Ducati Monster Forum

A second stripped socket head where the allen wrench has stripped it and no longer can turn it. Last time it was a bolt on the Clutch Slave Cylinder this time the bolt that holds the shifter on to the shifter linkage. I was actually trying to turn the nut behind it and was just using the allen wrench to hold the bolt in place. Is this due to crappy allen wrenches or are these bolts soft? I'm powder coating my rearsets and brake and shifter "pedals" and now I cant get the shifter off due to this stripped bolt. Not to mention how the hell do you get the rubber tips off the pedals without ruining them? Is there a trick to that? I got the brake pedal off but I'm afraid to damage the rubber tip and its not coming off easy. Any tips?

Make sure your Allen wrench is seated properly into the bolt before wrenching on it. If its not all the way in you'll round it out every time. Also, if youre still using the "L" allen keys, invest in some Allen head sockets. Much easier.

Got the shifter bolt off by using the Dremel to put a slot in it and was able to use a screwdriver to hold it while I turned the nut on back. This didnt work on the Clutch Slave Cylinder bolt which was apparently forged by Satan himself. So I bought an easy out kit. Drilled the hole in the bolt okay but the extractor... broke off in the bolt. WTF?!?! So apparently this clutch slave cylinder shall NEVER be removed from this bike. The reason I was trying to get it off is because I'm putting on a new 14T Sprocket and Chain. The sprocket wouldnt slide out with the chain because the slave cylinder gets in the way  so I had to cut the chain to get the sprocket out which I was okay with because I was putting on a new chain anyway. BUT will I be able to get a new chain on with the slave cylinder in the way without threading on to the front sprocket while the sprocket is mounted and riveting it together while its on the front sprocket teeth. Or do I just use a clip? I was hoping to rivet the chain. Ugh!  [bang]

Its the bottom bolt on the clutch slave cylinder shown below

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7237554516_db9d33cdd6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237554516/)
IMG_5207 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237554516/#) by ricknieto (http://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr

Close up of the bolt you can see the slot and broken extractor bit in it...

(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8005/7237555024_b9ef7cede1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237555024/)
IMG_5206 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237555024/#) by ricknieto (http://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr

Here's the extractor bit with the tip broken off

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/7237553898_986de480dd.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237553898/)
IMG_5208 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/65036619@N04/7237553898/#) by ricknieto (http://www.flickr.com/people/65036619@N04/), on Flickr

 [laugh]

A healthy dose of PB Blaster and grab it with a wrench? Enough of the technical shit. Get old school on that thing

Pre-drill and use EZ out by hand. You can try to heat it first with soldering iron

This might be a dumb question, but you are using metric allen wrenches, right?

Another tricky aspect of this thing is the way its set back behind the Clutch Slave Cylinder so really I need a longer extractor bit.  I was using a T-bar made for that extractor bit to try and do turn the extractor by hand thats whats in the picture. Made by Irwin... not sure if Irwins tools are any good or not. I might try a slightly bigger and longer extractor and drill it again through that broken bit. You think heat will help? I hadnt thought about that. I do have a soldering iron sitting about 5 feet away from this thing so I could give that a whirl with the bigger extractor if you'd think it would help. Just press the soldering iron on the bolt to heat it up before I try the bigger extractor?

 I am torn between the hex heads and the torx heads.  The torx heads are supposedly better to prevent stripping but for the smaller sizes, I thought that the raised hex is better, e.g.

(http://www.badriengg.com/gallery/Fastners%20&%20Tools/ALLEN%20BOLT.jpg)

as opposed to

(http://www.nexusracing.com/images/902308.jpg)

It pays to buy quality tools.

Cheers

Yes metric allens but they are L Allen wrenches. I do have some sockets but not all sizes. That will be my next purchase. I heard the Sears extractor kits are supposed to be good to so maybe I'll try those.

Hex wrenches and bolts wear over time.  Inspect them now and then and make sure the corners are sharp.

Also, get some jeweler's paste and dip the top of the wrench in and clean the bolt head before use.  Jeweler's paste is just a fine gritty paste and prevents slippage.

Some bolts are torqued down and would be better removed with an impact driver.  I have a manual one for tight spots.  Bang it with a hammer a few times and 90% of them come right out.

But yes, pick up some good quality sockets and inspect them when you use them.

I dont have an impact driver is that what you're referring to with the hammer?

Yeah.

(http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/hand-impact_s.jpg)

Mine has a 1/2" socket and comes with screw heads, but you can put any 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on it with a hex head socket to remove stuff.  Excellent tool to have around.

You use a hammer with it which both pushes the socket while it turns.  That prevents it from jumping out. 

if they dont go right away i usually use a bit and a hammer to shake it loose first then it usually comes loose after 2-3 hits, just to shake the corrosion or whatever loose, the impact drivers work awesome if you can get it in there for overtorqued bolts [bang]

i would use a larger "ez out" or extractor. the set i have have quite a "blunt" tip on them so that in a case such as yours, the extractor will bite on the head of the bolt as opposed to the hole in the shaft of the bolt. larger tool gripping a larger surface = less chance of breaking. and definately do it by hand! same as with taps, ez outs are best used with patience and finese.

good luck with it!

A couple of sound smacks with a hammer on a punch, inside the cavity of a Torx or obstinate allen fastener will usually release it enough that normal tools will work.
But quality (Craftsman or better) drivers are a very worthwhile addition to your toolbox.

I've got a set of Snap-on Torx bits, one size is used only for removing rotor bolts, that insert has been replaced twice, and I've got a spare.
The other Torx bits are usually used for removing the rare stripped allen bolt, hammer the appropriate size in, and remove the bolt.

Torx was devised by the sadistic bastard son of Mr. Phillips.
Both of their namesake fasteners are best removed and relegated to the round file.