04 620, 49,009m
I had the opportunity to pull my side cover off today and when I did there's lots of oily crap inside the clutch slave.
the push rod o-rings are new'ish, and this is the second set I've gone through in the last 43k miles.
normally I'd just replace the orings, but this seems to be a recurring thing now and I'm not sure what the problem is.
any ideas or suggestions?
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/293810_3603940542382_1389679964_3358771_950051508_n.jpg)
seems like you need some "new-er'ish" o-rings ;)
Quote from: sofadriver on March 28, 2012, 09:28:40 PM
seems like you need some "new-er'ish" o-rings ;)
yeah, I'd think so too, but seems to be a recurring problem and I'm just putting a band aid on it.
the last set I put on in September 2011, around 5,000 miles ago.. seems kind of soon to me.
Stiction in the pressure plate bearing could spin the push rod and take out the o rings and even later spin the slave piston, taking it out.
is it oil or brake fluid?
I've wondered why the fluid quickly turns dark in the clutch reservoir on my S2R1000 and other Ducatis. I just did a fluid change and it is already turning. Is there a relationship here?
-Jeff
Quote from: brad black on March 29, 2012, 02:56:22 AM
is it oil or brake fluid?
it looks like oil to me and my clutch fluid is almost brand new. Of course I don't really have a way to distinguish oil from dirty clutch fluid.
Quote from: koko64 on March 28, 2012, 09:58:35 PM
Stiction in the pressure plate bearing could spin the push rod and take out the o rings and even later spin the slave piston, taking it out.
hmm i was wondering about that last night. I'm not worried about the slave piston, it has a bearing to manage the spin. I guess I'll be pulling off both sides now.
Quote from: Privateer on March 29, 2012, 06:23:10 AM
it looks like oil to me and my clutch fluid is almost brand new. Of course I don't really have a way to distinguish oil from dirty clutch fluid.
hmm i was wondering about that last night. I'm not worried about the slave piston, it has a bearing to manage the spin. I guess I'll be pulling off both sides now.
There's an easy way - brown paper bag. Get some of that fluid on it. Oil will be.. oily turning the paper translucent and won't evaporate. Brake fluid will be more like water.
Quote from: Sad Panda on March 29, 2012, 08:05:51 AM
There's an easy way - brown paper bag. Get some of that fluid on it. Oil will be.. oily turning the paper translucent and won't evaporate. Brake fluid will be more like water.
good tip, thank you.
I ordered a ca cycleworks gasket today, i'm going to pull the clutch cover when it shows up and check the throw out bearing for good measure.
discovered a leaking fork seal too. not my week for motorcycles apparently. 40k miles seems to be, for me, when stuff starts to fail.
Quote from: Privateer on March 29, 2012, 06:23:10 AM
it looks like oil to me and my clutch fluid is almost brand new. Of course I don't really have a way to distinguish oil from dirty clutch fluid.
hmm i was wondering about that last night. I'm not worried about the slave piston, it has a bearing to manage the spin. I guess I'll be pulling off both sides now.
taste it... ;D
since I'll have the clutch side cover off, when is a good time to replace the clutch pack?
I don't feel it slipping, but I envision it being a boiled frog kind of thing.
Is there something to look for that will indicate it's due to replace?
Steels not scored or blue? They are still good. There is a spec on friction disk thickness, off hand I don't know what it is, I will look it up later. ^ speed or 5 speed?
Over 60K on my original clutch , so don't be surprised if all is well.
Howie, his 620 is a 6-speed.
Parts manual says it's an APTC clutch.
There is a minimum thickness spec on the plates.
OEM plates are the best replacements I've found.
APTC plates are different from the early 'standard' plates.
Quote from: Speeddog on March 30, 2012, 09:27:02 AM
Howie, his 620 is a 6-speed.
Parts manual says it's an APTC clutch.
There is a minimum thickness spec on the plates.
OEM plates are the best replacements I've found.
APTC plates are different from the early 'standard' plates.
thank you nick and howie.
I was at the dealer getting crush washers last night. The throwout bearing is ~$55 and the clutch pack is ~$360 so I'll need to wait for another paycheck on that one.
well that didn't work.
Only getting 9v at the battery. Jumped off my car to get it running, tried to check the voltage at the stator and the connector was hot with a scorch mark. Too frustrated to work on it more, so I'll have to try again tomorrow, see what kind of voltage the stator is putting out. really really hoping I didn't fry the stator again.
/sigh
well i know why it died and won't start or charge
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8994/photo0025c.jpg)
(http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/4259/photo0027fa.jpg)
I saw that and I didn't even bother checking the stator voltage.
Any point in even having the old stator inspected?
Any opinions on the rectifier based on that plug?
That plug is ALWAYS the first thing to check when the bike isn't charging. Chances are there is more burning going back to the stator. You will need to cut back until you get to shiny, good copper. At that point, check stator resistance for grounds and opens. I don't know a real Ducati spec, but take your ohmmeter and check for resistance between all three wires. No continuity means open circuit (bad stator). You should have low, but equal resistance between all three wires Unequal (one or two lower) means a grounded stator winding. I will check for a real Ducati spec later if I can. Or maybe Speeddog or Brad Black or someone else will check in with a spec. Did the regulator die? Unless there are other signs of damage (smell, oozing) you will not know until you get the stator functioning.
Most folk replace the bad stator wire with heavier gauge wire and many eliminate that cheesy connector by soldering directly to prevent the problem in the future. I like having a connector for ease of future diagnosis. Do use a better connector and pack with dielectric grease.
i cut off the bunt plug and when I check ohms (switch at 200) between the 3 wires (a-b, b-c, a-c) I get -2.4 pretty much for each.
i'll admit I don't know if that's good or bad. anyone?
And is there a specific kind of connector should I ask for at the local electronics shop or just any 3 pin deal?
Quote from: Privateer on April 06, 2012, 10:34:12 AM
i cut off the bunt plug and when I check ohms (switch at 200) between the 3 wires (a-b, b-c, a-c) I get -2.4 pretty much for each.
i'll admit I don't know if that's good or bad. anyone?
Sounds good, can't be sure though since I don't have a real spec. I'll measure mine tomorrow if no one chimes in.
And is there a specific kind of connector should I ask for at the local electronics shop or just any 3 pin deal?
Any quality connector capable of handling 45 or more amps (16 gauge will do), preferably of weatherpack design. Tyco Ampseal would be one. Any auto parts store that deals with professionals should be able to help you out.
Quote from: howie on April 06, 2012, 11:13:56 PM
Any quality connector capable of handling 45 or more amps (16 gauge will do), preferably of weatherpack design. Tyco Ampseal would be one. Any auto parts store that deals with professionals should be able to help you out.
awesome, thank you. I have a electrical supply place nearby that primarily caters to B2B that is staffed with mostly electronic nerds (and I mean that with the utmost respect) so I'll check in there with them.
Check with Ford Electronics, IIRC they're in Buena Park or thereabouts.
ok, i give up, what's the trick to getting the magnet thing off the flywheel?
I'm about to push this make the beast with two backsing thing out into the street and hope someone steals it or runs it over.
any help, anyone?
I don't completely understand your question.
Center nut will allow the complete flywheel assembly off of the crank.
There's a ring of 8-10 bolts attaching the magnet ring to the flywheel.
Re: the throwout bearing, you should be able to get one from any bearing shop for a heap less than $55.
Quote from: Speeddog on April 18, 2012, 09:55:25 PM
There's a ring of 8-10 bolts attaching the magnet ring to the flywheel.
sorry i was very frustrated last night.
it's those bolts holding the magnet ring on. It seems like I need to hold the ring still with something but I can't find a tool to do so and my desmotimes book doesn't mention it.
When I turn the bolts, the whole things turns.
Put the trans in 6th gear, have an assistant hold the brake, that should do it.
why are you removing that?
there's some kind of thread locker on those bolts? I'm guessing based on the brand new torx socket I just destroyed.
Quote from: brad black on April 19, 2012, 04:12:48 PM
why are you removing that?
a trusted and respected source informed me the basket and the stator are a matched set and recommended replacing them together.
doesn't matter at this point, I can't get the bolts off. I got one off then broke the socket. all i've done to this bike the last month is spend money and not put a single mile on it.
You know you're in trouble when you try to take money out of your 'motorcycle account' at the bank and the ATM denies you for insufficient funds.
But, thanks to Nick I have my bike back and running.
Apparently the new-ish rectifier and stator both fried themselves in an epic battle to engulf my bike in flames. He swapped in a working rectifier and replaced the stator i got from Stu and all is once again right with the world.
The added bonus of seeing joel and michelle while I was picking it up made the drive worthwhile.
so when I was shopping for a new rectifier, I notice over at CA Cycleworks the Electrosport r/r i bought has a one year warranty. I didn't have a lot of confidence that it would be covered but I figured I wasn't out anything by asking.
I emailed CA Cycleworks who directed me to Electrosport. Turns out Electrosport is about 10 minutes from my office. So I worked it out with them so I could just drop it off instead of shipping it. I stopped by today after work, expecting to drop it off and get called back, but the guy says "I'll check it right now." Great! Sticks a multi meter on it, i hear a bunch of short beeps followed by one long beep. He says "something something diode something something. Let me grab you a new one."
Great!
Walked out 5 minutes later with a new rectifier.
unmake the beast with two backsing believable that I'm going through this same bullshit again.
Quote from: Privateer on October 16, 2014, 08:02:13 PM
unmake the beast with two backsing believable that I'm going through this same bullshit again.
So you've determined what failed?
I know the rectifier was fried, so after replacing it I tried to measure DC out of it. I was getting ~13v at the battery, but when I disconnected the rectifier, from the harness and measured across the pins there I was getting like 4v. I had my multimeter on the 'V' symbol with the straight line and the dashed line.
Clearly I'm doing something wrong, as the bike runs fine and the battery charges up OK. What's the trick to measuring DC out of the rectifier?
What pins were you using? Also, you should not run the regulator open circuit.