I'm doing some work on my wiring. It would be really nice if I could pop the contacts out of the ECU connectors so that I can slide sleeving and heatshrink etc onto the cable. However I'm missing something in the disassembly, as I can't seem to get the damned things apart.
I've made a bunch of photos showing what I've done so far (perhaps they can be useful to someone else).
First step is to pop off the retaining clip:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NLME3_OQR8Y/T4wJB5PG7KI/AAAAAAAABJo/PdpdHj-I5C4/s1223/DSC_2945_annotated.jpg)
The cover doesn't pop off (as I worked out after ten minutes of trying). It slides, and you have to disengage two little tabs by pushing them outwards first:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xHlCUhqa-2c/T4wJGH3_bmI/AAAAAAAABJw/7bMnMJDDdjk/s1223/DSC_2946_annotated.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B6b38ETfG0Q/T4wJKQZlAQI/AAAAAAAABJ4/y08gU6OhrAo/s1223/DSC_2948_annotated.jpg)
The pink insert thingy holds the wire seal. It pops straight out along the wires, after the four little obvious clips are released:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Thgke4R0YuU/T4wJO-ubGPI/AAAAAAAABKA/ixp51q4-uUg/s1223/DSC_2950_annotated.jpg)
It helps to untangle the wires a little, to give the seal somewhere to slide.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VVTjVJMsEWM/T4wJSuL04iI/AAAAAAAABKI/iIfXRqfylI4/s1223/DSC_2953_annotated.jpg)
At the bottom of the connector is a yellow thingy that slides out. I assume it's a gate that stops the individual terminals from sliding back. However when I slide it out, the terminals won't budge.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-666Z55EQ9Yo/T4wJWpdrsgI/AAAAAAAABKQ/3lu2PknvUeU/s1223/DSC_2955_annotated.jpg)
That's pretty-much where I'm at. Tugging on the wires (using reasonable force, I don't want to break them) has no effect. I'm assuming that perhaps there's a tool I need to make or buy to push in the front of the connector to slide the terminals out...
Is anyone familiar with these connectors? Does anyone know their name and brand? There's no makers mark that I can identify on them - searches for ducati ECU connector come up with mobs that will sell you the connectors, but nothing resembling info on how to use them, and no hints as to who makes them so I can search further...
FWIW, here's a mob that sells them: http://www.mmcompsys.com/assets/Ducati%20wiring%20parts%20retail%20price%20list_01.pdf (http://www.mmcompsys.com/assets/Ducati%20wiring%20parts%20retail%20price%20list_01.pdf)
Any help would be great.
If you look at it front on - looking straight down the holes in the brown section can you see any retaining clips on either side, or for each individual pin?
I look forward to the solution. [beer]
I bet Stu would know...
Cripes - if Suzy can't figure out an electrics matter us mortals have no hope!
impressive effort. step 2 is generally where i start breaking shit. assuming step 1 went ok anyway.
Sorry kids, I didn't work it out.
I settled for disassembling every single other connector on the loom, and threading braid and heatshrink on from the other end...
Here's a photo of one of the connectors, with it's new braid and heatshrink in place. I'm considering putting a boot on, but it would be for decorative value only, as the back of the connector isn't sealed. Instead each individual wire is sealed.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-teAaEhRqIec/T5U_cc1S4UI/AAAAAAAABOQ/PKeyMDZ42vs/s1223/DSC_3025.jpg)
And an aside: I'm amazed my bike ever ran at all. The shielded wire shown on the wiring diagram for the crank sensor turns out to be three core plain cable, a good healthy 40cm longer than it needs to be. The really funny one is the coil wiring. The wire for the vertical coil goes forward from the ECU, around the steerer, then all the way back along the frame to the coil under the seat. I measured the wire - it's 1.8m, and not a hint of shielding or RFI suppression of any kind. The wire for the positive coil is barely better, at 1.5m... Injector wires are 1.2m, and they're just 30cm from the ECU plug...
Once I'm done with this loom it's going to have literally 1/3rd as much wire in it.
Great job Suzy.
The crank sensor wire is not shielded on the 2003 M800S either. I used the 3M copper foil tape and a drain wire to ground. Did the same for the 3 stator wires that were close by the crank sensor but didn't think of doing the coils. Do you think it may be enough to twist the wires with maybe some bypass capacitors?
Was thinking that on your new harness you may want to be able to disconnect the two wires that are always hot draining juice to the instrument cluster and the ECU. May be good for your A123-type battery not to have the drain.
Hello, need to revive this thread; have a bike that had the ECU reflashed due to IMMO and owner not having either red key or code card, bike is not starting, can you tell me how to ground the PIN33?
Revive.. IMO this really should live under the FAQs or Tutorials
They look an awful lot like high-density D-sub sockets. We use them on airplane wiring harnesses all the time.
Insertion/extraction tool: http://www.amazon.com/DURATOOL-FORMERLY-FROM-SPC-EXTRACTION/dp/B00DKYMQIW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1392860906&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=high+density+insertion%2Fextraction+too (http://www.amazon.com/DURATOOL-FORMERLY-FROM-SPC-EXTRACTION/dp/B00DKYMQIW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1392860906&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=high+density+insertion%2Fextraction+too)
If I'm right (BIG if) then you'll need to slide the seal farther back to get access to the wires from the back of the connector.
In my experience the extractor actually works better once the little leaves break off.