With a lighter, smaller Shorai battery in hand, I'm planning a relocation from the stock location on my '98 ST2. In order to make this work, I'm going to need to build longer battery cables, and upgrade them from the wimpy stock ones. From what I've heard, waterproof marine connectors & wiring are the way to go.
I'm looking for help with two things:
- What gauge wiring should I use to connect the negative lead & starter lead? I'd like to boost the capacity, but don't need to get silly about it.
- Is there a good online source for wiring and connectors - particularly one that will sell the cable in something less than a 100' spool? I'm landlocked in the middle of Arizona, so don't have ready access to a local marine supply store.
why go online, when a good stereo shop should have all the copper you need for to do this correct-like...
It might not be the waterproof kind of connectors, but if you go to bestbuy or the like and get an amplifier install kit for a car, that will give you plenty of wire and connectors, comes in different gauges based on the wattage of the amp...only drawback (or maybe not) is the goofy sport-compact tuner colors of the wire sheath.
Are you guys sure that the insulation on the car stereo/amplifier cables is rated for the heat and vibration (possibly rubbing against another part) on a bike? Just asking, I don't know.
Bob
Quote from: Langanobob on August 02, 2011, 02:04:27 PM
Are you guys sure that the insulation on the car stereo/amplifier cables is rated for the heat and vibration (possibly rubbing against another part) on a bike? Just asking, I don't know.
Bob
The stuff is fairly resilliant, its designed to run to the battery of your car, so its exposed to the heat and vibration of an engine compartment. Again, there are certainly better options out there but, its just that, an option.
Make sure you get the right gauge wires or you will fry them. The original battery cables are pretty thick (don't remember the exact gauge), but be sure to match or exceed it or bad things can happen (TM).
Also, if you have a chance, get cables with many small gauge wires in them vs ones with a fewer big wires since they will conduct better.
On a monster 6AWG has more copper than stock. I went 6AWG to wire my starter. 4AWG will work, give you more copper, but is a little harder to work with and route.
I use to buy most of my wire supplies off of ebay. Now a-days I try to buy on amazon before ebay.
I'm sure there are specialty online stores...but I'm too lazy to find 'em.
I buy online because I hate driving around town just to find somethings here, and somethings there, wasting gas and time, when I can just wait for the mail.
[thumbsup] I do have left over 6AWG wire in as long as +8', some shorter cut offs, and ring terminals if you are intrested.
A truck and trailer shop will also sometimes build cables. There's one local to me that does a really quality job. I've not figured out how to get an ideal crimp & solder on a huge cable at home yet (but could maybe manage it on something like 6 ga - for truck battery cables I can't do it).
There's a site where a guy does custom cables, you just tell him the specs. Got great reviews on a truck forum but I can't remember it now. I'll see if I can find it.
EDIT: here it is http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm (http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm)
Quote from: bikepilot on August 03, 2011, 05:05:06 AM
...EDIT: here it is http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm (http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm)
That's a very useful link. Thanks
No problem. It has some helpful info on different wire types too (number of strands vs thickness of strands etc).
Quote from: bikepilot on August 03, 2011, 05:05:06 AM
A truck and trailer shop will also sometimes build cables. There's one local to me that does a really quality job. I've not figured out how to get an ideal crimp & solder on a huge cable at home yet (but could maybe manage it on something like 6 ga - for truck battery cables I can't do it).
There's a site where a guy does custom cables, you just tell him the specs. Got great reviews on a truck forum but I can't remember it now. I'll see if I can find it.
EDIT: here it is http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm (http://custombatterycables.com/index.htm)
I can crimp 6AWG with heavy duty hand crimpers, and a blow torch for the solder.
No FHE with 4AWG though... ???
These guys are good.
They will sell as little as 25' per piece.
They also will stripe the wire for no extra charge.
http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/310.htm (http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/310.htm)
GXL wire is appropriate for almost all bike wiring but they don't have anything bigger than 10ga in GXL. They have 4 ga in SGX type wire, but the jacket is much thicker... and resists heat up to 125C.
I used 4ga car audio cable for mine, soldered into terminals. The insulation on the cables is just low-temp PVC, so to provide some extra protection against heat I put high temp braid over the top, held in place with a bit of heatshrink either end. The heatshrink had hot-melt glue in it, so it's quite robust.
Here's the braid: http://au.element14.com/pro-power/petbk10b10/sleeving-braid-10mm-black-10m/dp/1297213 (http://au.element14.com/pro-power/petbk10b10/sleeving-braid-10mm-black-10m/dp/1297213)
(http://au.element14.com/productimages/farnell/standard/42405691.jpg)
It's useful for all manner of looming jobs.
Here's the install I ended up with:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/suzy_j/5798531829/#in/photostream (https://www.flickr.com/photos/suzy_j/5798531829/#in/photostream)
Thanks for all the leads & ideas! And Suzyj, that high-temp braid might have to be part of the final product even if I use heat-resistant wire - it just looks too cool!!