Any advocates on here? I ran across this method while idly perusing the interwebs and am mildly intrigued. It essentially follows the standard convention for a TB sync, though they eschew a set voltage/throttle angle at the TPS for idle and instead advise to manipulate the throttle-stop screw to achieve the correct idle speed.
Here's the FIM method in it's entirety as lifted from TOB. Really curious to hear if anybody actually uses this and what their thoughts are.
Set the Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle shaft. To correctly do this you must:
• Completely back off the idle stop screws on both throttle bodies.
• Use the Mathesis tester or a Digital Milli-VoltMeter to read the throttle sensor voltage. To do this you should tap the butterfly with your finger to ensure that the butterfly is completely closed against the body. Then you turn on the ignition and measure the voltage on the throttle sensor:
P7 or P8 ECU: Pins 11 and 17.
1.6M ECU: Pins 16 and 30.
1.5M ECU: Pins 22 and 11.
• If the sensor does not read 150mV Plus or Minus 2mV then you need to adjust it:
i. Slacken the lock screws on the throttle sensor using a screwdriver or 7mm socket.
ii. Carefully move the sensor whilst reading the voltage.
iii. Retighten the lock screws a little at a time, each time reading the voltage and adjusting the sensor.
iv. Note that you should probably overshoot the reading by about 5mV on slack screws, because when you tighten them the reading will change by about 5mV.
v. Repeat until perfect. This takes a lot of practice.
• The factory manuals specify +/- 5mV but we feel that this is not accurate enough. many owners will attest to the difference in performance when the sensor is set perfectly.
• Re-set the throttle stop screw (or screws) so that the engine idles at around 1200 rpm. This is not a final setting for the stop screws, merely a step in the procedure. Typically this will produce a voltage of around 300mV on the TPS. This value is completely arbitrary and is not important. Many people misunderstand the factory manual in this regard and will try resetting the TPS until they get 1200 rpm idle and exactly 300mV on the sensor. THIS IS WRONG !!!. The actual voltage on the sensor at idle is irrelevant to correct sensor positioning on the throttle shaft. Trust Me !!
Synchronize the Butterflies:
• Close the air bleed screws completely by adjusting CLOCKWISE. If you don't do this then the throttle vacuum will still reflect any air passing through the bleed channels and the butterflies will not be perfectly synched.
• Attach vacuum gauges to the manifold port on each cylinder and run the engine.
• Adjust the throttle butterfly link shaft until vacuum is identical.
• Rev the engine and confirm that vacuum tracks on both cylinders throughout the throttle and RPM range.
• Re-adjust the link shaft until satisfactory results are obtained.
• Do Not adjust the throttle link shaft after this point!!
Set the IDLE Balance by adjusting the air bleed screws counterclockwise and confirming that the vacuum is identical for both cylinders at idle. You can rev the engine and observe vacuum tracking through the rev range, and then observe idle vacuum re-stabilizing. NOTE Since the air bleeds are designed to iron out any irregularities in the throttle's function, by their nature there is no default setting, unlike the idle screws on a carburettor. If anything the default setting is fully closed. Air bleeds can also be balanced using a 2 channel CO meter. In this case, just adjust the bleeds until both cylinders have the same CO.
Adjust the IDLE Mixture. Finally you get to set the CO Trimmer ! This will affect both cylinders by the same amount, so you need to set the air bleeds first. A typical CO figure for idle is 4% to 6%, but automotive regulations usually specify a CO of under 1% to meet emmissions standards. A V-twin will idle very poorly if the CO is set below 1%, so if you are really bothered try a setting of about 3%. Note that you may need to finesse the air bleeds at this stage.
Adjust the IDLE RPM. Set the idle rpm at the manufacturer's figure (usually 1100 - 1200 rpm) by adjusting the throttle butterfly stop screw (or screws). We recommend 1200 rpm for Ducatis and Guzzis, possibly 1500 rpm for Ducati 996SPS models.
Finally, note that the last three steps are usually repeated until an acceptable balance of Idle Balance, Idle Mixture, and Idle RPM are obtained. This is normal. Do Not adjust the throttle synchronization link shaft once it is set in the early stages. If you do this now, you will need to go through the entire sequence again.
So hopefully you will have an engine which now idles, accelerates, and delivers full power faultlessly. Again, if you are not confident about all of these steps, then we suggest you use a dealer who has the skills and equipment. It is not worth adjusting the CO trimmer unless the entire sequence is followed without skipping any steps."