I found this a while back and just saw it in my bike folder. I plan to do it one day with a spare set I have for my SS.
Step one: Strip out the can, cut the front and back off the guts leaving the shell mount tab in place.
Step two: Weld in a new baffle pipe. use whatever packing you want.
Step three: reassemble.
Step four: Marvel at the fact your cans now weigh 1/8th their original weight and are much freer flowing:
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/th_c500c3fb.jpg) (http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/c500c3fb.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/th_21a4df3d.jpg) (http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/21a4df3d.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/th_14c99289.jpg) (http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l309/ducatiz/DMF/14c99289.jpg)
I've done this several times now, although with S*R mufflers:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35964.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35964.0)
You may want to enlarge the diameter of the inner baffle pipe depending on how freely flowing and sonorous you want the mufflers to be. Those images seem to depict really small diameter baffle tubing.
When I did mine I made the inner tube the same diameter as the outlet. They are maybe a little more than sonorous. ;D
Quote from: bergdoerfer on May 13, 2011, 01:44:20 PM
I've done this several times now, although with S*R mufflers:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35964.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=35964.0)
You may want to enlarge the diameter of the inner baffle pipe depending on how freely flowing and sonorous you want the mufflers to be. Those images seem to depict really small diameter baffle tubing.
very nice. yours are finished very nicely too -- what was the weight diff?
I lost 5 lbs total off both mufflers. With an S*R if you do this and go to an aftermarket midpipe the weight loss is much more significant, as the stock udder is a boat anchor. I would estimate somewhere in the neighborhood of a 10-11lb weight reduction overall in the exhaust by fully coring the mufflers and replacing the udder with a midpipe. Engine braking sounds beautiful with this mod I have found, and I don't know whether it's just the even state of tune with the bike or what but with the Termignoni cans I had installed before I had some popping going on. With these cored stockers it's a smooth growley deceleration with no popping at all. Otherwise I cannot tell the difference in the sound from the Termignoni carbons.
I have since evolved my process with the S*R mufflers. I have found that there is no longer any justifiable reason to retain the threaded bracket mounting inserts. Now I just cut them off evenly with a Sawzall and JB Weld some metric nuts to the inside of the aluminum muffler shell where the mounting holes are located. This accomplishes the exact same thing and further reduces weight. It also makes it easier to slide the packing into the assembly as there are no inner protrusions to obstruct the packing or snag. But best of all it saves a lot of time Dremeling, and saves on the accompanying cutting disk changes. That was the worst part of the whole process - constantly changing cutting wheels. Just get to the point where you can pull the outer aluminum shell off then lock the muffler in a vice and lop it off with a Sawzall about 1.5" from where the aluminum sleeve seats at the inlet side of the muffler. Super easy.
I still want an Arrow full system though. A very unique sound, very deep. Probably due to the diameter of the inner perforated tubing, as it is larger straight thru the muffler than the Termis or the stockers, with a straight exit endcap.
If I weren't so cheap I'd have it already. These stockers do the job so well I'm not motivated enough to make the change.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on May 13, 2011, 02:51:36 PM
...
I have since evolved my process with the S*R mufflers. I have found that there is no longer any justifiable reason to retain the threaded bracket mounting inserts. Now I just cut them off evenly with a Sawzall and JB Weld some metric nuts to the inside of the aluminum muffler shell where the mounting holes are located. This accomplishes the exact same thing and further reduces weight. It also makes it easier to slide the packing into the assembly as there are no inner protrusions to obstruct the packing or snag. But best of all it saves a lot of time Dremeling, and saves on the accompanying cutting disk changes. That was the worst part of the whole process - constantly changing cutting wheels. Just get to the point where you can pull the outer aluminum shell off then lock the muffler in a vice and lop it off with a Sawzall about 1.5" from where the aluminum sleeve seats at the inlet side of the muffler. Super easy.
...
Wouldn't it be easier and cleaner to use a rivnut?
Quote from: DarkStaR on May 13, 2011, 03:59:31 PMWouldn't it be easier and cleaner to use a rivnut?
Totally. But I didn't have one. And the metric nuts at the local hardware store are about $100 cheaper than a rivnut or threadsert kit. Remember you have to buy a tool to install those, as well as the rivnuts/threadserts themselves.
So unless you have a host of other household uses for the rivnut kit, it doesn't make economic sense to buy one just for this purpose. If you already have one great. However the JB Welded nuts are very secure and do the same job admirably.
Ironically a Threadsert kit came into my possession soon after I did the last core job.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on May 13, 2011, 04:13:33 PM
...
Ironically a Threadsert kit came into my possession soon after I did the last core job.
nice!
What do you use for packing, and where do you get new baffles from?
Quote from: DownwtheQuickness on September 25, 2011, 09:54:08 AMWhat do you use for packing, and where do you get new baffles from?
I used 10"x12" fiberglas sheet muffler packing, 3 per can. Packed it near solid. 12" lengths of perforated stainless tubing, measure the inlet tube diameter first to get the correct O.D. I've done S2R and S4RS mufflers, and they are different.
Quote from: DownwtheQuickness on September 25, 2011, 09:54:08 AM
What do you use for packing, and where do you get new baffles from?
I use stainless gauze
Just google around for exhaust baffles. There are plenty of brands for them... My quick results:
http://www.jpcycles.com/baffles?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=motorcycle%20baffles&utm_campaign=exhaust&gclid=CKittteWuasCFVN35QodxHPLxg (http://www.jpcycles.com/baffles?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=motorcycle%20baffles&utm_campaign=exhaust&gclid=CKittteWuasCFVN35QodxHPLxg)
http://www.google.com/search?q=exhaust+baffle&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=exhaust+baffles&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=S8a&sa=X&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=shop&prmd=imvns&tbs=brand:cycle+shack&ei=UId_Tqf1OcTV0QGDs9D0Dw&ved=0CLoBEMEJKAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=880220e849a6f978&biw=1109&bih=764 (http://www.google.com/search?q=exhaust+baffle&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=exhaust+baffles&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=S8a&sa=X&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=shop&prmd=imvns&tbs=brand:cycle+shack&ei=UId_Tqf1OcTV0QGDs9D0Dw&ved=0CLoBEMEJKAQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=880220e849a6f978&biw=1109&bih=764)
Bonus of this is you get termi level sound and get to keep you EPA/DOT can stamping for those states with issues.