Ok I know there's probably a thread on this already but I could not find it on the search option, I will need the 6000mile service on my duc by next week. So I was wondering what this service consist of (oil change, lube chains , etc.) and if I could do this service myself or if i should just hand it over to someone who knows what they are doin.
I have never done any kind of work on a bike except for a oil change, I want to try and do it myself if it's possible [thumbsup]
do it yourself because at 6k it's mostly just checking things rather than replacing things.
Quote from: adgergewh on September 07, 2011, 05:28:06 PM
do it yourself because at 6k it's mostly just checking things rather than replacing things.
Ordinarily, maybe, but going on 8 years on the same belts, I'd recommend new ones in addition to the regular 6,000 mile service.
Recommended items for a 6k service:
Oil and filter change
Oil intake filter clean
Timing belt check/ change (if two years old, change)
Valve clearance check (if necessary reshimming)
Spark plug change
Air filter change
Clutch and brake fluid change
General lubrication and greasing (including chain adjustments)
General checking of fasteners, bolts at safety critical points of motorcycle.
The biggies are obviously the belts and the valve check. There are great tutorials on this forum to show you how to do everything you'll want to do.
I recommend doing them yourself as you'll get a better understanding of how your bike works. It'll also save you a considerable amount of money.
That said, if there's anything you don't feel comfortable doing yourself, the service departments that I've dealt with have no problem adding/subtracting from a standard "6k Service Menu" and adjusting the price accordingly. That is, if you're comfortable changing your spark plugs, cleaning your air filter and whatnot, they can take those off the service and just do your belts and valves.
But seriously, change your belts.
+1 on the belt change. When I first got my '05 620 with 3,000 miles (last Oct), I took it to the dealer and had the 6k service plus a belt change, minus an oil change (did that myself). I think the total was about $350. Since I got a great deal on the bike, the piece of mind was worth the cost. They checked everything out too. I know belts aren't incredibly difficult but I didn't want to experiment at the time.
Thnx for the help ;D [thumbsup], I will try and do it all myself. If it becomes to complicated I will take it to someone to finish what I could not.
Just make sure you firgure out weather or not you consider it complicated before you remove the belts. [thumbsup]
Quote from: Mr. It on September 08, 2011, 08:08:56 AM
Thnx for the help ;D [thumbsup], I will try and do it all myself. If it becomes to complicated I will take it to someone to finish what I could not.
Quote from: extra330 on September 08, 2011, 12:49:40 PM
Just make sure you firgure out weather or not you consider it complicated before you remove the belts. [thumbsup]
+1
Pull the little screw near the forward pulley on the horizontal
belt (short flat head probably). - go get two longer ones.
Use those to lock the pulleys on place before TOUCHing the belts.
Changing belts is easy.
Easing up valve timing is easier.
Seriously, do it. It's easy and rewarding. Get a manual,
Maybe a Desmotimes.
Quote from: rideserotta on September 07, 2011, 06:31:17 PM
+1 on the belt change. When I first got my '05 620 with 3,000 miles (last Oct), I took it to the dealer and had the 6k service plus a belt change, minus an oil change (did that myself). I think the total was about $350. Since I got a great deal on the bike, the piece of mind was worth the cost. They checked everything out too. I know belts aren't incredibly difficult but I didn't want to experiment at the time.
HOLY SHIT!!!!! $350? I'll fly that mechanic out here ASAP.
Just to make sure what tool's and parts I need for this, can someone post a list? Thnx for the help ;D
WHY DOES YOUR EIGHT YEAR OLD DUCATI ONLY HAVE 6,000 MILES!!!
hahah, do the belts, and if you're bored I'd get the valve clearances checked too..
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-replaces-oe-737-1005-1a-or-737-4007-2a-exactfit-timing-belts (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-replaces-oe-737-1005-1a-or-737-4007-2a-exactfit-timing-belts)
How to:
Ducatitech.com "HowTo" Ducati Timing Belt Change (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vzPZ84ZRjU#)
Quote from: evoasis on September 17, 2011, 12:08:35 AM
WHY DOES YOUR EIGHT YEAR OLD DUCATI ONLY HAVE 6,000 MILES!!!
I purchased the bike with 56XX miles on it, you can say I been riding it for 2months
;D.
These are my notes for valve service. They might help. But I'm no pro I just ride, adjust and ride more without anything going bang up to this point.
http://620monster6kservice.blogspot.com/ (http://620monster6kservice.blogspot.com/)
Quote from: Mr. It on September 15, 2011, 08:22:56 PM
Just to make sure what tool's and parts I need for this, can someone post a list? Thnx for the help ;D
- Various ratchets
- Torque Wrench
- Allen attachments from ratchets
- various sockets
- Screwdriver or similar item to repress rockers
- Feeler gauges. The smaller the steps between the feelers and thinner the thinnest one is the better
- Cotter pin puller
- Magnet on a stick
- Spark Plug socket
- Mechanics gloves - the vertical cylinder roller can tear up tender fingers right well getting it into position
These may be necessary
- Micrometer
- Fine grit wet/dry sand paper
- Plastic forceps or other way to keep valves from falling into the bore if you need to remove the closer shim
Optional make it easy tools
I feel like I'm missing something... but that's most of it
Quote from: Sad Panda on September 19, 2011, 10:55:57 AM
- Plastic forceps or other way to keep valves from falling into the bore if you need to remove the closer shim
A screwdriver in the spark plug hole will serve the same purpose. Either use a plastic-coated screwdriver or wrap a standard metal one in cloth to keep it from eating your spark plug threads.
You can also use a bit of rope fed into the cylinder to "pack" it while you adjust the valves.
For what it's worth, if you drop a valve while the piston is at TDC it won't fall in far enough to be irretrievable.....but it's easier to push the shim down and install the half rings if something is holding the valve in place....hence the rope. I used to use plain old clothes line unless I had a helper....in which case I had them hold the valve stem with a magnet while I installed the half rings. These days I can do it alone with nothing to hold the valve for me just by exerting a little side pressure while I work. I simply set the piston at TDC, then remove the offending shim(s) and let the valve(s) stand or fall as they see fit while I get the new shim(s) ready....then pull them back up with a magnet if they fell and install the new shim(s).
I've only done a few, though. Oh....wait....make that a few hundred. ;)
Quote from: Sad Panda on September 19, 2011, 10:55:57 AM
What size?
Thnx for the info, I should be able to handle this tune up now with no problem ;).
Got to say DMF has some awesome people cheers to you all [beer] [drink] [Dolph][/list]
Size? Or range?
Both
Quote from: Sad Panda on September 19, 2011, 10:55:57 AM
- Various ratchets
- Torque Wrench
- Allen attachments from ratchets
- various sockets
- Screwdriver or similar item to repress rockers
- Feeler gauges. The smaller the steps between the feelers and thinner the thinnest one is the better
- Cotter pin puller
- Magnet on a stick
- Spark Plug socket
- Mechanics gloves - the vertical cylinder roller can tear up tender fingers right well getting it into position
when changing the belts, it's nice to have the camshaft pulley tool. The vertical cylinder wants to move when you take the belt off, and it is easier to move it back with the special tool.
These may be necessary
- Micrometer
- Fine grit wet/dry sand paper
- Plastic forceps or other way to keep valves from falling into the bore if you need to remove the closer shim
Optional make it easy tools
I feel like I'm missing something... but that's most of it
Something like this
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944596000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944596000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
Will do just about everything on a monster.
Quote from: mergatroyd on September 21, 2011, 03:26:41 PM
when changing the belts, it's nice to have the camshaft pulley tool. The vertical cylinder wants to move when you take the belt off, and it is easier to move it back with the special tool.
I'm a tool fiend, but really this isn't needed. The crank turner sure... but it's not that hard to get the vertical roller back into position when it's time to belt up again. But as I said, you'll want gloves on as it does like to spin on the springs and can be a bit rough on fingers.
Thnx Sad Panda, I got my Haynes 2v Manual in the mail today so I am almost ready. One more question: What kind of stand should I buy? Is a rear stand good enough?