The bike has 36,000 KMS with termi pipes, open air box with DP air filter, not sure about the ECU though (how do I check?).
It just had its 36k service (valve adjust, spark plugs, timing belt, etc.)
This signal lights will not work unless the bike is in idle or under 3,000 rpm.
The fuel light comes on and then goes off when I know there's gas in the tank.
These two problems seem to go away after 30 minutes of riding. In addition, the bike seems to ride different when these electrical problems go away. IE. lower idle speed and the bike just sounds different (better), but the bike still runs rough especially at even throttle.
Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
UPDATE**
The bike battery is now dead. This was a new battery I put in a couple weeks ago, but now it's down to 4 volts.
I'm not sure if this is related to my flasher issue.
Guesses anyone? Thanks.
It is hard to tell over the internet, but my first guess would be to look for a loose or missing ground wire. Try removing the battery and test the voltage again. If it recovers some and/or it can be charged back up then there is something placing a load/drain on it as opposed to just a bad battery. When the battery is out, take a resistance reading from the pos to neg battery cables. I don't know what it 'should' be but if it is near zero then something has shorted. Does the bike have a power commander?
Charge the battery, then load test. If the battery is good reinstall. No good replace. Check all grounds, particularly the engine ground. Then check charging rate at 3000K. Under 13.5 volts you are undercharging, over 14.5 volts you are overcharging. Then check for a parasitic draw (drain). Key off, disconnect the negative cable and go from the negative battery cable to the negative terminal on the battery with an ammeter that reads in amps, or use an inductive ammeter. More than .5 miliamps is a parasitic draw.
The draw was 0.3 amp and the charging was at 12.3 volts at 3,000 rpm. So... it's a charging issue. I've followed the electrosport fault guide and it seems that the stator is to blame. 0.5 ohm or lower at all three connection at the yellow wires from the stator. I did not do the V ac test with the bike running tho...
any thoughts?
Measure AC volts. Stators rarely go. .3 amps is quite a bit. That would cause a totally dead battery in a day and a bit, no start quicker.
Ok, I checked the stator output at 5k rpm and they are all around 50 - 60 volts.
I've also check the parasitic draw, it's at 206 milliamp and I notice it jumps to 212 milliamps with the imobilizer LED on.
S4rs draw with key off (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncmoH5khL04&feature=plcp#)
I've also pulled the fuses to see which one will stop the draw. The only one that will stop the draw is the 30a fuse by the battery.
now I'm not so sure if the problem is with the stator or the regulator... ???
50-60 volts is plenty. Voltage reg. or something else pulling the voltage down?
edit: do all of the connectors look clean?
Forgot, you have an immobilizer. Drain probably is acceptable. Either way, it wouldn't drain a good battery that fast. Ducati has no spec. Anyone measure theirs on an S4? How did the load test on the battery go?
Quote from: Bill in OKC on June 27, 2012, 07:23:24 PM
50-60 volts is plenty. Voltage reg. or something else pulling the voltage down?
edit: do all of the connectors look clean?
Yep, pay special attention to the cheesy connection between the stator and regulator. That can be your problem. Recheck voltage. If you can start the bike do a voltage drop test. This is for a car, but it will work for your bike voltage drop starting circuit (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIRnZNrBOw0#) If all else is good I would suspect the regulator.
I've checked the rectifier connections and it looks fine, but I sprayed it with some contact cleaner anyway.
The voltage drop is not too bad, around 10-11v during start.
I'm starting to lean towards that the rectifier is at fault.
I wonder if this is also the cause of my flasher issue in my OP?
Might. Low voltage can cause all kinds of electronic weirdness. Unfortunately you won't know until the battery and charging system are up to snuff.
Quote from: axle167 on June 28, 2012, 08:55:03 PM
I wonder if this is also the cause of my flasher issue in my OP?
One other thing you might try if you have not already - when the battery is out/disconnected - measure resistance from the negative battery cable to the engine case and to the frame, it should be near zero. The flasher and gas gauge issue seems like a bad ground but odd things can also happen if the battery is bad - low voltage like howie said.
edit: another thing to check is the small ground wire that screws to the ecu. I left mine off one time and odd things ensued...
Update:
The rectifier is now replaced with an updated OEM part and it's now charging fine.
Since this fix, my flasher issue has also disappear... Weird...
Thank you for your inputs, much appreciated!