Ducati Monster Forum

Moto Board => Tutorials => Topic started by: mangeldbug on June 22, 2012, 05:05:46 AM



Title: How To: APTC Clutch Swap in a Monster M750
Post by: mangeldbug on June 22, 2012, 05:05:46 AM
My M750Sie is a great bike, with a KILLER clutch pull, even with the aftermarket easier pull clutch slave cylinder (one of the first mods I did when I bought the bike in 2006).

My husband had read a thread on the DMF where someone had swapped in a non-APTC (Adler Power Torque Clutch) clutch from an 800SS for their stock APTC clutch because they didn't like it.  He then of course began to wonder if he could swap in the APTC clutch from the other small engine case Ducatis to the M750Sie engine.  (I think maybe he was tired of hearing me complain about Ducati-induced carpal tunnel....)

Donors for consideration were
M696
M620
MTS620
M695
M800
basically any of the small case bikes that came stock with the APTC.

We found that Ducati sold the APTC clutch as a Ducati Performance item before they became the stock clutch on the bikes from the factory.  It was put on my wish list, as it was pretty pricey, but when I was ready to buy last year I found out that they didn't sell the kit anymore.

We checked Ebay over the winter and found nothing, except for a whole engine out of a Multi 620 - wasn't really wanting the whole engine - so we let it slip by.

Then a week ago my husband, on a whim, checked Ebay for some clutches and found 4! M696 Clutch Packs and one place selling the DPM Kit for $599.

He bought the clutch from a wrecked 2009 M696 that was mislabeled a 695 - it included the plates, nut, pushrod, etc.
Got it from Pinwall Cycle - nice people.  They were the ones in Ohio that had the whole MTS620 Engine for sale over the winter.  Here is the picture from the Ebay ad.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/EbayPIcture.jpg)

To get the side cover off simply remove the sensor wire from the plug on the front of the case cover.  Then remove all the 5mm allen head bolts (mmmmmm.....stainless bolt kit).  Take off the oil fill cap and insert a long screwdriver or some other tool into the oil filler and lever against the oil pump bolt that you can see under the opening.  The cover should pry away easily.

OEM Ducati uses thinset RTV gasket maker, not paper gaskets, or at least that's what was on my bike.  This time around he ordered a CA Cycleworks gasket to make the job less messy in the future (good thing he did).

http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-oil-clutch-engine-cover-gasket-gaskets (http://www.ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-oil-clutch-engine-cover-gasket-gaskets)

Once the cover is off - one person can clean off the old RTV (me) while another removes the old clutch (husband).

(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-08211324.jpg)

Here is the OEM clutch on the M750Sie - nice black basket.  The bolts holding the springs are 4mm socket head - DO NOT STRIP THEM!  Make sure the tool is fully seated before you try to break the bolt free.  It shouldn't be too tight.

Once you have all the pressure plate springs out, pull out the pressure plate and plates.  Set them aside on something clean.

OEM Pressure plate and clutch pack removed.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-08211809.jpg)

You then need to flatten the lock washer to be able to undo the nut on the clutch basket.  This is a 32mm nut with a factory torque rating of 130ft-lb or so.  It might also have red Loctite on it, so I recommend an impact wrench to take it off!!

Use your handy-dandy clutch holding tool, and get that nut removed.  

(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-08212215.jpg)

The clutch basket should then slide off, don't tilt it down or the bushing in the center will fall out on your dirty floor.  There is also a tapered spacer washer behind the clutch basket.  The tapered end goes towards the engine.  Our new clutch came with one as well, so we used it.  It also came with the nut and safety washer.

Nope this won't work!  The old style clutch tool won't work on the ramps of the APTC Clutch.  Ducati does sell a clutch holder, but we managed to figure out a fix.  My husband simply had me stand on the rear brake as he tightened down the nut (remember to use red Loctite), and put it at the recommended torque.  
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-08214152.jpg)

You put the plates in with the pressure plate as a pack.  If you get the clutch from the factory it comes with the pressure plate and pack assembled with a nice set of holding tools: (Stock Image from DPM KIT)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/IMG_0306.jpg)
The inner plate could come out, but the outer plate would stay with the clutch pack - that would have been nice.

As it was, we had to hand feed/align each plate separately into the grooves while working the basket into the APTC ramps.  It wasn't that bad really.  Note the Arrow and the Dimple in the clutch basket (top of photo) - these must be lined up.  There is an arrow on the back side of the basket that corresponds to the dimple.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-09102405.jpg)

You can see in the above picture the three (3) pressure relief springs that push back against the pressure plate to help actuate the slipper action when you release the clutch.  Make sure these are in place on their posts before you put on the inner pressure plate with the throw-out bearing.

Here the center pressure plate is in place.  
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-08225309.jpg)

After the initial install, I found it was almost impossible to get the bike into neutral.  It turns out we had the last pressure plate installed incorrectly, so after some research we fixed it the next day. The last friction plate has to be in the offset fingers for the clutch to work properly.  He was glad he bought a gasket since he had to take the cover off this morning to fix the plate.  He knew that he might have put it on wrong and needed someone with an APTC bike service manual to confirm proper alignment:
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/falcn12/Monster%20Senna/APTC%20Install/2012-06-09102435.jpg)

Note the pressure plate is not pressed in here and is being held away from the friction plate by the relief springs.

Install the center plate - the APTC clutch has 5mm socket head bolts for holding it in place.  Do not over tighten these and snap off the basket fingers - just barely snug (5 ft-lb).

Take the cleaned case cover and put a light coat of waterproof motorcycle grease on the lip, then slap the gasket on there.  It will be held in place by the grease and that will help it to not stick and also seal faster.  Coat the other side of the gasket lightly with grease as well.  Assemble the cover, plug back in the sensor and take it for a spin!
(Clean off any oil that dripped out).

The only part about the swap that we were worried about was the primary gear being the same.  It's great that Ducati is modular with their engines - things fit perfectly!

So if you have an older small case Ducati and the clutch pull is giving you horrible Carpal Tunnel - get yourself an APTC clutch and swap it in!  With the addition of the lower effort clutch slave cylinder you will have a much lighter clutch pull than stock!!

The friction zone catches right as you start to release the clutch on the M750Sie - just the way I like it.  I have read people complain that the stock clutch on the M696 doesn't catch until the lever is almost all the way out.

Ive only ridden my Monster a few times since the swap, but here are some initial impressions.  Clutch pull is MUCH friendlier. Its more like a "normal" bike, and not the major forearm workout it was before!  However, Ive ridden a 696, and it is not as easy as that, but that might be because we did not change anything at the lever.  I dont know if I will, it is so much easier after this swap I dont think I will need to do any more changes.  Engine braking is MUCH reduced.  The only time I notice any engine braking is in first gear when I am slowing from a high speed and coming to a stop.  My Monster had a ridiculous amount of engine braking before, and skidding the rear wheel happened frequently during downshifts when going into a slow corner.  All in all, the clutch we found on Ebay was less than $100, the maintenance was very straight forward and took only a few hours with no %$*&! moments, and I am very happy with the results.  Well worth it in my opinion!


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