Ducati Monster Forum

I love the look of these frame sliders and the price is very reasonable.... my concern is will they hold together and protect the bike as they should under crash conditions?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150821196183?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_18340wt_1413 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/150821196183?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_18340wt_1413)

what do you guys think?

Depends. Wonder if they will hold up. There's 2 arguments for frame sliders. One that it will break off. And the other if it's too sturdy that if it catches your bike will flip.

I used these:

http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=50 (http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=50)

come on guys, you know you really don't need those things if you just don't drop your bike! [thumbsup]

Got a pic of those T-Rex on you're bike?  [popcorn]

Sliders: stopped or low speed, can be a bike saver.
            Med to high speed: sliders catching on something will be the least of your worries.

I use these
http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=510 (http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=510)

Edit: I'd stick with a quality made slider from a known entity.

I use the motovations also.  [thumbsup]

I use SpeedyMoto sliders on my bike. I think the MotovationUSA, Rizoma, and T-Rex sliders are all quality products too.  I would be afraid to use anything else.

speedymoto frame sliders will go on every bike I own.

the entire slider is made of a form of delrin that secretes oils as it gets ground down to help it slide. the mount is from a solid piece of some heavy grade aircraft aluminum (dont know what, but its over built.)  the new ones use a machineed piece as a spacer to allow the slider to mount securely but spin in place to allow it to slide even easier.

they are also the only thing that kept my bike from being totalled when I had my ~40mph highside.

ive met the guys that own/run it too. very dedicated to making the best product they can.  If anyone ever is unsatisfied with the product in any way I would recommend they contact them directly.

I am not an engineer, but that kit's motor mount* looks like it's aluminum.... I think I'd stick to a brand that makes it out of steel.

that said, chris over at cyclecat needs to get on making sliders for the new bikes so I can buy one  ;D



:edit: *the stud that runs through the frame

been happy with the Axljak's I put on my GF's M620 and she has dumped it over a couple times on 1 side and no issues whatsoever...

Believe the delrin or compound is called "UHMW-PE". All frame sliders nowadays should be made of that stuff. OP you can't go wrong with any of the frame slider makers. You won't notice a difference in quality as most of them are made of the same material, just priced for their own profit margins.

delrin is a brand name for acetal, UHMW is UHMW. different plastics.

I'm considering the TRex as the price is right. Can you put frame plugs in the ends of the frame sliders ? I'm looking at also picking up the Corse Dynamics frame plugs and am wondering if I should get enough for the frame slider.

perhaps not in the sliders themselves, but ive seen no shortage of inferior mounts fail, either ripping the slider off at the mount or destroying the mount on impact. sliders cant slide if they arent attached to the frame...

The T-Rex ones replace one of the stock bars holding the engine to the frame. You will just line up the new bar and use a rubber mallet and knock it through. You may need to jack up your engine to take some weight off and make it easier. I will say the T-Rex metal feels of higher quality than whatever Ducati used.

many of them replace the engine bolt like that. ill try and remember to take a picture of the one at work that had the puck ripped out of the mount.

if you are replacing an engine bolt with something that will be taking huge impacts, you want to get the strongest, best made piece you can find. frame sliders are ugly, get the one that functions best.

Yeah this is the step that had me a bit nervours.   :-\ It tells you to knock out your engine mount bolt with a bar and mallet in the T-Rex install Directions. But...then whats holding my engine up? They dont tell you prop up the engine first. I figure there's got to be another point where the engine is attached to the frame otherwise they'd tell you to prop up the engine but I dont know where that is so I stopped cold. It sounds like I should be putting a cinder block or something else to prop up the engine while performing this step. Correct? Any advice or insight here?

Prop up the engine.

Rear bike stand and a car jack? I've currently got rear bike stand and a cinder block + brick + 2x4 block of wood but it's not really propping it up as much as waiting for it to fall. I worry that if it does drop a bit from removing the engine bolt that I'll be hard pressed to get it back up to the right height to pass through the new bolt. Can I push the old bolt out with the new one so that it never really drops?

I am waiting on a set of Motovation frame sliders I have ordered.

I am planning to use a car jack to prop the engine when removing the bolt - My plan is to push out the bolt a little with whatever is handy (not the new bolt in case the thread gets damaged) then pull it out the rest of the way adjusting the car jack, at the same time, to the right height such that the bolt pulls out as smoothly as possible.  I plan to insert the new stud just before the original bolt is removed (in case engine and/or frame moves).  Can't tell if this will work though until I get the parts to try it.

I want to add a new query to the list though.  Isn't the original engine bolt a 10.9 grade (on the M696)?  The replacements (including Motovation) tend to be stainless steel which is at best an 8.8 grade.  Typically higher grade = higher cost, so manufacturers don't use them unless they need to.  Can anyone advise if the torque spec in the Motovation installation manual is the same as Ducati's torque spec for that engine bolt?  Has anyone had issues with the bolt coming loose or any frame/engine movement with the sliders installed?

kickstand, car jack under the motor with a block of wood juuust snug-like. then loosen the engine bolt, remove, install sliders.

easy peasy lemon squeezey



speedymoto uses cromoly for their stud

I personally have been looking at the Woodcraft sliders, due to the fact that I don't have to remove the engine bolt. What do you guys think of them?

http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=50-0660STD (http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=50-0660STD)

Thanks for the tip!  May have to reconsider what I have ordered.
Does the piece that screws onto the main stud use a washer?  It looks narrower than a standard nut or bolt head.

As for the Woodcraft sliders, I just thought they stood out too much (visually, not physically).  That's only a matter of personal opinion though.  I just have this mental image of people with cars that have big plastic protectors on the doors and bumpers.

Removing the engine bolt was super easy. I went a with car jack and a piece of wood . Rubber Mallet Tapped out the engine bolt using the new bolt from T-Rex so there was a continuous bolt support through the engine. Then threw on the sliders washers and bolts with a little grease on the shaft but no Loctite; 45ft/lbs torque

There will NEVER be a shortage of thoughts and opinions on this forum.
Thats my opinion!

honestly, I don't remeber if is used a washer or not.... I think it may have, but don't quote me on that



that looks like a damn solid way to mount the slider...