
Quote from: Ducatician on March 16, 2011, 10:38:51 PMI suppose this means it's the microswitch.
Not necessarily.
Several things come to mind:
1) Do you have an aftermarket horn? Have you checked the horn electrical connections or contact condition? My Hella Supertones recommend using a switched relay and a 16A fuse on a dedicated circuit. 16A is a LOT of juice. I'd check the contacts and then the fuse again just to rule it out.
2) Have you tried disconnecting/reconnecting the taillight wiring bullet connector, where it meets the main wiring harness? It's possible to have a one of the 5 pin/slot connections get buggered up while the rest of them work just fine. DAMHIK.
Quote from: hackers2r on March 17, 2011, 06:58:51 AM
Yup...on your S2R 1000 it's going to be fuse #5 15 amp. Pull on the brake lever and see if the fuse stays in tact, i.e. try the horn to see if it still works.
DOH! SR2 [bang]
Quote from: hackers2r on March 17, 2011, 06:08:19 AM
Also, did this just start happening? Were you fiddling with anything before? I seriously doubt it's the switches as to have both go bad at the same time is quite the coincidence.
Of course I was fiddling with things before it happened. [bang] I had to bring the battery into the house to keep it charged over winter (For some reason, the condo association doesn't want to pay to charge my battery). I swapped out the closed airbox for a cut one. Put a new beer tray on without the bumpouts to mount the turn signals. Swapped a motodynamics integrated light in for a different integrated light from the PO. So you can see I didn't really fiddle with it
a lot...just a little. [bang] [laugh]
So I tried to parse all of the suggestions that came through while I was trying to earn enough $$$ to get some new farkles and here's what I found:
1) My little fuse continuity light tells me that the front switch is good. Light turns on when the lever is pulled and off when it's released if I'm holding the prongs of the tester to the connectors (that hide behind the headlight). Yeah! One thing not to buy.
2) The factory horn still works and the blinker signals still work (front and rear).
3) I unplugged/replugged the connectors for the front switch, unplugged/replugged some kind of connector that I think was connected to the rear brake: little plastic thing with a yellow rubber seal..one side had prongs, other side had slots for the prongs. The prongs on my "tester" aren't long enough to reach into the plastic plug parts. Unplugged/replugged all of the wires for the integrated light. Horn and blinkers still worked after this.
4) I'm not sure what a "taillight wiring bullet connector" is. There are a bunch of wires inside some plastic wrap thing into which I plugged the connectors from the light...same place as the old one was connected. There are 7 wires that come out of it: 2 for each blinker and 3 for the tail/stop light.
Thanks for all your help so far! At least I know for sure the switch is good. I picked up a multimeter on the way home in case that's helpful.
Significant Progress!!!!!!
I was testing all of the wires at the tail light (as if I knew what I was doing) and I noticed that the two wires that supply power to the light had the same voltage. Then I thought...what if I have a brake light that's ON all the time. I unplugged one of the wires and what do you know the light is dimmer. Replug the wire and the light gets bright as if I pulled the lever. So then I get brilliant (well not really but...) and unplug the rear brake connector that's mounted on the frame (the prong containing thing I mentioned in the last post).
Now the pre-finale: THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER NOW TURNS ON THE BRAKE LIGHT LIKE IT'S SUPPOSED TO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1!
So now the problem is isolated to the rear brake switch. It's dark in my garage so I can't really see what's going on there so I can't figure out much with it now. Any advice on how to test/fix this or is it a "just buy a new one" fix?
So what you're telling us is you, you YOU plugged the running light lead, into the connection point for the braking light. Aren't you some sort of smart-ified teacher and stuff?
I think Hi's telling us that Hi have a broken or bad adjusted rear brake switch.
Quote from: Sad Panda on March 18, 2011, 05:19:16 AM
So what you're telling us is you, you YOU plugged the running light lead, into the connection point for the braking light. Aren't you some sort of smart-ified teacher and stuff?
Quote from: errazor on March 18, 2011, 05:33:34 AM
I think he's telling us that he have a broken or bad adjusted rear brake switch.
What errazor said! If Yuu would have paid attention to these "smart-ified" teachers, maybe you would have understood that. ;D Yuu ever coming riding with us again? Got to ask DRKWNG about those damn socials too...oh, Julie.
Gonna go with a bad adjusted switch. Although, it would make more sense to test the switch first! Good to hear it was nothing major, and your horn works again!
Thanks for the suggestions, Hacker! Horns are an absolute essential here in DC. I see diplomat plates and my life flashes before my eyes.
Supposed to be beautiful here today, so I'm splitting out of work early to do some riding! Tomorrow is back to cold, so I'll check the switch then.
Meh, we all know I'm about finger pointing.
This should be a pretty easy fix. Those switches really don't crap out, so the two main options are: out of adjustment or stuck due to goop.
They are a simple press activated clicker. The body is threaded and is mounted to the rearset, and has nut on it as well to act as a jamb-nut. Just disconnect the switch and turn the switch body back out of the rearsets. Once backed out so it's not touching the brake lever, reconnect and try your lights. If the problem reappears - the switch is stuck. If not, then just turn the switch body back in to a point that it works properly when the lever is depressed, and cinch it down with the jamb-nut.
IF the switch is stuck - roll down to Radio Shack and pick up some switch clearer/lube. Apply liberally and work the switch until it frees up.