Ducati Monster Forum

So from October pretty much until the spring I won't be riding my bike that much because I'll be in college and because of the winter. I have heard from lots of people different ways to store their bikes. I know about getting a battery tender and everything. But these are the two suggestions that I have had and I don't know what all you guys think.

1) Run your bike until it is completely out of gas, then when you store it leave the gas tank open to let air get through it.

2) But stabilizer in a full tank of gas and let it sit....

I don't even know if this is what I should do, any suggestions?

Provided you have dry storage above freezing and your bike has been regularly serviced, then you can get away just fine with a freshly filled tank and a healthy dose of Stabil red. My drill has always been to change the oil and filter, fill with fresh stabilized fuel, and then give it a good run before completely filling the tank again. Dry storage is the key.

If your brake fluid hasn't been changed in over two years and is starting to turn brown, better deal with that as well. Use Castrol GT LMA which isn't as hygroscophic as many DOT 4's.

If possible, get the tires off the ground. Otherwise, park on plush carpet remnants. This will deal with flat spots.

Never had the slightest issue with 30+ bikes in 50-odd years, but should your storage area be damp, all bets are off. Some dealers offer winter quarters storage with minor services included. You might want to look into that if you haven't got a dry, warm"ish" place to leave it.

I actually got a really nice place to store it where one of my good friends keeps all his classic collector cars, so I think I'm set with that. I also just changed the oil about a hundred miles ago. But quick question, I do need to replace the brake fluid, so where could I pick that up for my s4r testastretta? And the kind you mentioned is what you recommend?

I agree with everything 'mudgeon said. I lean toward keeping the tank full with Sta-Bil treated fuel. It is nice to get the tires off the ground but I have never had a flat spot problem with modern radial scooter tires. Dry is always the way to go, lower the humidity the better. And don't forget to give her a run with the fresh "spiked" gas to treat the injectors/fuel delivery system. Check the tank every month, it may need a shot of gas due to evaporation. [thumbsup]

I normally believe in storing with a full tank of stabilized fuel, but if you have a plastic tank and E10 is the only fuel available yoy might consider storing with a dry tank.

Yes, that's an ideal location. Good deal!

GT LMA is available in any decent auto parts store, even the chains. It's really good for collector cars too. It lasts.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9012213&contentId=7024043 (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9012213&contentId=7024043)

I wouldn't put Castrol oil in a lawn mower, (don't ask  :)), but GT LMA is even longer lasting than Ate or M-B.

You won't be sucking much moisture out of the air if there isn't any!  ;) Full means 95+% full, but not over the recommened level or other evil things can happen, e.g. saturated charcoal cannisters, etc.

Regards

This is not the way I would play it. Not everyone lives in Arizona, and unless you do you will be dealing with moisture in the air. Run a small amount of Stabil through the fuel system. Then drain the tank completely and store it dry. Do not let fuel sit in it through the winter, completely full or not. You don't want to play around with storing gas in these nylon tanks over the winter. Do so at your own peril, if you come back and the tank doesn't fit the frame anymore don't say nobody warned you. Gas already has a little water in it from the pump anyway, and fuel tanks are not 100% airtight. What about the moisture in the air outside of the tank? Clutch and brake systems don't have any air in them either, yet they seem to absorb moisture. Think about it, do your ounce of prevention and reap your ton of cure.   

Change the oil out with the best inexpensive oil you can find and run it a few minutes right before you put it up. Don't change the filter. In the spring give it an oil & filter change with the good stuff. 

Fog the cylinders with fogging oil.

Stuff some old tube socks into the intake horns and exhaust tips to keep rodents out.

Put the bike on stands. Front and rear.

By all means flush the hydraulics. Brake fluid is bad for absorbing moisture, and letting moisture sit in the circuit causes rust and pits the bores in the calipers.

Clean and lube the chain.

Wipe the bike off everywhere else with some WD40. Wipe the tank & seat cowl off with some good old hot water and a soft cloth.

Cover the bike with a soft breatheable cover.
 
Take the battery out of the bike and keep it in a somewhat warmer area, on a tender. This is how I managed to not ever have to buy a new battery.

Lastly - go to school and focus on your studies, and rest assured your bike will be healthy when you get back to it in the spring.

Hey dude, it's July!  My advice it to ride the piss out of it and worry about winter later [thumbsup] [thumbsup] [Dolph] [Dolph]

I disagree.  The surface area of an empty tank would be much more likely to be susceptible to condensation, and you don't want that condensation against a nylon tank.  A full tank will keep that surface area to a minimum.  I have kept my Sport 1000 tank full of fuel over the last two winters in an unheated garage, without issue.  Bear in mind that this assumes ethanol-free fuel.  If the fuel in the tank contains ethanol, then you would NOT want to leave a full tank during the winter.  Then again, if your gas contains ethanol, you probably already have an issue with deformation.

Seattle's rainy fall/winter arrives much sooner than people realize.  By Labor Day, it's time for parka and wool socks.

All the more reason to ride hard today! 

Ethanol-free fuel? [laugh] [clap] Where do you get that? No such thing anymore. That's why I recommended he drain it completely.

I fill up with ethanol-free fuel all the time.  *shrug*  

There is even a web site you can go to that will direct you to ethanol free fuel in the 'States.

At any rate, if you are filling your tank with fuel containing ethanol, then you had better get your tank coated, unless you empty your tank after every ride?  I know there are some Sport 1000 owners that follow this procedure, but it seems a little extreme.  Besides, keeping your tank empty during the winter in a cold garage is just asking for expansion due to condensation, though I suppose the tank could be removed and then stored indoors.

Here's a good winterization thread...be forewarned that it was before folks realized that the tanks expand.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=4169.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=4169.0)

If you do not have a source of ethanol-free fuel in your area you could use aviation gas.  Your local private airport may be a source. 

I get it that ethanol-free fuel can be had, but you have to go out of your way to get it. That's no good. It has to be readily available to be convenient. What if you're out riding all day long - are you going to circle around to that same gas station or hope there's another one on your ride somewhere to refuel? Are you going to plan your ride to intercept one of these pure gas stations along the way? That's ridiculous. So unless you live close to a small airport or one of the dwindling number of stations that still sell unblended gas you are out of luck. It's still better to drain the tank completely dry for the 4-5 month winter period than to have it sit full of ethanol-blended gasoline, Stabil or not. It's also easier to pull the tank and drain it than drive 50 miles to a gas station that supposedly sells unblended fuel. If I'm not mistaken even the owner's manual says to drain the tank. I remember because I wondered at the time how to accomplish that in light of the absence of a drain valve or hose.

Bergdoerfer, Your getting off track.  This a thread about winter storage.  I'm not suggesting that you go to an airport for every tankful, just that last tankful before the winter.

There are 22 stations in my state.  It would take me more than a tankful to get to one.  According to Pure Gas not one is a name brand plus octane choices are limited. 

I know it's about winter storage. You missed my point entirely! Howie gets it I suppose.

My point is filling the tank full for the winter is no longer a viable thing to do since 100% gasoline is very rare.

This is also an option. One of my cars needs it 50/50 anyway. Wonderful smelling stuff. Already stabilized. Just a bit pricey. That's only 30 miles from my house. Typically ~ 8.00 / Gal. but more like 6.00 at VIR or Summit Point.
http://www.sunocoinc.com/site/Consumer/RaceFuels/260GT100Locations/ (http://www.sunocoinc.com/site/Consumer/RaceFuels/260GT100Locations/)

Last Wednesday I picked up my new 796 Pantah from Duc Pond. On Saturday I drove out to Waynesboro and picked up 20 Gal. of Royal ethanol-free premium (so marked on the pump) @ 3.74.9. and stabilized it when I got home. This distributor delivers BP, Sunoco and Shell too, so Royal can't be too bad. I can't smell corn in it anyway.

William (have race cans, will travel ;) )

Let me make this plane and simple.  Use the online reference to find a nearby source of pure gas for road vehicles or locate aviation gas for small planes.  Get a 5 gallon gas can.  When your in the area of an alcohol free gas source buy about 4 gallons and pour it in the gas can.  Put stabil in the can and mix well.  When you are ready to store the bike for the winter put the pure gas fuel into your bike. 

Good plan.

I am lucky to have a Shell station with ethanol-free fuel not 5 minutes from my house, but I still take a 20L tank to the station, fill it with ethanol-free V-Power, test the fuel when I arrive home to verify that it is still ethanol-free, add some Sta-Bil, and then use a manual pump to fill my Sport 1000.  I just ride my Monster to the station and fill up there since I ride it more frequently.