what's a simple cheap method to do this.
i don't have a garage and live in an apartment. large tools won't cut it.
i was initially thinking a large c-clamp but people have mentioned it doesn't get close enough.
The C-clamp has proven successful from what I have heard, at least worth a try given the low cost. If I remember correctly, the individual used two pieces of wood on opposite sides of the tire. I also watched a youtube video (I know, don't believe everything you see...) where a fellow had built a contraption out of wood and a couple of hinges as a sort of lever to break the bead, here is the link:
Change a motorcycle tyre by hand. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anyY0UO5gqk&feature=related#)
If you search on youtube, there are quite a few videos which show various methods of doing this, some safer than others, in my opinion...
I can confirm that this method works. When I did my first tire change last December I used a sliding bar c-clamp and worked it around the tire and then used a pry bar to collapse the tire fully. The pry bar worked better on the rear tire. The frustration level was high.
WOW, too much headache. just pay $20 for a local shop to do it. Good luck though ;D
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-bead-breaker-98875.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-bead-breaker-98875.html)
$22 for life and break all the beads you want. Arm not included.
Stores in a closet.
Haa, ^ Might want to buy the $5 tire iron too if you want to do anymore more of just breaking the bead.
Quote from: Skyshadow on March 08, 2012, 01:02:15 PM
Haa, ^ Might want to buy the $5 tire iron too if you want to do anymore more of just breaking the bead.
"Stubby" tire irons are the best. Phenolic plastic, no scratching ever, very good.
i have a set of short tire irons, just need to break the bead.
i think i'm going to pick up the harbor freight option tomorrow. hopefully that saves me some headache if the c clamps are so fussy. although i have to admit that i am curious just how difficult it is...
got the large tire bead breaker from harbor freight. was just under $30 after a coupon.
worked well for me.
another question, does anyone else have problems with the wheel alignment plates rotating when trying to tighten the rear wheel? any way to prevent this from turning? they are scratching up my rear dual swingarm.
I ended up buying the aluminum ones with the tabs. I thought the OEM ones with only a lower tab were hopeless.
Quote from: battlecry on March 11, 2012, 01:43:16 PM
I ended up buying the aluminum ones with the tabs. I thought the OEM ones with only a lower tab were hopeless.
+1
>>another question, does anyone else have problems with the wheel alignment plates rotating when trying to tighten the rear wheel? any way to prevent this from turning? they are scratching up my rear dual swingarm.
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54795.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=54795.0)
Quote from: battlecry on March 11, 2012, 01:43:16 PM
I ended up buying the aluminum ones with the tabs. I thought the OEM ones with only a lower tab were hopeless.
where can i buy said aluminum ones?
Quote from: live2ride on March 16, 2012, 11:58:00 AM
where can i buy said aluminum ones?
http://corsair-industries.com/parts/Ducati%20Billet%20Parts/Ducati%20Axle%20Adjusting%20Plate%2017mm%20Aluminum/ (http://corsair-industries.com/parts/Ducati%20Billet%20Parts/Ducati%20Axle%20Adjusting%20Plate%2017mm%20Aluminum/)