I have a 2008 1000 monster and was wondering about low engine speed vibration and engine surging. Is this normal? At rpms aboue 3k the engine runs great. This is my first Ducati so I do not have any experence with there engine performance.
Tx
Ducs are meant to run at higher RPMs down around 3k you're going to have issues with lugging and an unhappy engine. Give it some more gas.
Also, if it's using the factory gearing it's geared a bit tall and makes the threshold where the engine starts to lug, higher in the RPM range. Its very common to change sprockets to change the final drive ratio. The cheap/easy way is with a 14 tooth front sprocket. The better, but more expensive way is a larger (+2-3 tooth) rear sprocket which usually requires a new chain to fit
It is also due to the lean running of the bike (if it's stock that is)
The 1000 comes out stock in the lean dept.
Thanks for the info. The bike has a Leo Vinci pipe installed when I bought it. Should I consider getting an module to change the fuel settings?
They are set abit lean from the factory - but it's not epic. If you're still using the stock paper style filter and have not opened up the air box you should be fine. An aftermarket module may improve things, but it'll run you a few hundred dollars for the parts and tune. So there isn't much return on your $$$s
But if you're going to get a module like that you might as well convert to a free-er flowing fliter, like an oiled cotton one (K&N BCM etc) and and open airbox lid. That will allow more air in. If you add more fuel in this instance you'll get more power.
And so the mod cascade begins.
So spend $0, and just give it some more twist or spend a few hundred $ get some more power out of the deal after installing a PowerCommander/Bazazz etc and a tune.
Yet another option is to pay for ducatidiag and reflash your ecu yourself. Costs about $35 in cables, 100 euros for the writer software, and there is a ftp up with a solid selection of map including the termi ones.
Basically you just attach your laptop to the bike with those cables, reflash to the termi slip on map while ticking the remove lamba sensor checkbox, and you're good to go. After that the only things you'll need to do is slap in a K&N filter (~$40 on amazon) and dremel your airbox lid a bit.
All those things should give you a smoother low end but it's true that all duc's are going to be a bit grumpy under 3k no matter what... prob make a bit more power too but it'll be hard to tell I think.
What I did was the poor mans ECU, a Fat Duc O2 sensor adjuster. I noticed a difference even before I left the block. Below 4000 feels the same as above. No more heavy vibration and surging.
Thanks for the info. What is this sensor you are referring to? (Fat Duc 02)
He's referring to the O2 (oxygen) sensor. The stock maps on the bike are set lean. They can be fooled into running richer by altering the signal from the o2 sensor going to the ECU. The Fat Duc is a little module you plug into the wiring. You disconnect the o2 sensor, attach it to one end of the Fat Duc and plug the other end of the Fat Duc into your bikes wiring. There's a small adjustor on the Fat Duc that can be used to tune the signal adjustment.
Thanks for giving me an answer to my low speed problems. I ordered the adj. O2 sensor. I'll let you guys know how it works out.
I installed the 02 sensor yesterday. There is an noticeable improvement in the off idle performance. I set the adjuster to 3/4 setting. runs much smoother. I have to tweak the idle down a little.
So this is a go. Tx for your help in this.