the stator i changed 3 mo ago and alls ben fine untill i jumped both lights together and my first nite ride i smelt burning hoping it was nothing untill my rear tail light blew then the next day i check things out and behold the brand new plug it burnt so if the coatng is not burnt to far down i can cut and put a new plug on and go with one light bulb at a time . I did have silacone grease in the plug .
How about getting rid of the plug and soldering the wires together?
Until you exceed the capacity of the coils, adding electrical loads to your system will reduce the heat energy your VR needs to burn. Your coils will generate a voltage proportional to your RPM and the VR will either send the current to the electrical loads or burn it off as wasted heat. This waste heat is not related to the heat that melted your plug, that was just the product of resistance at the terminals and the current generated by the coils.
If you want to use a connector there, look into some of the waterproof ones made by Furukawa(sp?) and others. You only need a little corrosion there to generate heat.
Check the connector in the back of your headlamp. You do not say what Monster you ride, but if it is an older one, I'd be concerned that too much current could melt the headlamp connector if you ride all the time with both filaments on.
Your taillamp blowing up could be vibration or overvoltage from a misbehaving VR, or just end-of-life giving up the ghost.
I think 55 watt is all you can pull before it over loads like most all bikes ... i do have a 2004 gixxer headlight .. 2001 SS/750 duc . I will order a new plug and pins and run just one light at a time , check the battery and be sure my R/R is not out and over chargeing [clap]
Burnt connectors come from high resistance, not load. Your alternator is also capable of producing 520 watts. Battlecry is correct.
I run a 80/100w bulb and have no connector problems.
<threadjack>
Hey DP, can you turn off the headlamp when starting the bike so the juice can go to the starter?
I know there are non-US left hand switch clusters for sale that allow you to switch off the headlamp.
There is also another product called the headlamp gizmo that ties to the headlamp harness and the neutral switch. It allows you to start the bike in neutral with the headlamp off, then turrns it on when you shift from neutral and it stays latched on. There are pages on the web on how to duplicate the function with a couple of latching relays.
I ask because I've been able to live with a lighter Yuasa 7 series battery for years and I think it is in part because I stress it so little during starting. I do not think it would have fared so well starting with 80W going to the lamp.
</threadjack>
Quote from: battlecry on October 16, 2011, 07:28:20 AM
<threadjack>
Hey DP, can you turn off the headlamp when starting the bike so the juice can go to the starter?
I know there are non-US left hand switch clusters for sale that allow you to switch off the headlamp.
There is also another product called the headlamp gizmo that ties to the headlamp harness and the neutral switch. It allows you to start the bike in neutral with the headlamp off, then turrns it on when you shift from neutral and it stays latched on. There are pages on the web on how to duplicate the function with a couple of latching relays.
I ask because I've been able to live with a lighter Yuasa 7 series battery for years and I think it is in part because I stress it so little during starting. I do not think it would have fared so well starting with 80W going to the lamp.
</threadjack>
I have a Euro switch...I haven't installed it yet. :P
All the stars must align for my bike to crank over...even with a YB 16 battery ;)
my 2001 SS- 750 can fire up with the lights off but as soon as i turned the lights on after jumping them together i smelt the plug cook . the wire fired 1 inch on two wires from the plug back towards the stator .. i might have to change both sides or upgrade to a bigger duty new plug .