Always a stupid and frustrating problem... but any advice on removing the bottom bolt of the clutch slave? it's badly stripped and that's such a tight space to get vice grips or anything in there!
Drive a slightly oversized Torx head bit into the stripped hex head bolt with a hammer, and loosen per usual. Plan on a new bolt.
Thanks... i gotta pick some of those up and try it tomorrow. I like how everyone's questions are about engine overhauls and electrical problems and mine are "how do i hammer this nail into this board?"
Quote from: mooshichoctaw on April 10, 2011, 03:32:03 PM
Thanks... i gotta pick some of those up and try it tomorrow. I like how everyone's questions are about engine overhauls and electrical problems and mine are "how do i hammer this nail into this board?"
It's just the cycle...
Stick around and you'll be answering the questions. [thumbsup]
I just saw a thread in Advrider where somebody JB welded an easy-off to the bolt and spun right out.
Start with the Torx. I hear you can get them cheap from Harbor Freight.
That way you dont feel so bad when you ruin the tool.
Better for it to be a stripped bolt than a bolt shearing off while trying to loosen. I've had TWO of the latter, just today...
For stubborn bolts w/ "soft" heads...nothing beats the old impact driver. I could have never gotten my CB750 apart without it.
+1,000 on removing stuck CB750 bolts with an impact driver!
I'm a fan of HF tools, but this is one of those times not to buy cheap. If you break the tip off in the bolt, you're really up the creek. Buy the best brand you can afford, try McMaster Carr, they always carry good stuff.
Quote
Start with the Torx. I hear you can get them cheap from Harbor Freight. That way you dont feel so bad when you ruin the tool.
Quote from: battlecry on April 10, 2011, 05:09:41 PM
I just saw a thread in Advrider where somebody JB welded an easy-off to the bolt and spun right out.
Start with the Torx. I hear you can get them cheap from Harbor Freight.
That way you dont feel so bad when you ruin the tool.
My personal experience... Torx bits arent something to go cheap on. I bought two sets of Snap-On torx sets so I always have a spare, then when I break one, I just cary it with me and flag down the truck. New torx bit on the spot! (those and snap ring pliers...I cant afford a whole tool set from them)
(yet)
Quote from: freeclimbmtb on April 12, 2011, 01:25:02 AM
My personal experience... Torx bits arent something to go cheap on. I bought two sets of Snap-On torx sets so I always have a spare, then when I break one, I just cary it with me and flag down the truck. New torx bit on the spot! (those and snap ring pliers...I cant afford a whole tool set from them)
(yet)
+1 for snap on....I bought a set of craftsman a while back and snapped the insert. I took it to the store and they said the inserts weren't covered. However, they said if I break the chrome portion they would waranty it. [bang]
Quote from: gr1976 on April 12, 2011, 07:42:19 AM
I took it to the store and they said the inserts weren't covered. However, they said if I break the chrome portion they would waranty it. [bang]
Hmm, I just popped the 4mm allen I had for my 3/8"s and sears took it right back. Interesting....
Quote from: Sad Panda on April 12, 2011, 12:42:31 PM
Hmm, I just popped the 4mm allen I had for my 3/8"s and sears took it right back. Interesting....
this was about two years ago. maybe they changed their policy.
Torx bit, liquid wrench, and heat worked like a charm! Now, where do I get new bolts? Is that something you can find on McMaster Carr? Or has anyone had luck with those monster ss bolt kits?
Bolt Depot is a good on-line source for metric bolts by the piece. Shipping is a bit high for just a couple of bolts but the bolts themselves are cheap enough.
Quote from: Dan on April 18, 2011, 05:00:35 PM
Bolt Depot is a good on-line source for metric bolts by the piece. Shipping is a bit high for just a couple of bolts but the bolts themselves are cheap enough.
Thanks Dan, sorry for giving you a hard time on my electronics malfunction post :) should i be going with the stainless a-2 only?
I've had good luck with the stainless selection at Ace hardware. If I recall, Fastenall has a pretty good selection as well, but I've not had to use them for a couple of years. I got some lengthened bolts for my master cylinders after I shimmed them out (coffin masters vs clipons) and they work just fine.
Quote from: Jarvicious on April 18, 2011, 06:09:36 PM
I've had good luck with the stainless selection at Ace hardware. If I recall, Fastenall has a pretty good selection as well, but I've not had to use them for a couple of years. I got some lengthened bolts for my master cylinders after I shimmed them out (coffin masters vs clipons) and they work just fine.
+1 on Ace... They are my go to place for hardware as they not only have a huge selection of nuts / bolts but also lots of stuff that real auto parts stores used to carry like: copper washers, small springs and clips.
Quote from: mooshichoctaw on April 18, 2011, 05:48:34 PM
Thanks Dan, sorry for giving you a hard time on my electronics malfunction post :) should i be going with the stainless a-2 only?
I don't use stainless for anything with a high load, everything else can be swapped. It's a good idea to use anti-seize if you're not using locktite.
I think Nate was helping Ben with his kite, so he knows more about electrics than I do anyway