I have a 98' M900 with FCR 41's.
I have owned the the bike for 3 years...and without fail every 9-12 months I have clogged, stuck float or something which requires my mechanic to take the FCR's apart
clean, blowout etc.
Just wondering if this a common issue....it's getting old!! >:(
Are you getting blockages or unseated floats and flooding? I have found with both the stock and FCR carbs that I get unseated floats two or three times a year. By that I mean gunk between the float needle and valve causing flooding. I believe it to be additives in the higher octane fuels I use (hi comp) causing wax or varnish deposits.
A tap to the side of a float bowl at idle while parked or turning the fuel tap off for 20 seconds then back on while riding cures it. I have also taken the float bowl drain nut off and drained fuel into a spray can lid a few times over the years on bikes with the fuel tap open to "wash the float needle".
If your carbs are getting really clagged that often requiring dissassembly I would be concerned about your tank innards, fuel supply quality or effectiveness of your fuel
filter. Some gas station tanks are cleaner than others and I have found one brand of gas (here in Oz) to clag open my float needles every time I use it to a greater degree than the other brands. Motorcycle riders avoid that brand of fuel on common knowledge.
Exactly!!
The last time 6/11.
I installed new screen, tank & lines.
I use the bike for commuting, about 350 miles weekly & always use 92 oct
Gas.
Real pain!! [thumbsdown]
A fuel engineer explained to me that modern fuels are made for high pressure injection systems. They have detergents that help clean injectors but that those very additives can build up in low pressure carb systems and do the opposite. 45psi Vs 3psi.
The premium fuels may have more additives so if you are running stock compression it would be worth trying to use the regular gas. Some guys in the States find that their bikes dont run as well with premium. Its worth experimenting with brands as a local brand down here has higher octane that causes rough running even in injected bikes and makes my carb overflow hose run like a tap/faucet. Premium is a waste of money with 9:1 compression. I have to use the high octane or the bike will ping with 11-1 compression.
A manual fuel tap helps if the bike floods on the go. I turn it off till the carbs get low then open it to slam the floats shut..
Dont give up on those FCRs!
Koko64
Thanks for the education... On gas & carbed Monsters;
I appreciate it!!!
I am going to get more comfortable tinkering on this bike
So I can hopefully avoid down time like I am in currently.
Thanks
+1... Good info here.
I've noticed that at my local Gulf station (Massachusetts), that my bike runs worse on premium. Never thought about additives for FI injectors!
Quote from: 118811 on June 11, 2012, 11:52:20 AM
I have a 98' M900 with FCR 41's.
I have owned the the bike for 3 years...and without fail every 9-12 months I have clogged, stuck float or something which requires my mechanic to take the FCR's apart
clean, blowout etc.
Just wondering if this a common issue....it's getting old!! >:(
This sounds more like some kind of dirt or debris getting stuck between the float needle and the needle seat. But, just for grins, what brand of gas ( not necessarily octane ) are you using?
You might be able to try Seafoam through the gas every 6mo or so. Might be able to clean out some of the build up before its gets to be a problem.
Quote from: MacDuck on June 12, 2012, 09:48:04 AM
This sounds more like some kind of dirt or debris getting stuck between the float needle and the needle seat. But, just for grins, what brand of gas ( not necessarily octane ) are you using?
Chevron 92 usually, always 92 though.
The cylinder's were "hydro-locked" as my mechanic suggested. Drained the oil and gas that has seeped in to the cylinder's via the stuck open FCR's :-\
Quote from: 118811 on June 12, 2012, 02:00:25 PM
Chevron 92 usually, always 92 though.
The cylinder's were "hydro-locked" as my mechanic suggested. Drained the oil and gas that has seeped in to the cylinder's via the stuck open FCR's :-\
You
need to change to a manual petcock to positively shut off the fuel.
I typically have a little issue in the spring after storage, but it resolves itself on the first ride.
Stock carbs fwiw.
Quote from: 118811 on June 12, 2012, 02:00:25 PM
Chevron 92 usually, always 92 though.
The cylinder's were "hydro-locked" as my mechanic suggested. Drained the oil and gas that has seeped in to the cylinder's via the stuck open FCR's :-\
Had the same thing with Mikuni CVs and FCRs. Hurts to waste a fresh oil change. I learned to turn the tap off each night.
Quote from: koko64 on June 12, 2012, 03:45:04 PM
Had the same thing with Mikuni CVs and FCRs. Hurts to waste a fresh oil change. I learned to turn the tap off each night.
That's the only positive...it is time for new oil & filter!! [roll]
Quote from: DesmoTull on June 12, 2012, 04:37:29 AMI've noticed that at my local Gulf station (Massachusetts), that my bike runs worse on premium. Never thought about additives for FI injectors!
you might want to do an ignition timing check, it may or may not be off. our bikes are set up (ignition included) to run on premium, even though it totally isnt necessary with 9.0:1 compression. you might find the timing is a bit retarded. If it IS retarded, setting it back to stock will actually give you a bump in power as well.
Quote from: ducpainter on June 12, 2012, 03:03:25 PM
You need to change to a manual petcock to positively shut off the fuel.
x2
I recently removed my vacuum petcock completely after discovering it didnt work worth a crap. I'll be installing a manual petcock asap
Quote from: motoxmann on June 12, 2012, 07:42:47 PM
x2
I recently removed my vacuum petcock completely after discovering it didnt work worth a crap. I'll be installing a manual petcock asap
Yes.... I plan to that too
Do have a particular one in mind?
Quote from: 118811 on June 12, 2012, 10:51:20 PM
Yes.... I plan to that too
Do have a particular one in mind?
I used a Pingle copy from Parts Unlimited.
Quote from: 118811 on June 12, 2012, 10:51:20 PM
Yes.... I plan to that too
Do have a particular one in mind?
I haven't actually looked around yet to see what's out there lol. I'm currently in the middle of getting the frame powdercoated, cleaning everything, re-lubing everything, and overhauling the motor. so my main concern right now is just getting all that work done first, letting my bank account recover, then work on the little stuff :p
Quote from: motoxmann on June 12, 2012, 07:40:50 PM
you might want to do an ignition timing check, it may or may not be off. our bikes are set up (ignition included) to run on premium, even though it totally isnt necessary with 9.0:1 compression. you might find the timing is a bit retarded. If it IS retarded, setting it back to stock will actually give you a bump in power as well.
Did some research... I'll have to check it! Thanks for the heads up. FYI - if you have hi comps, you want it to be 2-3 degree advance.
If you have hi comp oistons you should retard your ignition 2-3 degrees. You can get bad pinging with hi comp pistons with standard ignition tkming, so advancing the timing could hole a piston.
Check the search function on this for ways to do it and check the bikeboy site.
My mechanic stated with quite certainty that my carb issue IS more than bad gas buildup.....he says last time (cleaned up the carbs) ....there were fragments which he
believes to be from the diaphragm of the fuel pump...?
My question is a new fuel pump or get a rebuild kit?
Also, I want to get a in line fuel shut off valve.....all the 5/16 ones I have come across say not to use on 300 cc or larger motors!!!? Not enough flow volume?
Thoughts?
Get the square one from CA-Cycleworks. That's what I did, works like a champ.
Quote from: 118811 on June 14, 2012, 11:57:26 AM
My mechanic stated with quite certainty that my carb issue IS more than bad gas buildup.....he says last time (cleaned up the carbs) ....there were fragments which he
believes to be from the diaphragm of the fuel pump...?
My question is a new fuel pump or get a rebuild kit?
rebuild kit for sure. a whole pump is very pricey. and the only things that can fail or not function properly or break down are the gaskets, diaphragm, and check valves, all of which come in a rebuild kit which is crazy cheap in comparison to a new pump, and extremely easy to replace.
the only way you'd want a whole new pump is if the inside of the pump is insanely corroded for some very strange reason and can't be cleaned out enough to get rid of all potential particles falling off into the fuel
A whole new pump is $27....
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/mikuni-vacuum-fuel-pump-square-fuel-pumps (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/mikuni-vacuum-fuel-pump-square-fuel-pumps)
Quote from: DesmoTull on June 14, 2012, 01:50:20 PM
A whole new pump is $27....
http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/mikuni-vacuum-fuel-pump-square-fuel-pumps (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/products/fuel-carbs/mikuni-vacuum-fuel-pump-square-fuel-pumps)
<-- insert foot in mouth
I swear I looked it up the other day and saw like $150, as compared to a couple bux for a rebuild kit. guess I was wrong, ignore my above comment haha
edit: I was right! I just looked it up again and a whole new pump is $154.99 from Ducati Omaha online. I see the one you posted is "a suitable replacement" though. well, thats what we're all here for :p
I personally would still just get a rebuild kit for the OEM hexagonal pump
Thanks Guy's for your opinions!!
Ducati Honolulu quoted me $169 + tax...and had to be ordered from Italy.
I am leaning to the rebuild... [thumbsup]
Quote from: motoxmann on June 14, 2012, 03:04:18 PM
I personally would still just get a rebuild kit for the OEM hexagonal pump
To each his own. I go with what Chris Kelly recommends. [beer]
Chris is one of the guys who's opinion I take as solid gold. Same goes for LT, Bruce Meyers, Eric Colbath, and a few others in the New England area.
DesmoTull
The fuel pump (square one) from CACycle
Is it direct bolt on or is fabrication needed?
Thanks
Quote from: 118811 on June 14, 2012, 03:21:47 PM
Thanks Guy's for your opinions!!
Ducati Honolulu quoted me $169 + tax...and had to be ordered from Italy.
I am leaning to the rebuild... [thumbsup]
If you decide on a rebuild stay away from the Winderosa kit and go with genuine Mikuni.
Quote from: 118811 on June 14, 2012, 04:45:46 PM
DesmoTull
The fuel pump (square one) from CACycle
Is it direct bolt on or is fabrication needed?
Thanks
The mounting holes are different. If you want it to be real solid, you might want to fab something up. I just screwed it down on 2 side, and it's mounted well enough for me right now. Might try to clean it up better over the winter.
[popcorn]
I decided to go with the OEM Mikuni rebuild kit.
4th year with my bike now. Stock carbs and never had any issues. I've tried Sunoco 94 octane but really didnt notice or feel any difference other that the cost. I use regular fuel, and toss in a storage additive in the winter. Heck I dont even drain the carbs. Touch wood, but this procedure has been working well for me.
Did all early Monsters come with a petcock? I dont have any shut off on my bike. 2000 M750.
Quote from: COP TZR on June 17, 2012, 06:04:45 PM
4th year with my bike now. Stock carbs and never had any issues. I've tried Sunoco 94 octane but really didnt notice or feel any difference other that the cost. I use regular fuel, and toss in a storage additive in the winter. Heck I dont even drain the carbs. Touch wood, but this procedure has been working well for me.
Did all early Monsters come with a petcock? I dont have any shut off on my bike. 2000 M750.
My mechanic is sure that gas is not my current issue....he says most likely that the fuel pump membrane has staeted breaking up and lodging up in the float bowl holding it open & flooding.
I don't have a fuel shut off valve or petcock either.
But I have one on order. I too will be going to reg. gas 8)
Disintegrating components in the fuel system are a sure cause of sticking floats.
And the pump is on the carb side of the system.
Great you are getting a manual fuel tap.
Be sure to take some good pics and write up a DIY for the pump rebuild! [thumbsup]
I don't believe that we have one for that. I couldn't find one anyway...
Quote from: 118811 on June 17, 2012, 06:13:46 PM
My mechanic is sure that gas is not my current issue....he says most likely that the fuel pump membrane has staeted breaking up and lodging up in the float bowl holding it open & flooding.
I don't have a fuel shut off valve or petcock either.
But I have one on order. I too will be going to reg. gas 8)
where are you getting the tap from ? Where do you mount it? pics?
cheers!