I'm changing to shortie levers on my '08 S2r.
I'm trying to install shorty levers on my '08 S2r 1000.
Bear with me - this isn't easy to describe ......
On the clutch lever, there's a 1" bronze tapered rod that pushes on the the master cyclinder piston. On the lever end it threads into a barrel shaped brass nut. In the end of that nut there's a tiny rolled pin that's driven thru that nut and into the threads of the tapered rod to act as a thread locker.
How the heck can I get that little rolled pin out?
I tried unscrewing the rod but it's obvious that I'm either going to strip the threads off or twist the rod off.
Help. I'm stuck!
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See if the roll pin is (was) a set screw.
Nah. I just triple checked and it's a rolled pin for sure.
Guess I'm gonna' have to get creative because I miss my shorties.
Thanks, though.
Are you talking about the rod that pushes the master cylinder in, which is attached to the lever? If so, I don't quite understand the problem. I've only used stock Brembo levers (where that rod is a set screw that can be adjusted), but I thought that the whole point of adjustable levers like your aftermarket ones is that you don't adjust the lever action with that rod. Instead, don't you use the ratcheting action that adjusts the angle of the lever with respect to the pivoting part of the lever assembly? Maybe I'm way off base, but it sure sounds like what you're trying to take out is not meant to be taken out, and the manufacturer has gone to great lengths to make sure that you don't mess with it.
Quote from: bond0087 on November 14, 2011, 10:45:32 AM
Are you talking about the rod that pushes the master cylinder in, which is attached to the lever? If so, I don't quite understand the problem. I've only used stock Brembo levers (where that rod is a set screw that can be adjusted), but I thought that the whole point of adjustable levers like your aftermarket ones is that you don't adjust the lever action with that rod. Instead, don't you use the ratcheting action that adjusts the angle of the lever with respect to the pivoting part of the lever assembly? Maybe I'm way off base, but it sure sounds like what you're trying to take out is not meant to be taken out, and the manufacturer has gone to great lengths to make sure that you don't mess with it.
You usually have to transfer the stock push rod to the new lever. The stock piece is held in place with a set screw as Dan said.
The adjusting screw on the lever is a free play adjustment. Leave it alone.
Quote from: howie on November 14, 2011, 11:08:47 AM
You usually have to transfer the stock push rod to the new lever. The stock piece is held in place with a set screw as Dan said.
The adjusting screw on the lever is a free play adjustment. Leave it alone.
Ahh, gotcha. I don't interpret descriptions without pictures very well.
Quote from: howie on November 14, 2011, 11:08:47 AM
You usually have to transfer the stock push rod to the new lever. The stock piece is held in place with a set screw as Dan said.
Apparently Brembo cheaped out on some of these and just pounded a roll pin in there. Be aware if you are planning a lever change.
Unless someone f'd with it before you, I'll bet ya it's a set screw.
Its a set screw held with loctite. Needs some heat to get loose.
Someone posted this link before
http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=7756 (http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=7756)
Looks the same, but without the appendage activate the switch to start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled
+1 on the set screw
I can't imagine a roll pin would make much of a lock for the master cylinder push rod.
Use a magnifying glass to look close. Roll pins have a "seam" that runs the length of the pin. That would be the give-away.
Heat and an easy-out will be your best friends now. If you can't find an easy-out that small, file or grind down a small screw driver to fit snugly, being careful not to expand the male threads into the female threads.
...just an opinion...