Hi everyone. I have changed my brake fluid and wanted to torque the bleed nipple to spec. However, with the way my calipers are designed ('07 S2R800), I can't get to the bleed nipple without having to adjust the brake hose angle. So the question is, can I rotate the brake hose to a different angle than from factory without compromising braking performance? As a back story, I've hand tightened the bleed nipple but it's still leaking, thus, the want to use a torque wrench to get it tightened to spec. Thanks in advance!
As long as you don't introduce a kink that would restrict flow, do something that would otherwise compromise the integrity of the hose, or have insufficient free length for any suspension travel you're fine.
You are cracking a seal when you loosen it which *may* let some air in. But I've reoriented a few brake lines with no ill effect over the years. Just be sure to loosen things only as much as needed to alter the position of the line.
Sounds good. Thanks for the quick reply. [thumbsup]
I'd be very careful with that fitting.
I would remove it and check the bleeder and the caliper for dirt/damage. It shouldn't require a torque wrench.
Quote from: ducpainter on March 06, 2012, 09:06:36 AM
I'd be very careful with that fitting.
I would remove it and check the bleeder and the caliper for dirt/damage. It shouldn't require a torque wrench.
Thanks ducpainter. The service manual says to torque to 12nm. I have a 1/4 torque wrench that I can use. As far as removing the bleeder, I'm guessing if I do this, I will need to do a full brake fluid flush? Once I remove the bleeder, are there things I need to replace, maybe an o-ring or gasket?
Quote from: Betlog on March 06, 2012, 09:29:39 AM
Thanks ducpainter. The service manual says to torque to 12nm. I have a 1/4 torque wrench that I can use. As far as removing the bleeder, I'm guessing if I do this, I will need to do a full brake fluid flush? Once I remove the bleeder, are there things I need to replace, maybe an o-ring or gasket?
There is no gasket or o-ring.
It is a machined surface.
If you remove the bleeder and don't touch the lever no air will be introduced, and you can visually inspect the bleeder. If you drain the system to inspect the caliper you'll need to do a full bleed as the lines will empty.
Quote from: ducpainter on March 06, 2012, 09:45:32 AM
There is no gasket or o-ring.
It is a machined surface.
If you remove the bleeder and don't touch the lever no air will be introduced, and you can visually inspect the bleeder. If you drain the system to inspect the caliper you'll need to do a full bleed as the lines will empty.
If I remove the bleeder, can't I inspect the caliper then too? What I should look into are the threads on the bleeder and the threads in the caliper right? Also to check and see if there's anything in the caliper bleeder hole such as dirt? Thanks again.
Quote from: Betlog on March 06, 2012, 09:56:07 AM
If I remove the bleeder, can't I inspect the caliper then too? What I should look into are the threads on the bleeder and the threads in the caliper right? Also to check and see if there's anything in the caliper bleeder hole such as dirt? Thanks again.
You need to look at the machined mating surfaces for dirt or damage. The brakes make an enormous amount of pressure and the smallest piece of grit could cause a leak.
You might not be able to see the caliper surface well enough with fluid oozing out. The only time threads would be an issue would be if the caliper cracked.
Is there a backstory to this?
Was it leaking before you flushed the fluid?
Quote from: ducpainter on March 06, 2012, 10:03:33 AM
You need to look at the machined mating surfaces for dirt or damage. The brakes make an enormous amount of pressure and the smallest piece of grit could cause a leak.
You might not be able to see the caliper surface well enough with fluid oozing out. The only time threads would be an issue would be if the caliper cracked.
Is there a backstory to this?
Was it leaking before you flushed the fluid?
By machined mating surface, I'm assuming this is the flat spot at the bottom of the caliper threads that the bleed valve locks into on full close?
Also, no back story, I just wanted to change the fluid as I don't think it's ever been replaced (I'm the second owner). I did see a bit of fluid oozing out prior to the change but not enough leak to make it noticeable. Thus, I only saw it when I started the flush. Here's what I will do based on what you told me:
1) Remove the bleed valve making sure not to press on the brake lever.
2) Clean up the valve.
3) Try to look in the caliper threads and clean it as best I can.
4) If it's too much of a problem, flush the whole system and look at the caliper threads.
BTW, when the valve is off, should I expect fluid to gush out or will it eventually stop due to the closed system? I guess the system is kinda like a turkey baster at that point, right?
Yes, a turkey baster is a good analogy.