Ducati Monster Forum

I'm customizing my Monster... you can see the progress and past steps here on my website motolady
http://themotolady.com/tagged/monster_project (http://themotolady.com/tagged/monster_project)

And now I've come to a point where I want to look into alternative instrument options and also ignition switch/kill switch changes. I can't find much information on this, the ignition switch bit. I don't want to change my ignition, but the on button and the kill switch part.

I'm doing a lot of upgrades like new stacked headlight, mini speedo, rizoma resevoirs and probably grips, etc... so I don't want the big ugly plastic on and off switches they've got on my Monster.

It's a 1998 Monster 750 Dark.

Ideas?

Motogadget m-switch:

(http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/photos/MG4002022.jpg)

You can do more than one per side.

But like pretty much anything from Motogadget they're $$$.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=50756.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=50756.0)

the street fighter has mini switches. should be bolt on and wont cost a ton.

alternatively, you could always make your own!

I like this setup and the price isn't bad. Something like $180.

I'm a big fan of Highway Dirtbikes - great to deal with and some cool, good quality stuff including perch switches....

(http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/banner.jpg)

I'm looking into fitting some street fighter switches to my 03 monster. I'm sweet with the right side, the question is the left.

on the monster, as we all know, the high beam is activated by a toggle that maintains a constant contact to hold the high beams on. with the sf can anyone tell me if the high beam switch is a constant contact switch or is it a pulse that tells the computer to run high beams?

also can anyone tell me the handle bar size on the sf? is it the common size or something weird?

other than this possible issue it should be a matter of identifying and putting new pins on to use my old monster plug and ill be riding! :) i would have two extra buttons on the left switch block that are used to control the display on the sf, but i think the switch block is a smaller and nicer look even if with two spare buttons.

Cheers Clint

I just ditched the kill switch on my Bandit and wired in a Motogadget m-switch (added a relay and two fuses too) for the starter button:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/5ec56447.jpg)

I'm not sure about the M750, is the throttle housing part of the handlebar switch or are they separate units?  If they're one piece then you'll need an aftermarket throttle housing.

Cockpit shot to compare left (OEM) and right (m-switch) switches:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d147/pompino/b4c7a743.jpg)

(Sorry, all I have is a phone camera.)

I found a pic of the right switch on eBay...not exactly "mini."   Is the left switch any different?

from the proportions shown on this page, which i consider reasonable accurate, the street fighter switches are quite small and tidy.
http://www.ducatiglasgow.co.uk/showroom/new_bikes/new_streetfighter/instrumentation (http://www.ducatiglasgow.co.uk/showroom/new_bikes/new_streetfighter/instrumentation)

Thanks!!  I must have found an older model!!!

duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude....thanks for the linky goodness!!!

Does anyone know if the switches run to relays? 

Can anyone share the wiring schematic for the new streetfighter?

;D Here ya go mate >> http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=perchswitches (http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=perchswitches)

actually, I am liking their handguards with the L.E.D.'s for to put on the Grand Canyon possibly....

if the street fighter pressess the switch, then it would only work with bikes that automatically run the starter for 10 seconds. for a carbed bike 9or an IE bike that requires you to hold the button down, you would kill ur battery rather quickly.

?? can u explain that some more he man?

my thoughts were that the press start button will still work the same, i.e. contact while pressed and no contact when not. in which case it shouldn't perform any different to the monster button.

basically the same question i was asking in my earlier post.
From my questions posed to the local dealer, the high beams are activated by pressing a button, which leads me to believe that its a touch contact button sending a single pulse signal to the computer/relay which turns the high beams on or off. so if we were to want to use these controls on a monster we would have to install a relay or somehow change the button to a press switch. obviously the relay option would be a lot easier but still a little bit of a pain.

the other potential problem is the blinkers. again a similar deal where we run constant contact switch on the monster, and these may be touch contact buttons which tell the computer to turn on the blinkers.....

so when i get a chance ill go for a drive to the dealers and play with a street fighter to try and confirm this line of thought, unless someone can confirm this for me from their knowledge bank!?!?! A wiring diagram would be ideal PLEASE ANYONE!!

as for the rest of the controls, they are all buttons on our monsters so i don't imagine there being any problem at all, simply a case of identifying the wires and putting them into the correct spots on our monster controls plug.

FOUND ONE!! STREETFIGHTER WIRING DIAGRAM

right controls looks perfect, shouldn't be any issue.

left controls the high beam will definitely need a relay wired in. the indicators is not conclusive, but by the input label of "direction indicator input" I'm 90% certain it is touch contact buttons that will need relays to work on our monsters.... hmmmm

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/blackie27/Streetfighter_schema_elettrico.pdf (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/blackie27/Streetfighter_schema_elettrico.pdf)

Excellent, thanks!!  Hmmm...a legend would be great!

Hmmm...what's "C" in the turnsignal switch?

i originally thought c was a cancel button but it appears c is the 'confirm menu input' button, found by tracing the wire to its location on the gauge cluster pin 16. so for some reason the confirm button is part of the indicator switch, while the up and down arrow buttons have their own switch in this diagram (mode). I'm not sure what n is abbreviated from but it appears to be there to signify what happens if no button/switch is pressed much like the 'off' on the other switches in this diagram.

how i read this is vertical columns denote wire colour for the switch blocks mini loom, and horizontal denote use/position of switches. so the orange wire on the switch block is the signal that goes to the gauge cluster to tell it what to do with the indicators, this is the common output for the two indicator buttons. so when u press the left button, the button joins the blue/yellow input (earth) to the orange signal wire and computer sees earth and indicates left. same system with right except the red/blue input wire feeding the right button has 12v, and the computer sees 12v and indicates right. this same red/blue 12v feed goes to the confirm button which is a minor problem to be explained later.

i can't see any way that this system cancels the indicator!?!? any one ridden a Streetfighter? do u press the same indicator button to cancel? or maybe the confirm button is dual purpose button and it also cancels the indicator selection.

if c is also a cancel button, then if we can separate it from the red/blue feed and join it to the orange, then effectively reverse the current flow by running 12v in the orange and use the blue/yellow and red/blue wires to trip two latching relays for the relevant indicators. then with the c button getting 12v from the orange its blue/white output can be used to trip a third relay that un-latches the first two...

that should work.

The turnsignal switch itself looks like most modern turnsignal switches: push left, push right and press straight in to cancel.  If so, then "C" is cancel and breaks both left and right circuits.

I'm wiring this into my Suzuki Bandit harness, so as long as the switches can handle the amperage, I think its nearly plug-n-play.  An exception might be the high-beams/flash-to-pass.  It appears the switch connections run to to a relay in the gauges and then output from the relay/gauges to the lights.

Note: I just read your post more carefully, it appears that the SF harness is more complex.

hmmm.... this picture seems to show a significantly different left switch block to my previous link.. it looks like a regular blinker switch!! ill have to wait till i go see one in person.....

http://image.sportrider.com/f/25625894/146_0912_05_z+comparison_test+ducati_streetfighter_cockpit.jpg (http://image.sportrider.com/f/25625894/146_0912_05_z+comparison_test+ducati_streetfighter_cockpit.jpg)

http://www.desmoworks.com/images/StreetFighter_Damper2.jpg (http://www.desmoworks.com/images/StreetFighter_Damper2.jpg)

FYI - I think they changed the switch in 2012.  The part number at my dealer does not appear on any online 2011 parts fiche:  651.1.011.2C

hmm... interesting. this one shows 651.1.011.1c for the 2011 model. but i thought someone was saying the last number designates place of manufacture.
http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/2011_sf_ducatiomaha?viewMode=magazine&mode=embed (http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/2011_sf_ducatiomaha?viewMode=magazine&mode=embed)

Hmmm...I don't think so.

For my application, it looks like i'll have to re-wire the switches.  Everything is connected by the RB wire.  For my Bandit, its really easy: left and right signal (-) to flasher relay, (+) to bulbs.  Hi beam to fusebox, etc.

rs seem to have a few options. not cheap no, but.... its a ducati

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/relays-switches-indicators/relays/electromechanical-relays/?searchTerm=relay+12v+latching&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294748562,4294799426,4294855792,4294835342,4294746846&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=Relay%20Construction (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/relays-switches-indicators/relays/electromechanical-relays/?searchTerm=relay+12v+latching&sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294748562,4294799426,4294855792,4294835342,4294746846&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=Relay%20Construction)

i dont think the current rating will matter as id guess the switch is just a signal and the current is only going through the computer on our monsters.

Oh man am I lost! Once we get into wiring and electrical I am like  ??? ???

This is one of my winter mods. I plan on fitting my 08 with the newer switch boxes. The right side should be a piece of cake. The left will need some thought.

It can be intimidating. Most of the time, components just have a power and ground and sometimes a signal wire. And theres a lot of piggybacking/sharing power and grounds from other components. It's gravy when you get past the overwhelming feeling of oh shit.