Ducati Monster Forum

From the instructions, it sounds like a really straightforward install.  And should be.  I've altered the airbox in the carb 'pulley' area, but when it's come time to install the airbox and intake boots it's become a PITA.

I've tried the boots first on the carb mouths, then slip the airbox over those.  Then boots on the airbox.  What I'm running into is that the carbs just seem to be in a slightly different place which doesn't allow me to slide the boots over both the carb mouths AND fit them into the airbox for a sealed fit.  They appear to be 4-5mm too short.

There is a small 'guard' around the carb pulleys I could grind down, as well as hack into the airbox further.

Has anyone done the airbox as part of the FCR install?  Or have you all resorted to pod filters and a separate battery box due to the hassle factor?

I believe the majority of people actually use the stock airbox, I did.  After you hack off the parts that you need to in order to get it to fit around the pulley area, it should be pretty easy.  Some people have mentioned difficulty with the boots, but for me, I put them on the carbs first and the box slipped right over the top, no lube, no problems.  Just a little bit of kneading and it was done.

were you able to get the airbox back into the groove in the boots?  I think that's where I'm getting hung up and it appears short.

i used pod filters

Yep they should fit back on just as before, make sure you take a look around to make sure it isn't hanging up on anything, and put a little pressure on it, you should be able to pull them through until it sits how it was before.

I used the airbox. The rubber manifolds seem too short but they will go with a little stretching and kneading. Make sure the rubber manifolds on the engine side of the carbs are on properly too.

Ive used both on my Monsters and Superlight. Currently went back to the air box on the Monster. I leave the boots/velocity stacks clamped to the carbs. I have also shortened the velocity stacks so its even easier to get them on. Make sure you haven't pushed the boots down too far on the carbs robbing you of a few mms.
The ignition switch/steering lock can get in the way too.

Another thing, I seperated the battery box from the air box. This has made it much easier to remove either and for general servicing. With the battery box section out of the way, dealing  with air box removal/fitting is much easier.

I was thinking of doing that very thing. Got any pics?

+1 I was looking at making an overlapping plate and riviting it to one.. curious to see what others have done.

I just cut at the join between them, nothing fancy. I used a cutting wheel and a dremel type tool to remove some extra material above the carbs on the air box to give better access to the carb tops without having to remove the air box. Also made a gap for the plug leads between the a/b and battery box.

I've done all of the above.

The best set-up for power was stock airbox with the lid off. The best looking set-up was ditching the airbox (in which case I started with the battery box chopped out of the stock setup, but eventually made my own battery box out of AL)

Done all of above. pods are the simplest, they work great if you're
keeping it below 110mph..

http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2011/01/airbox-mods-when-fitting-fcr-to-ducati.html (http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2011/01/airbox-mods-when-fitting-fcr-to-ducati.html)

i think i just leave the rubbers in the airbox and put the airbox on.  can't say i've had an issue getting it on that i can recall.  if you do use a pod put some sort of bellmouth inside it or get a pod with a moulded in bell.

Cheap adapters if you choose pods:
http://www.micronsystems.de/pd1085216091.htm?categoryId=79 (http://www.micronsystems.de/pd1085216091.htm?categoryId=79)

Looks like I hadn't clearanced enough of the airbox around the throttle cable area.  I took care of the gusset in side view, but it also needed some material removed in top view, as the cables at the pulley were interfering with the airbox and not allowing it to rotate fully backward.

Did that, and tugged, pulled and got the airbox over the rubber boots. Might have to clearance a bit more, but I can see it's possible to get it in place. 

Should be buttoned up soon.

Whats wrong with just putting the pods directly on the FCR's ?  I was planning to do just this, but if I can avoid a snag (and waiting more days for parts....) ?

No probs if they come with the airbox adapters in the kit.

Like your rubber bellmouths in your airbox,
they are needed f airflow.

Thanks, but I don't follow.  The pods I have slip right on the FCR's.... The link you posted isn't showing some kind of bell-mouth or velocity stack.

??

I can't say from personal experience, but I heard that the airbox provided a stable air charge for the carbs and created more usable power / torque.  Conversely, pods are affected easier by changing pressures under the tank and can make the carb trickier to tune.

Maybe those velocity stacks are an intermediate part that stabilizes the air charge (?)  I'm just guessing here..

If the pods go straight on, then the adaptors are in place.

 They bolt lnto the front of the carb. They are bellmouth like on the inside but the outside shape allows for the air jet drillways. The outside shape also allows for the air box stacks or pods for that matter, to clamp on.

They are machined alloy pieces and have a tapered, oval venturi (quite advanced), like the most modern throttle bodies. Is that what yours look like?

Hard to see on the Micron site, the adaptors f pods look like this:


(http://www.kaemna.de/pic/katalog/632a.jpg)


Do you have them in your kit?

Anyone have pics of the 'split' airbox?  I'm considering cutting the stock airbox from the battery box for easy install and better wire routing.  I think koko mentioned it, but I didn't see any images.

Thanks in advance.

Yup.  Never really noticed they are/were a separate part from the carb body casting.  Pods are clamped on  [thumbsup]