So I was BSing with one of the tech / sales guys at my local shop the other day, and (among other pitches) he recommended that I have the timing belts changed every 10k OR 12 months... IIRC, the mileage seems about right, but I'm not sure on the time interval (seems short...). I've got 2.5 years / ~1000 miles on mine currently (PO didn't ride the bike much) - Yay or Nay? I know it's cheap insurance, but I'm still a little short on gear for me, and I'd prefer to cover myself first, ya know?
The old-school recommended replacement interval is 2 years or 12k miles, whichever comes first.
You musta been talking to a salesman. [coffee]
I'd swap em. They are over age and sat a lot. Having them just sit can result in hard sections forming, which can crack
If you're a capable DIYer belts dont cost much for the parts.
Every 2 years for me, regardless of mileage - because normally I don't put more than 12,000 mi on a bike in the two year period.
Speaking of...
Anyone have a belt tension recommendation for the DS motors that DOESN'T involve a frequency analyzer?
Whip out the ol' guitfiddle and play yourself a chord! [laugh]
After I had mine adjusted by the dealer I did the allen key check. I could only get a 1.5mm though on the horizontal and a 2mm on the vertical.
Quote from: Buckethead on April 11, 2011, 01:43:06 PM
Speaking of...
Anyone have a belt tension recommendation for the DS motors that DOESN'T involve a frequency analyzer?
I knw you asked for tension that doesnt require a frequency analyzer, BUT, did you know that you can now download an iphone app that will use the iphone mic to help set belt tension? I think it was only $20
Quote from: SA_S2R on April 30, 2011, 12:45:52 PM
I knw you asked for tension that doesnt require a frequency analyzer, BUT, did you know that you can now download an iphone app that will use the iphone mic to help set belt tension? I think it was only $20
There's an app for that?
Why am I not surprised...
Sure.
But I'd have to have an iPhone to do that.
Whereas my Android-based phone has a spec-an program that cost me $3.
"Cheap insurance" is one of those terms that means "Now I'm going to try to take your money." $100+ bucks for belts plus labor is by no means CHEAP ANYTHING! Inspect your belts regularly. But I wouldn't replace them before they're due as "cheap insurance."
Quote from: ODrides on May 02, 2011, 09:34:14 PM
"Cheap insurance" is one of those terms that means "Now I'm going to try to take your money." $100+ bucks for belts plus labor is by no means CHEAP ANYTHING! Inspect your belts regularly. But I wouldn't replace them before they're due as "cheap insurance."
I don't think anyone has recommended changing belts before they're due, it's the opposite. How long can you safely run them after the factory recommended interval?
My '09 M1100 has 7500 miles and on the road time of 1 yr 5 mos. Heading in for 7500 mile service soon. Service spec says check belts at 7500 and replace at 15k. Dealer service has said they intend to replace them. Sounds like I should insist on just the check? Thoughts?
Quote from: rideawn on May 20, 2011, 07:45:22 AM
My '09 M1100 has 7500 miles and on the road time of 1 yr 5 mos. Heading in for 7500 mile service soon. Service spec says check belts at 7500 and replace at 15k. Dealer service has said they intend to replace them. Sounds like I should insist on just the check? Thoughts?
Your bike is now almost one and a half years old. The belt recommendation is 15K miles or two years, whichever comes first.. You could replace them at the 7.5K service or wait the full two years to replace the belts. Since the belts come off to adjust the valves you are already paying the labor. Do the belts in a few months you are paying labor twice if you don't change them yourself. Your choice.
Quote from: cdalaskey on April 29, 2011, 09:06:51 PM
After I had mine adjusted by the dealer I did the allen key check. I could only get a 1.5mm though on the horizontal and a 2mm on the vertical.
That is almost exactly what I got on mine (DS 1000) when I checked them after I did the frequency deal myself. I used cycleworks belts and set them to 110 Hz. However, I am going to back them off to around 100 HZ after they break in for a while.
Quote from: vaclav on May 22, 2011, 08:16:58 PM
That is almost exactly what I got on mine (DS 1000) when I checked them after I did the frequency deal myself. I used cycleworks belts and set them to 110 Hz. However, I am going to back them off to around 100 HZ after they break in for a while.
The 5mm. allen key trick will not work for the 1000/1100 engine. I don't know about the 697/796 engine.
My Pantah has had the same belts now for 5 years. Going on about 25k miles.
It's garaged, rarely run in the rain.
I inspect the engine now and then and it's due for some head work.
I figure I'll swap the belts then.
Quote from: ducatiz on May 23, 2011, 05:24:28 AM
My Pantah has had the same belts now for 5 years. Going on about 25k miles.
It's garaged, rarely run in the rain.
I inspect the engine now and then and it's due for some head work.
I figure I'll swap the belts then.
Port polish and ceramic coat exhaust port at same time, hmmm?
Quote from: j v on May 23, 2011, 07:17:33 AM
Port polish and ceramic coat exhaust port at same time, hmmm?
probably overkill for this bike but i am definitely having the valves looked at. possibly new guides and 3 deg valve lapping and mild intake polish.
Quote from: howie on May 23, 2011, 03:38:09 AM
The 5mm. allen key trick will not work for the 1000/1100 engine. I don't know about the 697/796 engine.
+1
Although that is what my vertical cylinder happened to be at with the stock belts and factory tension before I replaced them. Horizontal was 3 or 4 mm. I forget which. I guess that goes to show how much they loosen up over time. Anyhow, I think the bike runs a little better now with proper tension but it ran fine before too (if you don't count the annoying leanness that this engine comes with).