Ducati Monster Forum

I have seen differing reports on how easy the Evotech tail is to install; some say it's easy while others have stated some modification was required.  I'm not sure if the kit has been improved over time which might explain the different experiences reported by owners.  The only consensus seems to be that the included instructions are pretty bad.  I have seen a nice installation video for a 696 that seems pretty straightforward, but the 796 has the exhaust valve motor which I assume complicates the procedure somewhat.

I would really like to clean up the tail on my 796, but I don't want to end up having to splice wires, purchase different spacers/bolts to make it fit, and then end up with an exhaust valve error when all is said and done.  Can anyone who has installed the Evotech tail on their 796 (or 1100, which I assume is the same, not including the 1100evo), preferably with stock exhaust, provide some input or advice?

I have a 2011 M796, as you said the instructions are pretty much useless but luckily it's not too hard to figure out the install with the various installation sources on this site. The exhaust valve motor is pretty simple to pull out(2 screws and the cable which comes out simple enough). Just do the install slowly and methodically, don't rush and make sure you have all the right tools. All in all it's a pretty simple install though, considering you basically have to pull the whole tail apart. You should not need any extra screws and there is no splicing of any kind needed for the install.

Enjoy working on your 796, it's always fun!
Lekak

I had a Competition Werkes tail kit on my 696, and when i tried to transfer it to my 796 i ran into the problem with the exhaust motor.  I then bought the evotech kit and found that while the kit was of better quality, and placed the seat lock in a better location, I wasnt pleased with the way the way that the turn signals or license plate were mounted though, and the plate light is USELESS.  I ended up using the body of the Evo kit, and sawed off the blinker mounts, then used the plate mount and a piece of the shroud from the CW kit.  I still need to get those parts PC'd black but overall I like the way it came out.  (I also used a CW intergrated tail light)  Either way, if you get the Duc.EE solenoid eliminator (or a ducati ecu reflash) you can just rip out that motor and save yourself 3lbs on the tail, and have plenty of room for wires and the tail lock cable. 

Ill take some pictures of what I ended up with when I get home.

I am an idiot when it comes to anything mechanical and I put one on both my 696 when I had it and then on my EVO.  I thought it was very easy to do on both.  The 696 was easier because it doesn't have that exhaust valve under the seat that the EVO has.  If you don't mind making a cut in the original plastic fender you don't have to unplug the exhaust valve.  That's what I did (see photo).  I had heard that the turn signals had to be modified to fit the kit with the EVO but that wasn't really my experience.  With the original fender there was some rubber extenders with the turn signals that you don't use with the Evotech kit.  Inside these rubber extenders are football shaped washers with a hole in them (the hole is for the turn signal wire).  Pull the washers out of the extenders and they fit perfectly (see other photo) in the Evotech kit.  I don't remember having to do that step with my 696 but it was a couple years ago so I may have forgotten.  The only other issue was I had to cut the wires because the plug didn't fit but a couple cheap connectors and some electrical tape was all i needed.   Overall it took about an hour with the removal of the old fender more difficult that the install of the new one.

(http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt116/jimsd2/P2010007.jpg)

(http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt116/jimsd2/P2010006.jpg)

Jim

Just out of curiosity, why would you worry about unplugging the valve?  Its not like you arent going to plug it back in when the tail is off...    ???

I cut the fender because I don't really know what the valve does and I have a habit of damaging things when I try to do simple mechanical tasks.  I also heard that if you unplug the valve thing it will cause an error and the service light comes on.  This isn't a big deal but my dealer is about 90 miles away and I didn't want to ride there just to have the service light reset.  I also didn't want the service light on.  For all I know the error light thing is nothing but an urban myth but since I will never use the stock fender I thought it would be better safe than sorry.  As I said I am pretty inept at anything mechanical and it took pretty much all my skills (or lack of) to put the Evotech kit, my bar ends and mirrors on my EVO. 

Jim 

Just a little overall info for you.  That motor controls the flapper valve in the exhaust (as im sure you know) the purpose of this valve is to reduce noise emissions at or near idle.  As soon as you romp on it, that valve opens up anyway.  Yes, if you disconnect the motor from the harness it will throw a code and trip your CEL, however, if you plug it back in before youturn on the key, the ECU will never know it was gone and wont throw the code (at least in my experience)  The Duc.EE servo eliminator mimics the motors effect on the harness and allows you to remove the motor (either for weight reduction, or to swap out the midpipe for a cleaner look.)  Anyway, I found the kit easy to install overall.  including the disco/reco of the motor.

It is a 3 beer job. No sweat.

The only issue I had was realigning the seat lock when I was done. I couldn't get the seat to "snap" into place; simply moving the part it snaps into a tad took care of it.

Thanks for all of the input.  I'm still undecided; I don't often ride in the rain (not intentionally, anyway), but I don't want to end up with crap on my back every time I ride through a puddle.  It will certainly look better than stock, but is it worth the installation hassle and possibly dirty jackets?  I'm not sure.

The Duc.EE has me intrigued, though.  It would certainly make it easier to install a tail tidy (if I decide to get one).  If installed with a stock exhaust, what happens to the flaps?  Is 'open' their natural state?

Yes, meant to mention that.  The flapper springs "open". So when you remove the motor and actuator cable, it just hangs out in its open state.  (no real performance or noise change that i noticed...just less junk on the bike)  as for getting dirty, its not like your hacking the passenger seat and subframe off...the tail acts as a fender...the factory tail is more to keep the sand off the cars behind you, so if ride in the rain you wont get much on you...a pileon might get dirty though  ;) 

It's starting to sound like the Duc.EE might be the place to start; it will make installing a new tail or slip-on exhaust easier.

How easy is it to remove the cable from the flapper in the exhaust itself?

Easy.  I dont remember exactly, but its pretty similar to pulling cable actuated brakes apart on a mountain bike.



btw...


http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/2011DUCEE/Electrical/2011DUCEE.html (http://www.monsterparts.com/pc/2011DUCEE/Electrical/2011DUCEE.html)

so does the flapper valve stay shut or open when disconnected from the actuator?

its sprung to fail open, the motor actually shuts it at idle, and releases it open on throttle.

Can the cable be removed without taking apart the exhaust?  My bike is in storage, so I can't easily check.  I can't seem to find instructions anywhere that say more than "Remove cable(s) to the exhaust flapper/butterfly valve.", which really doesn't help.

Oh absolutely.  You pull the heatshield from the flapper, then you can get to the cable easily.  If I recall correctly, I pulled the motor first just to take tension off the cable.  Once you remove the two M5 bolts that hold down the motor, split the electrical connector, flip the motor over.  pull the little plastic clip that keeps the cable seated, and remove the cable.  (As I recal, you pull back on the sheath of the cable to unseat it from the motor, then just twist the cable ball out of the motor itself...itll make more sense when you look at it.)
Then you have slack in the cable and you can just pop it off the exhaust.

Ducati Omaha has the parts catalog online here:

http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/2011_m796abs_ducatiomaha?viewMode=magazine&mode=embed (http://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/2011_m796abs_ducatiomaha?viewMode=magazine&mode=embed)

Pages 50-51 show the blowup of the exhaust system.  the heat shield is part 42,  the little retaining clip is 45...

hope this all helps, get dirty!  (oh, I would say buy and install the ducee before you dig into the motor...that way you dont forget and throw a CEL...although i think the ecu will reset after 3 cycles...ANYWAY)

Perfect!  Thanks for the assistance!

I'm definitely ordering a Duc.EE and can't wait to install it, regardless of whether or not I decide to get the Evotech tail.

Spring can't come soon enough!

Now you just have to keep your eyes peeled for a 696 midpipe to get rid of the flapper all together...they are out there...but elusive...it took 6 months for me to find one...ended up being passed from Raux to someone else who didnt use it to me...

Oh, and I love this board.

Well, I installed the Duc.EE and removed the flapper motor and cable.  I went for a quick ride (we had some decent weather) and the dash is error-free.  :)

I now have an Evotech tail kit awaiting installation, but after reading some related threads and watching some videos, there are some things that aren't 100% clear to me.  I am hoping someone here can answer these questions before I start pulling things apart:

1) If I leave the four bolts alone that attach the metal part of the tail (the ones that are apparently over-torqued at the factory), can the plastic part of the tail be removed with the turn signals, seat lock, etc.?  I would like to be able to work on as much of the installation as possible while inside where it is warm.

2) What exactly needs to be done to hook up the license plate light?  All the detailed info I have seen seems to gloss over this step.

3) Do the turn signals just plug right back in?  I have read a few reports that the cables for the signals need to be modified similar to the license plate light.